HYPOTHERMIA, ALTITUDE SICKNESSWyoming, TetonsOn August 12 at 6:30 p.m., I was dispatched to and located Michael Widenbeck (17) at the northwest end of Surprise Lake. He was in a state of disorientation, hypothermia, and suffering from mountain sic...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite Vailey, El CapitanIn the afternoon of September 9, Russ Fields (29), Bob Dunahue (36), and Bill Hesse (27) reached Long Ledge on the Salathe Wall (35 pitches, Grade VI).Russ had the next lead...
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, West Ridge. Pasang Lhamu Chuli (7351 m), also known as Josamba 1 and Nangpai Gosum 1, was one of five new peaks opened for foreign expeditions in June, 1995. Its location is about five kilometers west-southwest of Cho Oyu. It w...
Montana, Glacier National Park, “Going-to-the-Sun” Mountain. The absence of David P. Wilson (21) was reported on the morning of 21 July when he did not appear for work. After waiting for him to return, it was decided to initiate a search at 10:00 ...
The Organ, Zion National Park. During a week with three spring snowstorms, members of the Memphis Mountaineers climbed a new route on the Organ which starts 50 feet left (west) of the major gully system on the southeast corner of the formation. Pi...
FALLING ICE-DISLODGED BY LEADER, POOR POSITION-BELAYERAlberta, Banff National Park, Weeping Wall, Center PillarOn December 21, J.R. (23) was belaying her husband who was leading up the second pitch of the Center Pillar area on the Weeping Wall in ...
Meru North, Second Ascent and Meru West, First Ascent. Our expedition was made up of Dr. Peter Haslinger, Dr. Peter Lengauer, Rudolf Wurzer, Karl Pfeifer, Julius Müller, Fritz Roth, Karl Reindl, Reinhard Streif, Konrad Scharnreiter, Peter Schiml, ...
Nalumasortoq, Non c’è Due Senza Tre. On May 25, Mario Manica (Italy), Giancarlo Ruffino (Italy), Francesco Vaudo (Italy), and Jèrome Arpin (France) established base camp on the shores of the Tasermiut Fjord, at the foot of Ulamertorssuaq. We set o...
Mt. Dickey, Move Your Ass and Your Mind Will Follow. We left for Alaska in April, with the goal of opening the northeast ridge of Mt. Dickey, a line that others, including French mountaineers, had previously attempted. Christophe Moulin had talked...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. Canadian Roger Marshall, Cynthia Cannell and American George Lawrence attempted Lhotse Shar by its southeast ridge. They made five camps above Base Camp, including an ice cave used by Marshall alone on October 20 and 21. Marsh...
Nuptse Attempt. On October 10, after four bivouacs, the two members, Italians Enrico Rosso and Fabrizio Manoni, reached 6700 meters on the south spur of Nuptse, previously attempted twice by Jeff Lowe. They abandoned the climb because of bad snow ...
FALL ON ICE—INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWashington, Mount ShuksanOn August 30, 1984, Hans Sebald (43) was descending Hell’s Highway on Mount Shuksan when he slipped and fell 16-18 meters before landing in a crevasse at the 2300 meter ...
Colque Cruz V and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of Jon Morgan, James Hall, Charles Halstead, Tim Dickinson and me as leader. In Malma we hired eight horses for the 16-kilometer trek to our 4825-meter-high Base Camp...
Mount Foraker. A group of four led by Steve van Meter climbed Foraker by its southeast ridge, which was first climbed in 1963, reaching the summit on July 14. At the same time a Japanese group, K. Sonehara, M. Inukai, Y. Abe, T. Momose and K. Yagu...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT PULLED OUT Colorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 1,1986, at the end of five days’ climbing in the Boulder area, Michael Stone (22) decided to try a lead harder than he had previously done, choosing Finger Crack (5.9+) on Elephant Buttr...
Batura and Nanga Parbat. On May 29 our Austrian expedition began a four-day approach from Aliabad in the Hunza valley over the 18-mile-long Muchiohul Glacier to Base Camp at 13,215 feet at the southern foot of Batura. We were to climb a new route ...
Puscanturpa Norte and Nevado Cuyoc. In June a four-man Italian team climbed a new variant on the most imposing part of the northwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (5,652m), between the 2000 French routes (AAJ 2001, pp. 284–6) Pasta Religion and Macana...
Paine Towers, Torre Sur and New Route on the Torre Central, South Face. On October 26, José Carlos Tamayo and I moved into the Italian Base Camp at 600 meters. Our first objective was to climb the Torre Sur by the north ridge, the first-ascent rou...
Lupgha Group, Batura Glacier. On August 19 Steve Goodman, Del and Steve Davis and I flew to Gilgit. The next day we hired a jeep to drive up the Karakoram Highway to Passu, about 50 kilometers from the Chinese border. We started with six porters a...
Fitz Roy, Canadian Route; Aguja Rafael Juarez, Comono; other firsts and new variations. There was excitement among the climbers at El Chalten in the fourth week of January 2005. The barometer was finally rising after three weeks of stormy weather....