On April 1, 1995, as this Journal was at Nimrod Press being printed, its editor for the past 35 years, H. Adams Carter, died at his home in Milton, Massachusetts. This publication is but one example of his life of distinguished accomplishment and ...
FALL ON SNOW—LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 14, at 1045, Nathan Dick (51) lost control while glissading near the top of Lamb’s Slide on Longs Peak shortly after he had completed its asc...
Mt. Siguniang (6,249m), southeast ridge, second ascent. Mt. Siguniang was first summited in August 1981 by a Japanese team via the southeast ridge (AAJ 1982). We made the second successful ascent of this route, with six members summiting on Novemb...
Beyond Risk: Conversations with Climbers. Nicholas O’Connell. Foreword by Greg Child. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 300 pages. $19.95.Beyond Risk is a collection of seventeen interviews conducted by Nicholas O’Connell with “the world’s most inn...
Dan Beard, Mooses Tooth and Rooster Comb, 1978. Jay Kerr, Lee Anderson, John Harris and I flew to the Ruth Amphitheater on about April 1, 1978. We left immediately for our first objective, the unclimbed southeast ridge of Mount Dan Beard. Kerr and...
FALL INTO MOAT–SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Chugach Range, Cantata PeakOn June 6, around 1400, Kirk Towner (26) and I (29) were in the process of descending from Cantata Peak (5,205 feet). After glissading almost 2,000 feet down a p...
Grasping for Heaven: Interviews with North American Mountaineers. Frederic Hartemann and Robert Hauptman. Foreword by Jan Reynolds. McFarland & Company, Inc., 2010. 224 pages. Paperback.$35.00.This book transcribes conversations with 16 climbe...
Lost Temple. Almost invisible against the north face of East Temple as you look at it from Big Sandy Lake is the 1000-foot monolith, Lost Temple. Its inside detachment from the main face is about 300 feet high, but our studies showed no reasonable...
Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Activity. Expedition members Brinley Mitchell, Peter McEwen and Ian MacDonald are part of a group of gay men who believe that the twin activities of sailing and climbing assist with building health and vitality. We ...
Operation OperationWeldon F. HealdTHE operation was a success. I would live. But the doctor ordered me to remain a month longer in the hospital. He even encouraged me to hope that my insides would stop floating around and eventually settle back ...
Cambridge East Greenland Expedition. Our expedition comprised twelve members of Cambridge University, led by Colin Knox, a New Zealander undertaking research at King’s College. The other members were John Lendon, Mike Graham, Dick Morton, Rupert R...
Brooks Range, first complete traverse. In September of 2001 I completed the first crossing of the North American Brooks Range, from Point Hope to the Mackenzie River. This crossing required many expeditions over a number of years. Viewed from Poin...
The American East Greenland ExpeditionDONALD J. LISKATHE third day out of Scoresbysund dawned over our camp on an island called Danmarks-oer. Early that morning we* had spotted our Eskimo guide from Kap Hope in his open boat heading east back home...
1951–971959–9719981998USACANUSACANTerrainRock357242710218Snow2081312281Ice19010084River13300Unknown22701Ascent or DescentAscent31694588911Descent19383104913Unknown3247400Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2471231778Slip on snow or ice808165201Fall...
A New Route Up Rainier’s West Side(August 26-29, 1938)Don M. WoodsCREDIT for the completion of one of the few remaining new routes on Mt. Rainier is due to Ome Daiber, of the Seattle Mountaineers, who showed it to me on the map as well as on an ae...
THE CORDILLERA DARWIN is a relatively unexplored alpine range about 140 miles from east to west and 40 miles from north to south on a peninsula on the southwest side of Tierra del Fuego. It is cut by fiords from the north and south with glaciers t...
Richard K Irvin 1930-2006Richard Irvin died on March 10, 2006 at his home in Boise, Idaho after a long battle with cancer. It was the end of an eventful life. Dick's participation in a climb frequently guaranteed success and always guaranteed a go...
After an early June ascent to check out and clean the more difficult pitches, Matt Clifton, Evan Cabodi, and I returned to Colchuck Balanced Rock (CBR) on August 9 and completed a free ascent of our new line. The Scoop (III+ 5.11c), named for the ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsMichael Knofler (45) was a West German of intermediate climbing ability and experience. On the morning on July 2, 1981, he came into the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to sign out for a climb of ...
EL CAPITAN: I wanted to approach but then I didn’t. Like David tackling Goliath. It would be the fulfillment of a dream but fear was my predominant emotion now that it was really happening. Somehow I could never quite believe it was real: we were ...