Kamet and Abi Gamin. An all-Indian expedition made a remarkable record in Garhwal in 1955, accomplishing the second ascent of Kamet (25,447 feet) and the third ascent of Abi Gamin (24,130 feet). The party under the direction of Major Narendra D. J...
Middle Howser Tower, East Face. Al Spero and I started at a high point in the snow almost directly below the summit and angled slightly left. Many flakes and ledges that cannot be seen from a distance make the climbing quite straightforward, excep...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park: (1) On July 10, 1952 John H. Tallmadge (21) said he was going to climb Hallet Peak and Flat Top Mountain the same day. Employees at Bear Lake Lodge advised against this because of the length of the climb, and...
FALLING SNOW BLOCK, FALL ON ROCK AND ICE, INADEQUATEBELAY, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn September 1, 1992, two Americans, Doug S. and Mike V., set out to climb the East Ridge of Mount Temple. Early fall snows had left the ...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. On September 16, Oscar Cardiach and I arrived at Base Camp at 4700 meters below the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri after crossing Dhampus and French Passes. There we met two French expeditions, one civilian and one military, and...
Surihuiri and Minaspata, Cordillera Chila. I was in overall charge of the Japan Inner Amazon Expedition and Ichiyo Muko was leader. Ko Hagiwara and Kohichi Miura entered the Cordillera Chila, east of Coropuna and north of Ampato, the main and long...
Bhilangna Valley, Satling peaks, first ascents. A British team made several first ascents in the Satling group of peaks at the head of the Bhilangna valley in early spring 2002. With rock as good as Chamonix granite, virgin walls up to 600m high, ...
Gangchua, Kinnaur. An Indian army team led by Major R.J.S. Dhillon climbed Gangchua (6288 meters, 20,630 feet) in September.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Ganchenpo Attempt. Six Britons and an Irishman led by Ray Delaney attempted to climb Ganchenpo (7455 meters, 24,459 feet) by its west ridge from the north. They got to a high point of 6000 meters on April 5.Elizabeth Hawley
BOLT HANGER "FAILURE" FALL ON ROCKWashington, Index, Upper Town WallWhile climbing the route “Calling Wolfgang” on the Upper Town Wall at the Sport Wall area I took a 40-50 fall nearly hitting the ground. My fall was the result of not one but two ...
German Expedition, 1936. A new attempt on Nanga Parbat will be made this year led by Karl Wien, and backed by Fritz Bechtold, Assistant Leader of the last Nanga Parbat expedition, and Paul Bauer, leader of the two Bavarian attempts on Kangchenjunga.
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTOregon, Marsupial CragsOn November 14, Aaron Seemen (32) was climbing a 5.7, -mixed multipitch climb with a frequent rock climbing partner, Natalie Paden. He was leading pitch-4...
Bhrikuti base camp rubbish. On arrival at base camp the British-Australian expedition was dismayed to find copious amounts of rubbish strewn around this pristine area. They collected a 25kg compressed-gas bottle and about nine porter-loads of tras...
Three O’Clock Rock, Darrington Area. In April Tom Saunders and I completed a new four-pitch route on this formation, “Tidbits.” Somewhat left of the Big Tree 1 route, we climbed a dike on an apron below several large roofs. Near the top of the sla...
Balch Camp Flake, Flicker of Time Arête and The Passionate Life. On February 23, David Cotter and I climbed the east (right-hand) arête of the huge Balch Camp Flake, naming it the Flicker of Time Arête (5.9 AO). We started on the bolt ladder of th...
Peak 10552, Sentinel Turret, Found Arrow Spire. A second pinnacle on the east side of Sentinel Turret, about 300 feet below its summit, was found and climbed on August 26 by Ted Vaill and Brad Merry. Although it overhangs on all sides, a moderate ...
FALL ON ROCK, BOULDERING ALONE, NO SPOTTER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett CreekOn July 22, 1994, Debbie Gruneberg (19) was bouldering near the July campsite by Hallett Creek on the North Inlet Trail. She slipped and fell 20 feet, ...
A.A.C., Southern California Section.Section members gathered in July for a meeting at the Malibu branch of the Los Angeles County Library, home of one of the Club’s five branch libraries. The core consists of over 3000 volumes of mountaineering li...
Mt. Collier. 1903 first ascent by G. Collier, his brother and C. Kaufmann. Collier’s entry in Kaufmann’s book merely states that they went “along part of the arête joining the west end of Victoria to Mt. Whyte.” This is the only record of this asc...
Mount Michelson and Tugak Peak, Brooks Range. On June 6 Alaskan Robin Wilson and I took off from the Eskimo village of Kaktovik on Barter Island on the Beaufort Sea and flew over the still snowy Arctic tundra for the Brooks Range. After 40 minutes...