Kang Guru. A seven-man Japanese team was led by Haruo Kanbe. They established Camp I at 17,225 feet on April 9 and Camp II at 19,700 feet on April 16. Ikuo Yoshita and Sherpas Ang Temba and Tsering on May 2 reached the summit (6981 meters, 22,904 ...
The Adventures of a Mountaineer, by Frank Smythe. 8 vo.; 217 pages, with 17 illustrations and brief appendix.From youthful strolls in the Lake District and North Wales we follow the climbing career of Frank Smythe as he treads Dolomite limestone, ...
North Howser Tower, Direct West Face. At four A.M. on August 5 Gay Campbell, Bill Knowler and I set off for the base of the climb from camp at Bill’s Pass in not very promising weather. We scrambled up snow and scree, rappelled over loose rock dow...
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Granite MountainDuring a beautiful, hot mid-April weekend, literally dozens and dozens of individuals and small parties were on easily accessible Granite Mountain. Among them was lone climber, John Scribner (41),...
NEW EQUIPMENTPrusiking Device. A new mechanical device, called Jümar Stirrups and developed to replace the prusik knot, has recently been imported from Switzerland. With its aid long ascents up a fixed rope are made relatively easy and fast as com...
Tsaronoro, Bravo Les Filles. Nancy Feagin, Kath Pyke, Beth Rodden (who had never placed a piece of pro or climbed a big wall) and I, along with Greg Epperson (photographer) and Kevin Thaw (film team rigger) and Michael Brown and Rob Raker as the f...
Huandoy, Attempt on South Face. The French Cordillera Blanca Expedition, organized by the Groupe de Haute Montagne, tried in vain from June 15 to July 15 to ascend the very difficult south face of Huandoy. This imposing 3000-foot vertical rock wal...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 3, 1985, Joseph Palmer (23) was killed when he took a leader fall on Aftershock. Palmer had selected Aftershock (5.11b) because he was currently working on leading at tha...
Cerro Cajón Perdido. Attempts. More than 20 climbers, which included Italians from Venice and Argentinians from the town of General Alvear, joined forces for a campaign among the little known peaks of the southern part of the province. They climbe...
Snafflehound, Southeast Ridge, Vowell Group. In one long August day Mark Weigelt, Dave Anderson, Steve Barnett and I made the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Snafflehound, which rises from the glacial cirque. The climb started some 150 feet...
Note on Bridge Climbing. The region of southern Utah and northern Arizona is famous for its scenic attractions. Colorful mesas, cliffs and canyons occur in great profusion, and many of them are well known to the travelling public. This sandstone w...
North Peary Land, first ascents, a traverse of the peninsula, and confirmation of the world’s most northerly peak. Our nine-person Return To The Top Of The World Expedition landed at Frigg’s Fjord, then traversed the peninsula to the north, going ...
During four weeks in the summer of 2006, Anna Backlund and I climbed on gneiss walls in the Tupilak area, Schweizerland. We left Sweden in the first week of June and flew to Kulusuk via Iceland. Our food, climbing equipment, skis, and camping gear...
FALL ON ICE-FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Chugach National Forest, Byron GlacierOn September 25th at 1815, Alaska State Troopers notified the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group (AMRG) re...
Nepal Police Everest “Clean-Up” Expedition. This expedition (First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition) was certainly a most controversial expedition and has caused much of a stir in Kathmandu. Looked at from different points of view, it was either...
Prins Christian Sund, Igdlorssuit Havn Tower, new routes and first free ascents on the west face. An eight-man team comprising some of the best rock climbers in Britain visited the western end of Prins Christian Sund in the Cape Farewell region of...
Huayna Potosí: The Pleasures of IgnoranceJack MillerWE entered Bolivia as Babes of the Woods. Naked and innocent. There were mountains there, to be sure, but we knew nothing about them. Maybe everything had been climbed, maybe nothing. If there wa...
Alpamayo Norte. On Alpamayo we were plagued by bad weather and sickness. The upper ridge had more ice and snow than usual, covering the fixed ropes that have been left behind there. Steve Moore and I had an enjoyable climb to the north summit but ...
G2: A Climbing Journal. Produced and directed by Thom Pollard. TRT: 53 minutes. Shot on Beta SP and Hi Band 8 video tape. $30.00.G2: A Climbing Journal is a story about an attempt by Americans to climb Gasherbrum II. The story is told in the past ...
FROSTBITE–DEHYDRATED, FAILURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO WARNING SIGNSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressHervé Laurence (40) was a member of a party of eight French climbers who were planning to ascend via the West Buttress. This group departed on May ...