AAC, North Central Section. Our Section continues to grow after several inactive years without a chair. The Web site was up and running the entire year and has proven to be valuable in spreading information around the Section. Climbers have used t...
Geregeer Mustagh, First Ascent. It was reported that in the summer of 1997, a joint Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka and the Shizuoka University Alpine Club Japanese expedition made the first ascent of Mt. Geregeer Mustagh (5250m) in the Chinese T...
Cerro San Enrique, Quimsa Cruz, 1980. Elaine Brooke had climbed in the Quimsa Cruz before and knew her way there. I remember little of the approach since most of the travel was at night in trucks. Somewhere, about 100 kilometers south of La Paz, w...
Mt. McKinley, Slovak Route, Third Ascent. From June 24-26, Steve House, Scott Backes and Mark Twight climbed the Slovak Route in 60 hours non-stop. They carried no bivouac gear apart from a two-pound jacket each. The trio brought two stoves and 22...
FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsOn August 9, Bruce Dow (25) was descending the Koven Couloir on Mt. Owen after climbing the East Ridge Route. The party was unroped and was climbing down to the west of the snow in the couloir. Dow fell head first 60 fee...
ILLNESS – HACE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, ASCENDING TOO FASTCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Misery HillOn July 30, Ken Goldstein (25) had stopped to rest at the base of Misery Hill (13,000 feet) and was later discovered unconscious and unresponsive. USFS cli...
Dorje Lhakpa, West Ridge. It was reported that the west ridge of this peak was climbed on March 15 by a Japanese team led by Yuji Ishikawa from Hokkaigakeun University. Summiters were Ishikawa, Naomune Ogura and Masataka Shiraishi, all from Sappor...
Montana, Glacier National Park, Pollock Mountain. At about 11 A.M. on 18 June Jerome Thomas Delaney, Joseph Commers, and Charles John Brady, began an unplanned climb of Mt. Pollock from the Logan Pass parking area. The climb involved a rather easy...
Provo Canyon. In August, Mark Galbraith and I climbed the prominent pedestal between the ice climbs “Finger of Fate” and “Bridalveil Falls.” A long fist crack in the big left-facing corner is what attracted us. The climb starts just right of the p...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHERAlberta, Peter Lougheed Park, Mount Murray, R & DOn November 11, a party of ice climbers on the route R & D on Mount Murray in the Ranger Creek area, was hit by a size 1 to 1.5 avalanche before beginning th...
Meru North, 1980. We climbed Meru North from the north. It had been reported to be the highest summit, but we discovered that it is only 6400 meters (20,998 feet). The route from Base Camp (14,100 feet) to Advanced Base (15,100 feet) was on morain...
Nalumasortoq, Sekitori, Previously Unreported. In July and August, 1997, Mikio Suitsu and Kenta Kanehara (Japan) established Sekitori (VI 5.10 A4, 14 pitches, 670m) on the left pillar of Nalumasortoq’s west face. They used 200 meters of fixed rope...
Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla. On May 18 Luis Red Angel (Spain), Simon from Germany (I don’t know his last name), and I climbed a new route on an unnamed peak on the Tokositna Glacier. The route, Couloir Canalla, was 700m long, with snow up to 70°...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. A pre-monsoon Italian expedition of 16 members led by Giancarlo Riva failed to climb the normal route, the southeast ridge, of Lhotse Shar (8450 meters, 27,559 feet). They had two high camps and planned another at 23,000 feet....
Everest. A Korean expedition led by Hahm Tak-Young successfully climbed Everest by the South Col. Heo Young-Ho and Ang Rita Sherpa reached the summit on December 22. Heo used oxygen while sleeping at Camp IV on the South Col, where he spent three ...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKWashington, Nooksack TowerOn August 26, 1984, Joe Catellani (30) and Mark Bebie (31) ascended Nooksack Tower by noon. They made the first 50 meter rappel at 1230 and began down climbing Class 3 rock to the next rappel sta...
Tocllaraju, Southwest Face. The expedition of our newly founded Club de Montañeros Américo Tordoya placed a Base Camp in the Quebrada Ishinca. While we climbed Urus and Tocllaraju by the normal routes, Mario Masuelos and Gonzalo Menacho headed for...
Mount Foraker, First Winter Ascent, Southeast Ridge. A Mountaineering Club of Alaska party was flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on February 13. It consisted of Steve and Gary Tandy, Don and Dave Pahlke, Larry Tedrick, Brian Miskil and Gaylan McCord. ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT Colorado, FlatironsOn May 19,1986, a male climber fell while doing a roped ascent of the second Flatiron in Boulder. He suffered a head injury, which caused him to be argumentative, profane, and combative during his evacu...
Kharchakund, North Ridge. Bobby Gilbert, Rob Tresidder, Pete Scott and I made the first ascent alpine-style of the north ridge of Kharchakund (6612 meters, 21,695 feet). It was the third ascent of the peak, which had previously been climbed twice ...