Putha Hiunchuli. This expedition was a repeat of last year’s commercial expedition organized and promoted by the German Alpine Club. There were two groups; the first of 14 persons led by Siegfried Hupfauer climbed from October 7 to 27; the second ...
Sierra Club. Sierra Club mountaineers continued to enjoy the mountain wildernesses. The year was memorable for the achievements of a few and for great satisfaction for many. Club mountaineers watched the sun set from the summit of Mount Everest an...
Hamilton Lakes Dome, North Ridge. Having chosen an impossible line on Angel Wings and having succeeded in proving it impossible, TM Herbert and I cast our eyes across Hamilton Creek to the north ridge of Hamilton Lakes Dome or Peak 9770. This prom...
Cerro Bonete. Seven mountaineers from Mendoza and Buenos Aires explored and climbed in the area forming the provincial boundaries between Mendoza and San Juan in January. From the railroad station of Punta de Vacas they went into de Matienzo valle...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, scored a significant breakthrough in its 1970 climbing school results. The new format was laboriously formulated by Dick Laird, who headed the basic school with Ray Sheldon’s assistance. An opening night o...
Cran des Érables, Hot Salami and winter potential. At the end of December, Frédéric Maltais and I climbed a new route and probably made the first winter ascent of Cran des Érables, a cliff in the Hautes-Gorges Park, Quebec. To reach the cliff, we ...
Makalu Ascent and Tragedy. On September 10, Marcel Rüedi and I flew from Kathmandu to 2800 meters in the Barun valley. Three days later we got to Base Camp at 5400 meters below Makalu. We, with four other Swiss and Austrians, were members of a six...
P 5370, Tunshu Group, Cordillera Central. Two friends, Ruedi Merker and Magdalena Hohl, and I drove from Lima to Azulcocha on August 30. On September 2 we climbed Tatatunshu (17,241 feet) on easy, hard snow. In the afternoon the weather turned bad...
Attempt to reach Apostelens Tommelfinger; Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick ascent. Jens Richter and friends returned to South Greenland for another attempt on Apostelens Tommelfinger, which lies above the Lindenows Fjord and of which they had almost reac...
Alaska-Yukon TerritoryMt. Logan: Second and Third Ascents. On 17 June 1950 Norman H. Read (aged 60) and André Roch, well-known Swiss climber, made the second ascent of Mt. Logan (19,850 ft.). Read, with five others, had made the first ascent on 23...
Rassemblement International d’Alpinistes, Chamonix, July 7 to 26. Every two years the Fédération Française de la Montagne invites participants from some 25 countries to be their guests for three weeks of climbing in Chamonix. The meeting is center...
Gyachung Kang. A Korean expedition was led by Yang Haw-Seok. On October 24, Shin Yeom-Bo, Yeon Hen-Mo, and Sherpas Ang Rinzi and Ang Dorje reached the summit (7952 meters, 26,089 feet) via the southwest face and southwest ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Chacraraju Este and Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca. Yugoslav Pavle Kozjek had a fine season in the Cordillera Blanca. On June 14, he completed the probably first solo ascent of the American route on the 900-meter-high south face of Chacraraju Este...
Koa Rong 2. This virgin peak in Lahul was climbed by a Polish team. Andrzej Zboinski, leader, and Ryzsard Wrona reached the summit on August 23. The following day, Ryszard Tokarczyk, his wife Grazyna and Krzysztof Wroczynski repeated the ascent. T...
Ingolffjeld, Attempt on South Face. The weather was unusually poor, making access to the fjord a problem because of excessive ice. Leader of this British-Danish group was Dolfi Rotovnik. The climbers involved were Bill Tweedale and I, British, and...
Tocorpuri Group, 1990. Our expedition was composed of Austrian Theo Dowbenka and Germans Ludwig Albrecht, Ludwig Esenböck, Josef Hümmer, Josef Knott, Rolf Thorenz and me. We ascended by their normal routes Lican- cabur (5921 meters, 19,426 feet) a...
Rakaposhi, Northwest Ridge. Our expedition made the second ascent of the northwest ridge, partly by a new route, and the sixth ascent of the peak. We were Dries Nijsen, leader, Ton van den Boogaard, Rudolf de Koning, Mathieu van Rijswick and I. We...
Wyoming—Grand Teton National Park: On July 14, 1953, Norma Hart (22) and Roger G. Smith had climbed the Grand by the Exum route and were descending via the Owen route. She used a nylon sling tied by unspecified knots and rappelled in the usual way...
More Moab Area Climbs. Jay Smith and his wife Jo climbed King Krimson (5.11,2 pitches) in the spring. The route is at the far right edge of the south face of Parriot Mesa. Also on the south face, the farthest left splinter crack, just right of Yog...
Mount Everest Winter Attempt, 1987-1988. Our expedition consisted of Masayoshi Utsumi, Kiyotaka Hoshino, my wife Masami Hasegawa and me. As reported in AAJ, 1988 on page 272, we were prevented from getting to the mountain earlier by the big snowst...