FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Grassi LakesOn July 25, two climbers were ascending a bolted route on the White Imperialist wall at Grassi Lakes. The lead climber fell from above the fourth bolt. The belay was using an A...
Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. There were a number of ascents of Gasherbrum II. An American group climbed the standard route. On June 28, Malachi Miller, leader, Phil Powers and Michael Collins were among those who reached the summit. That same...
Ak-su Valley, Central Pyramid, north face; Kotin, lower east face. In summer 2007 British climbers Sion Brocklehurst and Andy Scott climbed a probable new route on the north face of Central Pyramid (3,850m), taking eight days to climb 20 pitches u...
Bhrikuti, First (?) and Second (?) Ascents. There had been some question as to whether Bhrikuti (6364 meters, 20,879 feet) in northern Mustang had been successfully climbed before a joint British-Nepalese expedition, led by Elaine Brook and Lhakpa...
Zermatt and the Valais, by Sir Arnold Lunn. 202 pages of text, 9 black & white photographs and index. London: Hollis & Carter, 1955. Price, 12s 6d.Imagine yourself, a newcomer to the Alps, taking the little red train from Visp to Zermatt. ...
Renegar Glacier Region, Royal Society Range, 1992. A geological research team from the University of Itago spent six weeks in the Renegar Glacier region 100 kilometers south of Scott Base. The peaks are subsidiary mountains at the southern end of ...
Mazamas. One of the year’s biggest projects was the rebuilding of Mazama Lodge on the south slopes of Mount Hood. The new lodge was dedicated June 25; the event was followed the next day with an ascent of Mount Hood by some 175 people. The new lod...
Rock Prints: A Collection of Rock Climbing Photographs. Greg Epperson. Rock Prints Publishing: Bishop, CA. 1998. 81 black-and-white photographs. 96 pages. $35.00.Greg Epperson, best known for his striking color shots of climbers in action, has pro...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY – LOWERING ERRORNew Hampshire, Rumney, Armed and DangerousOn Today (April 19) on the route Armed and Dangerous, a seasoned climber was lowered off the end of his rope by another seasoned climber. Both climbers had jo...
Teewinot. Jack Turner. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2000. 248 pages. $24.95.
Batura Mustagh Map. Another of the excellent maps by Jerzy Wala is available, a map of the Batura group in the western Karakoram. It may be purchased for $3.00 from Jan Babicz, ul. Bajana 5B/1, 80-463 Gdansk, Poland.
Cerro Helbling, Northern Patagonian Continental Icecap. An Argentine expedition explored a region east of the Northern Patagonian Continental Icecap around Lago León. The party first investigated the lakes by a pneumatic motor boat. On January 30 ...
Washington, Cascade Pass Area—On September 16, 1956 a party of ten mountaineers were on their way to attempt Boston Peak at about 5:00 a.m. They were working their way up a 25-degree glacier worn rock slope. The climbers were unroped and were taki...
Mount Blackburn, Second Ascent of Southeast Ridge. On Memorial Day weekend, Rob Blair, Jerry Hinkle, Roger Grette, my wife Barb and I were flown to the dirt airstrip at Nugget Creek. In 3½ days we walked up the Kuskalana Glacier to the 9000-foot p...
FATIGUE—Alberta, Mt. Edith. Brian Borucki (23), Jim LeSage (25) and Richard Albrecht (30) were climbing Mt. Edith on August 16. Only Albrecht had climbed mountains before and he had done little leading. They were slow and unused to the loose rock....
Tehipite Dome, Southwest Face, In the Niche of Time. In October, spending 14 days out from the trailhead and six days climbing, Ron Felton, Guy ‘Zelly’ Zielsky and I succeeded in establishing the first completely independent and first big new rout...
Kirat Chuli (Tent Peak) Attempts. An Austrian expedition led by Kurt Elbl operated in Sikkim from April 24 to May 25. They attempted the south-west ridge of Kirat Chuli (7365 meters). The 12-member team reached 7153 meters on May 17. The high poin...
North Dome, West Face. On April 29 Art Gran and I made the first ascent of the west face of North Dome. The route lies in the northern of two prominent crack systems near the center of the face. Laybacks and chimneys constituted the main difficult...
North Palisade, North Face. Lee Panza and I did a new route on the Sierra’s third highest peak on July 12. We ascended the broad right-hand buttress of the three between the U-notch and Clyde couloirs. We climbed 300 feet, using some aid to pass l...
Cho Oyu. A German expedition was led by Rudi Rott to Cho Oyu (26,750 feet), the seventh highest mountain in the world, to attempt its third ascent and the first one on skis. During the acclimatization period Fritz Stammberger and the Sherpa Aila c...