Jordan, climbing access threat. Di Taylor and I discovered the climbing potential of Wadi Rum in 1984 and soon extended our explorations across the country, finding more climbing areas, treks, canyons, and caves. I wrote in Summit 26,2002 about th...
East Fuller Butte, Southern Yosemite Direct. In late summer, Rick Cassam, Brandt Didden and I spent three days on this face in the Sierra National Forest. The route, Southern Yosemite Direct (V 5.10 A3), follows the southernmost line up the wall, ...
RAPPEL ERROR, NO BACKUPAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel MountainOn March 11, 1993, two climbers, both 22 years old, with several years experience, decided to take advantage of unseasonably warm weather to climb “Gooseberry,” a moderate six-pitch r...
Dunagiri, local access problems and an ascent. A Korean expedition had full clearance from Delhi to climb this famous 7066m peak west of Changabang and the Nanda Devi Inner Sanctuary rim. Arriving in the area during August the Uttaranchal Forest A...
Swargarohini I. This small but difficult peak has been attracting mountaineers for decades. J.T.M. Gibson and other parties attempted it from many sides. Eight mountaineering instructors from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering climbed the virgi...
McGill Outing Club. The club’s 1973 activities ranged as widely as in the past, with perhaps an increased emphasis on cross-country skiing. The club has established an annual cross-country ski event to encourage its members to take up the sport an...
Uja Tirche Attempt. Bad weather and unseasonably heavy snowfall in July defeated a three-member Bombay expedition led by Vinay Hegde on Uja Tirche (6202 meters, 20,350 feet). They approached via the Sirvanch valley to the west. The mountain was fi...
Canadian Rockies, Winter Ice Activity. The 1996-1997 winter in the Canadian Rockies turned out to be perhaps the most prodigious season ever—not for the new route total (which was less than half of each of the previous three seasons), nor for the ...
Boquillas Canyon, Campanile Boquillas. In January, 1997, I soloed Campanile Boquillas (IV 5.10 A2), which ascends a 500-foot limestone tower on the right (Mexican) bank about one mile into the canyon. The route starts in a chimney on the left edge...
Staunings Alper, East Greenland. An eight-man Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Dionisi climbed in the region of the Vikingebrae in the Staunings Alper. They climbed Hjornespids (2770 meters, 9088 feet) on the Pyramid Glacier and made a traverse ...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). Our commercial expedition led by Briton Jonathan Pratt and me from the United States consisted of eleven climbers, of whom six reached the summit, and six trekkers, one of whom got to 6500 meters. We were of six nationa...
Annapurna IV, Winter Ascent. The Canadian Annapurna IV Winter Expedition climbed the 7525-meter, 24,688-foot mountain by the normal north-face route as training for this year’s Canadian Everest expedition. The leader was Gordon Smith and the other...
Punta Zanzi, North Face, 1980. On December 7, 1952 Luis Krahl, Ernesto Hoffman and Eduardo Meyer made the first ascent of Punta Zanzi, climbing the south ridge from Cerro Valdés. The second ascent did not take place until 1980 when from November 2...
Ak-Su and Kara-Su Valleys, Various Attempts and Ascents. As part of our Kyrgyzstan itinerary, Brady Van Matre and I traveled to the Karavshin region of the Pamir Alai mountains in early September and made camp in the Ak-Su valley. (There are many ...
California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan. On 30 May James McCarthy (35), Doug Tompkins, and Sandy Bill started the Nose of El Capitan during the afternoon. It was to be a fairly leisurely assault, as they did not expect to be down until perh...
Peak 4897, Sultan Basin. In May this sharply crested peak three miles north-northeast of Mount Stickney was climbed by Glen Watson, Preston Bonney, Monte Haun, Bob Hall and Kenn Carpenter. The South Fork of the Sultan River was reached by descendi...
Manang Mountaineering School. The 11th course began on August 13. This year there were three Nepalese instructors: Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa, Ang Tsering Sherpa and Musul Kazi Tamang. We Slovene instructors were Alenka Jamnik (f), Darja Jenko (f), Tomaz...
Hunza. Following a visit to the area by Pete Thompson and me in 1988, I returned for a second visit in 1989 with Andy Trull, Chris Lloyd-Rogers, Hilary Fouweather and Mick Wilcock. Our original intention of climbing in the Snow Lake area of the Hi...
Fairweather, Attempt on Southeast Ridge. The personnel of our expedition finally was made up of Leonard Cook, Mark Fields, Rich Bloom and Chris Carpenter. (I was injured fighting a fire with the Anchorage Fire Department and had to drop out.) Our ...
FALL ON MIXED ROCK AND SNOW AND CLIMBING UNROPED— British Columbia, Mt. Assiniboine Park, Mt. Assiniboine North Face. R. Chisholm (36), a competent climber, and L. Armitage were climbing on the north face of Mt. Assiniboine on July 2. The conditio...