Fairweather, Carpé Ridge, and “Sabine.” On June 5 Ton Hoeneveld, Roel Mulder and I were flown to the beach just southeast of Cape Fairweather. It took us eight days to transport our loads through the woods and over the Fairweather Galcier to Base ...

Colorado, St. Mary’s Glacier—On July 26, a party of ten boys from the Thornton, Colorado Church of Christ were on an outing in the area of St. Mary’s Glacier, 12 miles northwest of Idaho Springs, Colorado. The group was hiking up the glacier when ...

FALL THROUGH SNOW INTO STREAM CAVITY British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine, HeadwallKarl Klassen (24) and a companion were climbing the headwall on Mt. Assiniboine on 18 July 1979 by the scree and snow patches to the right of the main...

Ridge of Gargoyles, The Turret and Upper Gargoyle. First ascents of The Turret (6350 feet) and Upper Gargoyle (6400 feet) were made by Roy Etten, Kent Heathershaw and me on November 5, 1967 and June 9, 1968 respectively. These rock peaks are the h...

Dhaulagiri I, Ascents and Tragedy. After completing his ascent of Annapurna I, Carlos Carsolio, a Mexican who has climbed eleven of the 8000-meter peaks, joined Norbert Joos’s predominantly Swiss team on May 11. On the 14th, he, Joos, and four of ...

Sermelikfjord, Southwest Greenland. In June and July the Austrians Toni Dürnberger, Ernst Herzinger, and Kurt Gilg and the Germans Stefan Rausch, Alois Häusl, Adolph Dosch, and Karlfried Wasel climbed in the previously unexplored mountains above t...

Mount Adams, Lava Glacier Headwall. During mid-September Half Zantop and I decided to take another look at the Lava Glacier Headwall, which to the first ascent party (A.A.J., 1961, p. 366) was a veritable "death trap.” We reached the Lava Basin by...

Grand Teton, Northeast Buttress variation. On the north flank of the east ridge of the Grand Teton, the substantial expanse of rock lying between the northeast couloir and the north face is divided into two separate buttresses by a nearly vertical...

Salluyo and Other Peaks. A French expedition of sixteen established Base Camp on July 12 above Lake Chocñacota at 16,100 feet. A way was reconnoitered on July 14 to Camp I south of “Flor de Roca” at 17,725 feet. On July 16 Jean-Marie Galmiche, Pat...

Pucaraju, Ascents. It was reported that, in 1995, Cordier and Maynet climbed La Princesse au Petit Pois (TD) on the 300-meter south face of Pucaraju (5090m) on a gully line immediately to the right of the 1995 route Hot Line. In 1996, Abramowski a...

Iowa Mountaineers. The club celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1964 and sponsored its 34th major outing or expedition without a single fatality or hospital accident. The annual banquet in April was attended by 140 members from six states and prese...

Dharamsura (White Sail), Southwest Ridge, P 20,300, and Papsura, Southwest Ridge, Kulu. We left England by air in two groups, having hacked down our equipment to within the normal accompanied baggage weight allowed. Food was bought in the Kulu val...

Salcantay, East Ridge, and Soray Attempt. We set up Base Camp at 14,750 feet below Palcay Pass. On June 25 we had to climb down into a crevasse and up the other side. We bivouacked at 17,000 feet on the east ridge of Salcantay. The next day we con...

Ancohuma, Gorra de Hielo, Viluyo I and II, Hancopiti IV and VII. Our expedition established Base Camp on the east of the Illampu-An- cohuma group. (See map in A.A.J., 1979, p. 250.) We spent 15 days in the region climbing alpine style. We made the...

International Women’s Climbing Meet, Britain. The Women’s International Rock Climbing Meet, sponsored by the British Mountaineering Council, took place in Britain between June 12 and 26. Representatives from Denmark (1), Norway (2), Sweden (1), Fr...

Brammah Peak. The expedition of Tohokeiryukai was led by Miss Kei Ohara, who was accompanied by Nagamasa Yamada, Hisabumi Tomino, and Kaoru Yoshino. Matsel was their first objective but it was changed because of bad weather and the group turned to...

Lhotse Shar. A Japanese expedition from Waseda University made an attempt on Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet). They were Hisao Yoshikawa, leader; Teruo Matsuura, Masahiko Iguchi, Yoshio Hamano, Noburu Kaburaki, Takaaki Narukawa, Aoi Murai, Tatsuo Sato, S...

Dhaulagiri, Second Ascent. A 12-man expedition from Doshisha University, led by Tokufu Ota and Shoji Imanari, made the second ascent of Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet). From Camp VI at 25,600 feet on the Swiss northeast-ridge route of 1960, Tetsuji Kawad...

The Citadel, Last Cry of the Butterfly. Marcin Tomaszewski, David Kaszlikowski, and I, supported by the Polish Climbing Association (PZA), arrived in the Kichatnas on April 18, in perfect weather. We landed on the sunny Shadows Glacier, looked aro...

Near Tucson, Arizona. On 9 August 1948 John D. Anderson, a sheriff’s deputy, was assisting in the rescue of a 15-year-old boy who had become isolated on a clifï face the day before. Anderson had been lowered 500 feet down the 1000-foot cliff to th...