Iowa Mountaineers. The past year was one of the most active in club history. An unusually large number of weekend climbing outings were sponsored to Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and to the Mississippi Palisades area in Illinois. During the spring and e...
Mt. Inflexible, East Face Funfun. David Marra invited me on a secret mission on December 7, 2002. All I knew was that it was in Kananaskis Country and was unclimbed. We parked 2km up Mt. Fortress Road, 100 feet before the first “End of Avalanche Z...
Makalu Attempt. A French expedition of ten was led by Raymond Renaud to Makalu’s northwest side. Sherpas Sirdar Lhakpa Norbu and Pasang Dawa reached the expedition’s high point of 8300 meters on October 13 and were turned back by strong, cold wind...
Tullujuto, Cordillera Central. The Scot Frank Hepburn, German Erich Pahl, New Zealander Jennifer Davidson and I drove to Azulcocha. Several days of bad weather prevented setting up a high camp until October 3. From there we climbed Tullujuto (18,8...
Titan I, southeast pillar. Dutch climbers Martin Fickweiler and I visited the Tasermiut Fjord in July. We camped in the Klosterdalen Valley close to the fjord and below the famous tower, Ketil. We spotted interesting rock spires at the end of the ...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Club has weekly practice climbs on local rocks. Beginners are instructed in safe climbing, and more experienced climbers try to perfect their technique. Members frequently practise the dynamic belay by dropping a 120-lb. ...
Eiger, North Face, Japanese Summer Direttissima. Five Japanese men, Takio and Yasuo Kato, Satoru Nigishi, Amano Hirofumi and Susumu Kubo and one woman, Michiko Imai, climbed a third route on the north face of the Eiger, a second direttissima, whic...
Gyachung Kang Tragedy. Eight Japanese from Fukuoka University and three Nepalese, attempting to climb Gyachung Kang by its southwest buttress, were led by Mitsui Uematsu. On October 17, Shinichi Baba was returning from Camp IV at 6400 meters. He p...
Monja Chica, El Altar Group, New Route. On December 24, we arrived at the south side of the Altar massif. After three days of bad weather, fog and deep snow, on the 27th we reached the col between Monja Chica and El Tabemaculo. The next day, Carlo...
Peaks in Lahul. There was much climbing activity in Lahul. Mulkila 5 (6370 meters, 20,900 feet) was climbed in September by Indians G.J. Jambotkar, P.B. Bodhane, D.T. Kulkarni and three high-altitude porters. Mulkila 7 (6340 meters, 20,800 feet) w...
“Grimface,” Cascade Range. During the second week of August Doug McCarty, Steve Barnett, and I climbed new routes on “Grimface”, the prominent granite peak between Wall and Lakeview Creeks on the Canadian side of the boundary. A route on the east ...
Ojos del Salado: Permit, Hut and Road Conditions 1991-2. In late December, 1991, Ken Nolan, Jean Aschenbrenner, Dan Smith and I drove across the southern Puna de Atacama to the Chilean-Argentine frontier near the Ojos del Salado, assisted by Chile...
Braldu Brakk Attempt. French climbers led by Claude Nizon unsuccessfully attempted to climb Braldu Brakk. Details are missing.
Wyoming—Wind River Range, Warbonnet Peak: On August 11, 1953, Kent Bollinger (28), Gauray Yodh, and Tom Nathan left the Chicago Mountaineering Club climbing camp in the Wind River at 8:30 a.m. to climb the east side of Warbonnet Peak. The original...
Tusher Canyon, Moab Area. On October 23, Brian Takei and I climbed Walden’s Room (II, 5.10, Al, 3 pitches) on the House of Putterman. We left only one point of aid on this fabulous, new, 220-foot butte. On October 30, Luke Laeser and I climbed Put...
Haizi, Sichuan. The name for this peak was given as Haizi by the Chinese and as Genie by the Japanese. The editor is not sure of its exact location. The leader of a Japanese expedition was Kazuo Tobita. They established Base Camp at 4350 meters on...
Wadi Rum, various routes. Over the winter John was based in Amman, and between trips to Baghdad, Anne visited Jordan and we spent as much time as possible in Wadi Rum. We decided the place was fantastic, having world class everything (trad, sport,...
Little Slide Canyon, Regge Pole, The East Face Dihedrals. Pat Brennan and I completed The East Face Dihedrals (III 5.11) on Regge Pole on September 1. The route ascends the spectacular system of dihedrals visible from the Barney Lakes Trail. The c...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, ICE COLLAPSE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Sunwapta Pass Area, Panther FallsOn March 8,1993, K.P. and T.A. were climbing Panther Falls in the Sunwapta Pass area. One of them led out on a six-meter pillar, placed two...
Kamet (7756m), attempts and ascent. Jerzy Tillak’s eight-member Polish expedition attempted the unrepeated west ridge. This team of strong climbers reached 7390m on August 26 having approached the peak from Gamsali and Niti. Camp 4 was placed at 6...