Trimukhi Parbat East and P 5794, Northern Gangotri Region. Our expedition comprised Monesh Devjani and me supported by Pasang Bodh and Yograj Buruwa of Manali. We entered the unfrequented Jadh Ganga valley north of the Gangotri Glacier. The last r...

Iowa Mountaineers. It was another very active year for the Iowa Mountaineers, with many of our 450 members climbing in the Canadian Rockies and in Alaska. Weekend climbing courses were provided to some 60 University of Iowa students for course cre...

Bamba Dhura, 1991. On page 229 of AAJ 1992, mention was made of the first ascent of Bamba Dhura (6334 meters, 20,780 feet) by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police team led by Mohinder Singh. On September 13, 1991, Ang Phuri Sherpa, Dawa Ringzin, Gajendra...

Mount Geikie, North Face. A new route was established on the 4,000-foot north face of Mt. Geikie in the Canadian Rockies. From July 23 to August 2 Scott Simper and Seth Shaw climbed continuous crack systems through the overhanging headwall to the ...

Lost Coyote Tower, Ascent. Previously unreported is the first ascent of Lost Coyote Tower (II A1 5.8) by Fred Beckey and Dave Pollari. The spire is located eight miles southeast of Rock Point, Arizona.Eric Bjørnstadt

Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. Franco Alletto, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Giancarlo Del Zotto, Bruno Gabaglio, Fabio and Mariola Masciandri and I were active on the north coast of the Akuliaruseq peninsula in July. From Base Camp on the coast, wh...

Wheeler Crest, The Big K-Mart, Four More Shopping Days. On December 21, Barb Howe, Eric Sampson, and I established a new route on a previously unclimbed formation on the far right (north) side of the Wheeler Crest. The formation itself is an appro...

Gasherbrum I. Our expedition was composed of Giorgio Nicolodi, Gino Valle, Fausto De Stefani, Sergio De Leo and me as leader. Excessive heat caused problems on the approach along the Braldo River and on the mountain. We climbed Gasherbrum I by the...

FALL ON ROCK, POOR CONDITIONSAlberta, Mount McGillivray, Kahl CrackOn July 16, D.W. was leading the third pitch of this 200 meter high 5.5 rock climb. The crack in which he was supposed to be climbing and placing gear was wet, so he climbed on the...

Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains; Wrangell, Wrangell Mountains; and McKinley, Northwest Buttress. Todd Frankiewicz, Leo Americus and I completed a winter ascent of Marcus Baker (13,176 feet) on March 1. Though technically not difficult, it has rare...

Annapurna IV. Like last year, Annapurna IV was successfully climbed by a group organized by the German Alpine Club (DAV) on a commercial basis. We climbed the north face and northwest ridge and fixed some 4000 feet of rope, all of which we removed...

Bustle Tower, Beppin, New Route, Previously Unreported. From late June to mid-July, 1999, Makoto Kuroda and I were in the Circle of the Unclimbables. On July 2, we found a beautiful crack line in the center of the southeast face of Bustle Tower, a...

Rolf Larson’s and my route, climbed on December 4, begins up the central ice flow on the north face and eventually moves up right around steep iceless rotten rock. The first four 60m ropelengths went at WI3, WI4, WI4+, WI3. Three simul-climbing bl...

The High Mountains of the Alps. Helmut Dumler and Willi Paul Burkhardt. Translated by Tim Carruthers and adapted by Ken Wilson. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1993. 224 pages, 275 color photos, sketches, maps. $45.00.In 1923, when modem mo...

Juncal Tragedy. One of the foremost Peruvian climbers, Arturo Tordoya, American Carl Erickson and Canadian Bryan Jay Ball have been missing since they left to attempt Juncal. It is feared that they were buried by an avalanche, probably on January ...

Mt. Hunter, Wall of Shadows, free to third ice band; and Mt. Huntington, West Face Couloir. “It’s the best day of the season,” our pilot commented as Russ Mitrovich and I flew into the Alaska Range. It was May 12, and we were headed for the Tokosi...

Alexander Blok Peak, West Face. It was reported that a big team from Central Siberia that included A. Bekasov, V. Kokhanov, P. Kuznetsov, K. Obednin, S. Pushkarev and S. Sagan made a new route up the very impressive face of Alexander Blok Peak (52...

Aconcagua, South Face, a new route on the Southeast Buttress to 6000 Meters. To acclimatize Jean-Luc Bedouet, Jean-Marcel Dufour, Pierre Rave- neau, Dr. Bernard Vallet, Jean-Pierre Chassagne and his wife Francine from January 16 to 22 climbed to 5...

EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 18, 1984, the bodies of Sadatamo Keiso (35) and Kenji Yatuhashi (32), both of Hiroshima, were retrieved from 16 meters below the summit of El Capitan, where ...

Soviet Climbing in the Pamir Mountains and the Tien Shan, 1980. Despite generally bad weather in 1980 in the mountains of the USSR, a number of new big-wall climbs were made on the high peaks by Soviet climbers. The 9000-foot-high south face of Pi...