Unnamed Peaks. On August 24 I hiked from the town of Güicán to Cardenillo Lake, located at the northwest end of the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy (Güicán) and the same afternoon I ascended a peak c. 5045 meters (16,552 feet), and shortly afterwards climb...
Huandoy, South Face, Demaison Route, Second Ascent, and Other French Activity. In June, Y. Graziani and J. Blanc Gras made the second ascent of the Demaison route on the South Face of Huandoy, taking 11 days. Further details are lacking, but this ...
Mount Thor, West Face. A Japanese party of seven led by Kuzuichi Yamazaki made an attempt of the west face of Mount Thor but Isao Yagi fell to his death and the climb was not completed. Other members were Ide, Yamamoto, Inuzuka, Kirmura, and Makin...
Split Aiguille, Direct, Sawtooth Range. Just west of the Grand Aiguille lies the 300-foot Split Aiguille, split by a deep, open chimney, which was climbed twice in 1960 by rope throwing and a tyrolean traverse from its lower summit. It was called ...
Mt. Hardy, The Disappearing Staircase. It was amazing that a feature as compelling as the northeast buttress of Mt. Hardy could have not been climbed by 2001. Perhaps it was its perceived isolation, since it is almost 10 miles from the road to its...
Peaks near Huagaruncho. Fernard R. and Francois Rebeyrol, Mme Monique Bruhat, Mlle Claudine Tesa and I were a group of friends who wanted to climb not too far from Lima, for we had but two weeks in July. Therefore from the village of Huachón we cl...
Needle Mountain, north face. To climb the north face of Needle Mountain (12,106') has long been a goal of mine. After three unsuccessful attempts I finally made it to the top on September 27-28—7,000 feet from the floor of the South Fork’s valley ...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER PROTECTION, FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 14, 1981, Frederick Fritschler (27) was at the top of the layback section on the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral when he fell to a ledge 35 feet below. He did not ...
Trisul, West Rib. An expedition of the British Army Royal Engineers made a successful climb of the Yugoslavian route on Trisul by its western rib, but quit just short of the summit since they had not received permission for the climb. On June 21 P...
Teewinot Mountain, Northwest Ridge, variation. On July 29, John Whitesel and Leigh Ortenburger, on the second ascent of the northwest ridge, made a direct variation up the steep section which had been bypassed in 1954. At a point where the origina...
FALL THROUGH ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Keystone CanyonAn ice climbing party of experienced climbers was approaching Bridal Veil Falls (V), which requires crossing the Lowe River, early in the season (November), and found the river ice much ...
A.A.C., Southern California Section. Two meetings and a program for the public were held by this Section in the first half of 1977. On January 27, Bob Kamps presented a program of his climbs during the past twenty years, including hundreds of new ...
Cerro Torre Region. During February Argentines and Italians living in Buenos Aires entered the Cerro Torre region, hoping to find the body of Tony Egger, who fell after the successful climb of Cerro Torre in January, 1959. Expedition members were ...
McCain’s Pillar. For nearly a generation climbers have known of the sharp, block-shaped pinnacle lurking near the base of the north ridge, or more precisely, the Crescent Arête of Mount Owen. But it was not until September 3 that it was climbed by...
Pernod Spire. On July 10, Dave Turner and I climbed the regular route on Chablis Spire and traversed into the notch between Chablis and Pernod. Dave led one long pitch up lichen-caked rock to within 12 feet of the summit. I joined him and clipped ...
AVALANCHE, WEATHER British Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Stephen, Super BockOn March 6, three ice climbers were approaching the bottom pitch of a route called Super Bock (180 m. III WI5) on Mount Stephen in Yoho National Park. Two of the cli...
Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII), 1978. In the post-monsoon season of 1978 Our German Alpine Club made the fourth ascent of Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 feet) by the south ridge of the south face. This route had been climbed twice before in the spring ...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers had a busy year. The ski mountaineering course was reactivated after lying dormant for several years. Despite poor snow conditions most of the year which caused cancellation of some of the tours and relocating ce...
The Smokestack. This is the lefthand tower on a separate but obscure massif of the Wheeler Crest, marked as P 8400 on the map, above Well’s Meadow on the Owens Valley floor. Though visible from Bishop, it appears so small and blends in so well wit...
Aconcagua, South Face. The Polish woman, Wanda Rutkiewicz, along with the Swiss Stéphane Schaffter succeeded in making the ascent of the south face of Aconcagua by the 1954 French route from January 16 to 19, 1985. They were trapped for a day 1000...