Palup Peak, Upernivik Island, West Greenland. In June, after Giorgio Pettigiani, Enrico Bologna and I had climbed Gauntlet Peak in the Weasel Valley on Baffin Island by the normal route, Pettigiani and I flew to Umanak in Greenland and went by boa...

Evolution Traverse, First Complete Ascent, Previously Unreported. In early summer, 1999, I finally traversed the Evolution Crest. This is a jagged, eight-mile ridge of nine 13,000-foot peaks in the central Sierra. I say finally, because in 1997 an...

Broad Peak Attempt and Garbage Clean-Up. I returned to Pakistan with a double objective: to remove as much garbage as possible from the Karakoram and to climb Broad Peak if possible, which would have been my third 8000er. 1 chose to make a lightwe...

FALL ON SNOW, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Jasper National Park, Parker RidgeOn May 6, a group of mountaineers were practicing crevasse rescue at Parker Ridge. The group was working in roped teams of three. A person on one end of the rope would jump off ...

Four Horsemen, the Angel and Other Peaks, Revelation Mountains, 1985. In 1985 Dan Heilig, Mal Miller, Greg Collins and I spent from late April to late May in the Revelation Mountains. Our Base Camp was at the head of the southernmost fork of the R...

Annapurna II and IV Attempt. After ten days of approach, the first of our 19-man expedition arrived at Base Camp at Pisang at 12,475 feet. On a rainy September 7 the second group arrived, many of them sick. On the 8th some climbers got to 17,250 f...

Mt. Thor, West Face, Attempt. In late July, August, and early September, I spent 39 days on the west face of Mt. Thor, climbing 20 pitches to a high point two pitches above Hurgnir Ledge. The route is extreme with three pitches of modern A5, three...

Distal Phalanx, North Arête. On September 6-7 John Frieh and I made the first ascent of the North Arête of Distal Phalanx, a remote alpine rock peak in North Cascades National Park. We approached from Thunder Creek Campground, traveling cross-coun...

Cotopaxi: la Montaña de Luz / The Mountain of Light. Freddy Landázuri. Ediciones Campo Abierto, Quito, Ecuador, 1994. 192 pages, 70 black-and- white photographs, 7 line drawings and sketch maps.Both books deal with Ecuadorian mountains and mountai...

Cerro Ugarte. In the course of a reconnaissance expedition to the Juncal-Tupungato area led by Alfredo Magnani, members H. Medina and L. Parra made on January 4 the first ascent of the unnamed peak (c. 4800 meters, 15,748 feet) that marks the end ...

Mt. Hunter, north buttress, second ascent of Deprivation. Stephen Farrand and I arrived at Kahiltna base camp on June 3 and stayed through June 17. In that time we managed to make the second ascent of Deprivation. The ascent took three days, with ...

Rocky Ak-Su, Various Ascents. It was reported that this peak in the Laylak Valley was climbed from July 12 to August 6, 1995. The north summit is rocky (Rocky Ak-Su, 5217 m), and the principal summit in back is extremely snowy (Snowy Ak-Su, 5355 m...

Aconcagua, South Face Solo, Yugoslav Route. In the 1984-5 season, Swiss Ueli Bühler first climbed the classic French route with the Messner finish before returning to ascend solo the 1982 Yugoslav route. He took only three days to complete this ve...

FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE California, Mount GilbertOn October 14, 1984, Richard Harris (24) was climbing the 300 meter north couloir of Mount Gilbert (3990 meters) with Jim Jacobs. Jacobs, the more experienced, was instructing Ha...

Bogda West. A number of Japanese expeditions visited Bodga in 1981. All twelve members of a group led by Ryohei Uchida made the first ascent of Bogda West (5213 meters, 17,103 feet) by its north ridge. They established Base Camp, Camps I and II at...

Mont Forel, East Greenland, 1990. A Norwegian expedition was led by Allan Sande and the other members were Otto A. Bårholm, Erik Brendehaug, Steiner Bekkevolt, Anders Naess, Johan H. Lundo and Thorstein Lunde. They made the first Norwegian ascent ...

Wyoming G.T.N.P., near Amphitheatre Lake. On 13 July David Vetterlein (18), and Charles Sinclair (30), were glissading down a couloir leading to Amphitheatre Lake from the west. The snow was soft to a depth of about one foot. Vetterlein lost contr...

West Face of the Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. In the latter part of July Jim McCarthy and I arrived at the Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, hoping to put up a new route on one of the previously unclimbed faces. The tower is granite, with vertical fractures (res...

Traverse of Molar Tooth, North Peak, Cutthroat Peak and Whistler. This is a grand traverse showcasing the best routes on these four consecutive peaks from north to south. The granite is coarse, often steep, with vertical jointing providing ample h...

Mount Adams, West Face of North Ridge. This previously unscaled 4000-foot wall was ascended on September 11 by Forrest Johnson, Robert Ostro and Robert Startzell and me. After ascending steep ice slopes and crumbling lava ridges above the lower Ad...