Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kashmir, Kolahoi Glacier

Kolahoi Glacier. Cashbrair (19,000 feet), an unclimbed peak in the Kashmir valley was climbed by eleven students of Punjab Agricultural University under the leadership of Dr. S. S. Dosanj. The peak adjoins the Kolahoi Glacier. An army team led by ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ngojumba-Ri

Ngojumba-Ri. The Alpine Club of Meiji University sent out Misao Watanabe, leader; Susumu Takahashi, climbing leader; Yoshihiro Fujita, Shinichi Hirano, Takeo Odaka, Masanao Kobayashi, Masuru Irisawa, Teiyu Nagao and Naomi Uemura. They reached Namc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Yala Peak

Yala Peak, Langtrang Himal and Mardi Himal, Annapurna Group. Two climbing trips, organized by Sporthaus Schuster, went to Nepal. (There were six trips to other parts of the world.) From October 3 to 27 a group of 25 climbers was in the Langtrang H...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, North Ridge Variation

Kichatna Spire, North Ridge variation. On June 6 Eddie Phay, Jed Brown, and I had Paul Roderick fly us onto the Shadows Glacier, racked-up and ready to go. Nineteen hours after landing, we were on top of Kichatna Spire. Our route followed the orig...


Accident Reports ANAM
Sierra Nevada, California: (3) Mt. Humphrey

Sierra Nevada, California: (3) Mt. Humphrey. A party of five, having climbed Mt. Humphrey and descended from the summit area, were taking off the rope at the top of a scree chimney. Harry Abraham (27), leader of the party, was coiling the rope; ot...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure—Anchor Came Away, Inadequate Protection, New Jersey, Mount Tammany, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area

RAPPEL FAILURE-ANCHOR CAME AWAY, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Jersey, Mount Tammany, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation AreaSteve Raible (22) fell about 120 feet to his death while rappelling from a route on Mount Raible and climbing partner Todd ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Thui II, Hindu Raj

Thui II, Hindu Raj. Our expedition was composed of Nick Tritton, leader, Chris Griffiths, Chris Lloyd, Captain Inam ul Haq, liaison officer, and me. After a two-week delay in Rawalpindi waiting for flying weather, we flew to Gilgit on July 13. On ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Pour Miss Cynthia

Pour Miss Cynthia, by Charles Gos. 8 vo., pp. 186. Neuchatel : Attinger, 1934. Price Fr. 3.50.A negligible storiette with a climax that would tax the credulity of even a non-climber. Far better reading is an article comprising the last third of th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, The Needles, Big Belt Mountains

The Needles, Big Belt Mountains. The Needles are located on the eastern side of the Big Belt Mountains and can be reached by a private-access road of Bill Galts. This seldom visited area saw much climbing activity in the summer of 1986. Over a doz...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Cotter, North Face

Mount Cotter, North Face. In June Tony Qamar, Marek Glogoczowski and I climbed this steep 1000-foot wall to the north summit. The climb from a distance appeared to be at least half artificial, but we only used aid in two places. The first was a lo...


Book Reviews AAJ
Regards vers l'Annapurna

Regards vers I’Annapurna, by Maurice Herzog and Marcel Ichac. Introductions by Lucien Devies and Maurice Herzog. 84 pages of illustrations, with 12 pages of commentary. Grenoble and Paris: B. Arthaud, 1951.This excellent picture book in color is, ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Teton Range, Wyoming: (1) Symmetry Spire, St. John Massif

Teton Range, Wyoming: (1) Symmetry Spire, St. John Massif. In mid-June 1947, a climber, Hans Breu, was attempting one of the cliffs in this district with a companion, George Senner. Breu decided to climb a more difficult pitch than his companion f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Nicaragua, Monte Cuisaltepe

Monte Cuisaltepe. On November 2, William T. Hunter and I made a new route on the west buttress of Monte Cuisaltepe near Los Cocos. We used no protection on this 5.5 climb. Our plans to climb the south face were thwarted by unprotectable, overhangi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary

Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, some of the routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] Summer 2007 never really set up on the coast, with only short intermittent periods of settled sunny weathe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Lady Macbeth, Macbeth Group, Purcells

Mount Lady Macbeth, Macbeth Group, Purcells. Taking advantage of a break in the rainy weather, my wife Gretchen and I drove 9½ miles up the improved logging road along the north side of Glacier Creek on July 31. Leaving the car at about 3700 feet ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Dobani

Dobani. Isao Ikeuchi and I climbed Dobani (20,158 feet), 15 miles southeast of Rakaposhi, on June 9. Each of us carried one big sack during the expedition, limiting our equipment and food, but this was an advantage since it made it inexpensive. On...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Eisenhower from Tower Lake

Mount Eisenhower from Tower Lake. Although Mount Eisenhower presents a high rock-climbing challenge, the only route on its northern side prior to our visit was that of the first ascent by Professor A. P. Coleman in 1884. On August 3, Jamie Fitzger...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No Hard Hat, Inexperience, Ontario, Bon Echo Provincial Park

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEOntario, Bon Echo Provincial ParkAt 1230 on May 30, 1987, Francis F. was leading a Class 5.6 route on the cliffs at Bon Echo above Mazinaw Lake. He lost his grip, and fell about ten met...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Attempt on Uruashraju and Ascent of Huascarán

Attempt on Uruashraju and Ascent of Huascarán. Timothy K. Griffin and I attempted Uruashraju (18,815 feet) via the south ridge, which was climbed by Giobbi and Mauri in 1966. Leaving Base Camp at the head of the Quebrada Rurec on July 13, we place...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Lebanon

Lebanon. Anderson Bakewell writes of climbing 8620-ft. Mt. Sannine in December 1947.