FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE—FOOD SUPPLY FELL FROM LEDGECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Washington’s ColumnOn May 16, 1991, Ranger Kelly McCloskey interviewed Tom Broxon’s climbing partner, Patrick Sturzenacker. She took detailed notes, from which I transcr...
Life and Death on Mt. Everest: Sherpas and Himalayan Mountaineering. Sherry B. Ortner. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1999. 396 pages. $26.95.Life and Death on Mt. Everest by Sherry Ortner is a fascinating exploration of the complex an...
ARTHUR PHILEMON COLEMAN 1852–1939Many years ago the American Alpine Club honored itself by electing to honorary membership Professor Coleman. Not only did the Club bring into its fold an explorer and ardent lover of mountains, but a preeminent sci...
Cho Oyu’s Three-Kilometer-High FaceAndrzej Zawada, Polski Zwiazek AlpinizmuTHE CLIMBING action began on January 4 when Berbeka and Pawlikowski established Camp I on the Lungsampa Glacier, still a fair distance from the face. The fascinating view o...
MAX MAURICE STRUMIA 1896–1972Max Strumia was born in Turin, Italy, September 23, 1896, and died at Bryn Mawr, Pa., on January 13, 1972. He served in the Medical Corps of the Italian Army 1915–21, becoming First Lieutenant. In 1920 he completed the...
CHRIS CHANDLER1948-1985All the clichés applied to Chris—he was physically strong, psychologically tough, and dedicated to the solitude of high montains. But the clichés do not begin to define the extraordinary human being who died on Kangchenjunga...
Kedar Dome, east face attempt. Cameron Lawson, Mark Synnott, and I arrived in the Gangotri during September, finding that a lingering monsoon was greatly shortening any post-monsoon weather window. The objective was the huge rock wall forming the ...
Koksil Sar I (6,176m, Polish Map; 6,152m GPS), west flank and northwest ridge; Koksil Sar II (5,909m GPS), west ridge; Koksil Sar III (5,888m GPS), southeast flank. The Karakoram Highway is probably the longest construction site in the world. Our ...
Yosemite, the Big Trees and the High Sierra: A Selective Bibliography, by Francis P. Farquhar. 104 pages, illustrations. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1948. Price, $7.50.The shortest definition of bibliography is that it is the descrip...
LILLIAN GEST 1898-1986Lillian Gest, last surviving member of a prominent Philadelphia family, died in January, 1986, at age eighty-eight. Many years before, on her graduation from Vassar, she had set out to get a job, but had been stopped by her f...
Aconcagua: South Face, by René Ferlet and Guy Poulet. Translated from the French by E. Nowell Bowman. London: Constable, 1956. ix, 209 pages; ills.; maps. Price 25 s.The climbs of Fitzroy, Huantsan, Chacraraju, Taulliraju, and Aconcagua establish ...
On December 2, the yacht Pelagic sailed out of Punta Arenas due south down the Straits of Magellan toward the western end of the Cordillera Darwin. The skipper and owner was James (Skip) Novak of Chicago. The crew consisted of Britons Hamish, Alex...
Foraker’s Highway of DiamondsPeter MetcalfIT WAS THE EASE with which I accepted the realization, not the realization itself, which perturbed me so. Was it the altitude? The numbed, tired state of my body? Or was it the need to concentrate on immed...
FALL ON SNOWWashington, Mount Rainier, Disappointment CleaverOn July 30 at 1130, Rangers received a 911 call from an independent climbing party at approximately 12,000 feet on the Disappointment Cleaver. The report was that one member of their par...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. 1988 was a productive year for the Harvard Mountaineering Club. Besides local trips to such areas as the Adirondacks, White Mountains, Shawangunks, Baxter State Park and Seneca Rocks, numerous members traveled througho...
Gasherbrum IV, west face to south ridge, attempt. My desire to visit the Baltoro dates from long ago, but many things had to fall into place before it could happen. One night, after a few too many drinks, I managed to convince Jordi Corominas. I h...
The Outdoorman’s Cookbook, Arthur H. Carhart. 8vo., 211 pages and numerous illustrations. New York: The Macmillan Co. Price $1.95.What mainly distinguishes this outdoor cookery book from its predecessors is its frank acceptance of the machine age....
Xuelian massif, various ascents. Following exploration of the north side of the Xuelian massif in 2008 (AAJ 2009), Bruce Normand (Scotland) returned in August 2009 with Americans Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster, and Jared Vilhauer. Goals were the major s...
FALL THROUGH SNOW—SPRUCE TRAP, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—COMPASSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Raymond CataractOn January 9, Kevin Rogers (33) and Mark Landry (30) of Portland, ME, made a successful ascent of Pinnacle Gully Around 1300 the...
Europeans rely on mountain huts while climbing, whereas American climbers camp. The problem the American system is that dispersed tenting has a higher impact on fragile alpine areas than concentrated use around huts. With that in mind, some people...