Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Rødebjerg, East Greenland

Rødebjerg, East Greenland. An expedition was in the Angmagssalik area from July 2 to August 1. The leader was Scot Jackie Gorden, accompanied by Scot Wendy Gudmundsson and Englishmen Graham Butler and Nigel Dyson. They flew by helicopter to the Hå...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, G.T.N.P., Blacktail Butte

Wyoming, G.T.N.P., Blacktail Butte. On 28 August William Clark (19), was belaying Douglas Boggie (27), both relatively inexperienced, while Boggie tried a difficult section of the practice cliff. According to Boggie, he was about 20 feet above the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, First Ascent of Open Door Pinnacle

First Ascent of Open Door Pinnacle, Wyoming. South of Grand Teton National Park, about 25 miles from the town of Jackson on U.S. Highway 187, a gravel road turns northeast up Granite Canyon. Eventually the road leads to a small Forest Service recr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Silver Star, West Peak, Northeast Ridge

Silver Star, West Peak, Northeast Ridge. The 1200-foot northeast ridge is a rock climber’s dream with solid, vertical granite spires and fins. Chris Delejska and I made its first ascent on May 9. We approached via the classic Silver Star Glacier r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascades, Morning Star Peak

Morning Star Peak. This fine, rocky peak is one of the prominent summits of the Cascade skyline seen from Seattle. It was climbed in July for the first time by Monte Haun, Mark Haun, Dick Hill, and Kenn Carpenter. The approach was made by the Sult...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Heavy Packs, Unroped, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Neptuak

FALL ON ROCK, HEAVY PACKS, UNROPEDAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount NeptuakOn August 28, a party of seven set out on a club outing to traverse some of the ten peaks from west to east in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, Banff National Park. They had ver...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II

Gasherbrum II. Our expedition was composed of Mike Collins, Dan Heilig, Rob Hess, Phil Powers and me. We climbed Gasherbrum II by the normal southwest ridge. We left Dassu on May 11, but a very bad storm on the ninth day of the approach trapped us...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Jiptik Valley, Kyzyl-Muz, North Face, Stegosaurus Spur (Not to Summit)

Jiptik Valley, Kyzyl-Muz, north face, Stegosaurus Spur (not to summit). In early July Paul Hersey (New Zealand), Yewjin Tan (Singapore/NZ), and I (U.S./NZ) arrived in the Jiptik Valley, 20km east of the famous Ak-su and Kara-su valleys. A New Zeal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Bhrikuti Winter Attempt

Bhrikuti Winter Attempt. Romolo Nottaris and three other Swiss attempted to make a winter ascent of Bhrikuti by the southwest ridge, but they were able to reach only 5500 meters on November 30.Elizabeth Hawley


Book Reviews AAJ
Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles

Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles, by C. Douglas Milner. 176 pages with frontispiece in color. 70 illustrations by the author, 4 map diagrams, bibliography and index. London: Robert Hale, Ltd., 1955. Price 30 s.This is the first book in English dealing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Grands Charmoz and Aguille Sans Nom, French Alps

Grands Charmoz and Aguille Sans Nom, French Alps. On October 19 and 20, Mark Twight and Scott Backes climbed a very difficult new 10-pitch route on the west face of the Grands Charmoz. It was mostly ice and mixed climbing with one pitch of A2. On ...


Club Activities AAJ
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Sunday climbing at Devils Lake during the academic year continues to be the mainstay of our rock climbing activities, although occasional overnights, hikes, and an outing to the Mississippi Palisades were programed. ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Chomolungma Sings the Blues: Travels Around Everest

Chomolungma Sings the Blues: Travels Around Everest. Ed Douglas. Constable, England. 1997. 256 pages. $40.00.In Chomolungma Sings the Blues, Ed Douglas, editor of Climber, a U.K. magazine, and The (British) Alpine Journal, recounts his experiences...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Nevada, Red Rocks, Rainbow Wall — The Original Route

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONENevada, Red Rocks, Rainbow Wall – The Original RouteA climber, Josh, fell from the second pitch (140 feet) to the base of the climb. Three climbers were on the route. Two were climbing together, and the victim of the fa...


Book Reviews AAJ
Stone Palaces

Stone Palaces. Geofrey Childs. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2000. 217 pages. $22.95.Teewinot and Stone Palaces are of a similar literary genre. They both attempt circumscribing what is unique about the climbers’ lifestyle. Yet their difference...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks above Barpu Glacier, West Karakoram

Peaks Above Barpu Glacier, West Karakoram. In mid August Ralph Atkinson, Ged Campion, Mick Curtin, John Keska, Stewart Muir and I visited the Barpu Glacier. We approached by jeep from Hunza to Hoppar, where we hired cooperative local porters for t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean-Japanese Expedition to the Central Cordillera

Chilean-Japanese Expedition to the Central Cordillera. The Japanese group consists of three climbers, Otha, their leader, Tamba and Toyoda, all of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They are all dedicating themselves to becoming acquainted with t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Snoqualmie

Washington, Snoqualmie—On February 19, 1956 Everett Lasher and Gene Prater began a winter ascent of the 4,500-foot ridge lying north of Camp Mason on the Snoqualmie Pass Highway. It was a. bitterly cold, overcast day with a sharp wind. As they mad...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Bona

Mount Bona. Apparently two Japanese parties climbed Mount Bona (16,500 feet) in 1977. From information in Iwa To Yuki the second party made the eleventh ascent of the mountain and the sixth Japanese one. They followed close on a party from Kawasak...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, and Descending Unroped – British Columbia, Mt. Assiniboine Park, Mt. Assiniboine

SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, AND DESCENDING UNROPED—British Columbia, Mt. Assiniboine Park, Mt. Assiniboine. Mike Walsh and Barbara Coffman (30) had spent a few days at the Hind Hut and had just started to descend, unroped, the snow chute o...