Ganesh II Attempt. A six-man Korean expedition led by Park Jong-Tae hoped to climb Ganesh II by its west ridge from the south face of Ganesh IV, the same route attempted unsuccessfully by Swiss in the autumn of 1984. The high point of 6600 meters ...
Dhaulagiri IV. The Japanese Gumma expedition was led by Fumio Kobayashi. After establishing Camp IV on April 26 at 20,300 feet on the Austrian route on this 25,135-foot peak, Takajiro Matsui fell ill and died on April 30 from pulmonary edema. The ...
Erkimkang, North Face, and Khatung Kang, Ascents. In mid-August I went to the Langtang region, north of Kathmandu, where I retraced the steps of Bill Tilman, who visited the area in the late 1940s. Like Tilman, I made a base at the yersa (temporar...
P 6038, Gangotri Area. A 19-member Bulgarian party was led by Vasil Gurev. Three camps were made on unclimbed P 6038 (19,810 feet). On October 13, three women: Petia Kolcheva, Svetla Anachkova and Svetlana Toshevska and five men: Kamen Kolchev, Va...
LEWIS S. SOUTHWICK1888-1981Lewis S. Southwick died on December 18, 1981 at the age of 93. An American Alpine Club member since 1944, he resided in Shelter Island, New York. He had made ascents in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, the Canadian Rocki...
Hombori Mountains, new route. From November 20 to January 14 my brother Michael and I visited the Hand of Fatima in the Hombori Mountains. On Kaga Pamari we established a new route up the center of the southwest face, completing the line in the fi...
Bandaka. After not receiving permission for Udren Zom, the expedition of the Mountaineering Association of Fukushima Prefecture turned hastily to Bandaka (22,450 feet). On August 12 Rikio Mizoi, Masaru Mizukami and Akira Hashiyada reached the top ...
Kangchenjunga Southwest Face. We hoped to make the first American ascent of the southwest face of Kangchenjunga. We were Rob Gustke and Bill Roos, leaders, John Bercaw, Jeff Brinck, George Gardner, Frank Coffey, Craig Miller, Gunnar Paulsen and I....
Minapin Attempt. French climbers led by Pierre Feuillet failed to climb Minapin. They tried the north ridge and then the north face and west ridge but found both routes very dangerous because of séracs and avalanches.
Chichiccapac and Other Peaks, Cordillera Carabaya. I joined Steve McAndrews of the American Andean Ski Expedition and Ian Harverson of the Australian Andean Expedition for a short visit to the Carabaya in mid-October. Our approach was a direct eig...
Pilot Peak, Lerrouy Island, and Mount Jules Verne, Pourquoi Pas Island, 1991. Our expedition traveled to Grahamland in the yacht Pelagic. We were American Skip Novak, Briton Hamish Laird, Kenyan Julia Crossley, Irishwoman Tara Machey, Belgian Andr...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL FAILURE, KNOT PARTED Washington, Tohasket CragsOn July 24, 1989, Gary Hickenbottom (39) plunged 12 meters to the ground, breaking both legs and a heel, when his rappel ropes parted. (Source: Gary Hickenbottom)AnalysisI...
Pik Kommunizma, Pamirs. With successes on the 7000-meter peaks in the Pamirs now becoming commonplace, I have only two reasons to report our experiences. The first is to emphasize how accommodating the Soviets have been in assisting foreign mounta...
Vilcanota and Cordillera de Caravaya. In July 1955 the Italians, 72- year-old Piero Ghiglione and Francesco Zaltron, ascended Vilcanota, 18,521 feet, by the southeast face. [All altitudes are those given by Ghiglione. It is the opinion of members ...
Asgard, North Tower, West Face Attempt. On July 7, Swiss Jean-Michel Zweiacker, Denis Burdet, Cédric Choffat and Pierre Robert began an attempt on the west face of Asgard. They tried a line between “Valkyrie” and “Hyperborea.” They climbed ten pit...
Pumori Pre-Monsoon Attempt, Ascent and Tragedy. Two Germans and an Austrian led by Christof Drechsel attempted to climb Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) by the normal route. They reached a high point of 6300 meters on March 24. Some time later, a...
Chimbulak Area, Zailisky Ala Tau, Tien Shan. Steve Goodwin, Steve Lenartowicz, Eric Pirnie, Norman Rodd, my wife Moira Snadden and I attended the Soviet International Camp at Chimbulak in the late winter of 1988. The mountains of the Chimbulak are...
Rocky Mountains of CanadaLake Louise was named for Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll, who died December 3rd, 1939, at the age of ninety-one. She was a daughter of Queen Victoria, her husband, the Marquis of Lorne, becoming Governor-General of Can...
Wyoming, Wind River Range, Mt. Sacajawea—On July 20, 1955, Thea Welsh, Tony Prauses (34), and Damon Phinney (27) left their camp in the Titcomb Lake Valley below Fremont Peak at 6:00 a.m. to climb Mt. Sacajawea. Their route was a steep couloir up ...
The Cathedral Group, Various Ascents. The north face of the Middle Teton was the scene of some new route activity in early August. Buffalo Gals (III 5.10), an excellent four-pitch crack climb on good rock, was climbed by Ron Johnson and Renny Jack...