In March, German climbers Jens Richter, Tino Kohbach, Michael Baensch, and I, accompanied by Brits Tony and Sarah Whitehouse, spent two weeks in the Gran Sabana. Inspired by a Stefan Glowacz report from 2007, describing a 700m first ascent, we cam...
FALL ON ICE, NO CRAMPONSBritish Columbia, Monashee Mountains, Woolsey GlacierOn September 4, 1988, Paul (45) and Don made the six-hour alpine traverse to the Woolsey Glacier. The day was sunny and warm with temperatures in the mid 20’s Celsius. Th...
VANJA FURLAN1966-1996Vanja Furlan who was bom on May 15, 1966, in Novo Mesto in the Republic of Slovenia. He was a member of the Alpine Club Railwaymen from Ljubljana. His relatively short but very intense alpine career was interrupted August 15 w...
The South Face of Mount ForakerTrying harder in the Alaska Rangeby Steve LarsonJuly 4th, 1998, and I am spending the weekend with Joe TerraVecchia sport climbing in Rumney, New Hampshire. We are in the parking lot, outside Joe’s truck. Joe reaches...
Cerro Torre—Alpine StyleJames D. BridwellPATAGONIA IS A LAND where good weather is as precious and rare as water in the Sahara. With rapid weather changes and not infrequent 20- and 30-day storms generating winds well over 100 mph, the line betwee...
Drohmo, First Ascent. Doug Scott and Roger Mear went to a 6855-meter mountain called Drohmo in far eastern Nepal north-northwest of Kangchenjunga. Drohmo was first attempted by Swiss in 1949, but they were unsuccessful, and few climbers have given...
Cerro Cota 2000, Osa ma non Troppo. It’s the same old story…an evening with friends, a couple of photos, a few beers, and then, while driving home, talk about those photos. The next day the four of us were talking about it. Why not go for it?So in...
Cerro Balmaceda and Cerro Paine, Patagonia. An Argentine expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche had expected to attempt the main peak of the Paine group, which they had attempted in 1954 and 1955. Just before leaving for Punta Arenas in mid Octob...
Everest. Our expedition had Karen Fellerhoff and Peter Athans as logistical leaders. The other members were Americans Jeff and Kellie Erwin Rhoads, Andy Lapkiss, Glenn Porzak and Tom Whittaker, Swedes Carl Johan Lager and Mikael Reuterswärd, New Z...
Leaning Towers Group, Southern Selkirks. Chuck Sink and I spent from July 16 to 25 near the Leaning Towers, east of Kootenay Lake. We were ferried across the lake to the outlet of Campbell Creek and the beginning of a 14-mile trek comprised mainly...
The Building of MountainsNoel E. OdellWITH John Ruskin’s dictum in Modern Painters, that mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery, the majority of us mountaineers will surely agree; and a visit to the Ruskin Museum at Conisto...
Hypothermia: The Facts. K.J. Collins. Oxford University Press, New York, 1983. 136 pages, 8 black and white illustrations, charts. $13.95.This is a disappointing book which will satisfy neither the doctor nor the mountaineer. Though apparently wri...
The highlight of climbing activity in Norway during 2010 was undoubtedly the free ascent of Arch Wall on Romsdal’s iconic Trollveggen, the Troll Wall. For some, this ascent was perhaps the most impressive in the history of summer climbing in Norwa...
The Trango Towers in Reviewby John MiddendorfThe impressive rock spires of Great Trango Tower and Trango (a.k.a. Nameless) Tower create one of the wonders of the Earth, capturing the imagination of everyone who travels on the Baltoro Glacier. Grea...
GASTON RÉBUFFAT 1921-1985Gaston Rébuffat, longtime Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club and Officer of the French Legion of Honor, died of cancer, in Paris, on May 31, 1985, at the age of 64.His climbing career spanned half a century and du...
Guy Robertson and I returned to Kyrgyzstan’s Western Kokshaal-Too in late August, intent on finishing what we had started in 2002 on the unclimbed southeast face of Kyzyl Asker (5,842m). With us we brought extra firepower in the form of Pete Benso...
GeographicalDistricts1951-19891990Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta2417353420340British Columbia224884865110Yukon Territory292563000Ontario26650100Quebec18549300East Arctic72200...
Round Mystery Mountain, by Sir Norman Watson and E. J. King. xii + 246 pages, 32 illustrations and 3 maps. London : Edward Arnold & Co., 1935. Price 15s.Here is an enjoyable book, not pretending to be serious record of a scientific expedition,...
Shimshal White Horn, second complete ascent. Alexandra and Mattias Robl and Markus Tannheimer made an ascent of Shimshal White Horn (6,303m) that is apparently only the second complete ascent to the highest point of the mountain. As reported in AA...
FALL ON RAPPEL—LOST CONTROL AND DESCENDED TOO RAPIDLYCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 17, 1992, Robert Moore (42) was rappelling a single 7/16 inch, 820 meter rope down the face of El Capitan when he apparently lost control and ...