Makalu, southeast ridge ascent. After they had abandoned their attempt on the northeast ridge from Tibet, reported elsewhere, Frenchmen Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon decided to try the southeast ridge. It had been in ...
Führer durch das Alpine Museum in München, by Hermann Bühler. 8 vo., 114 pages with illustrations. Munich: Berg- verlag Rudolf Rother, 1941.Since 1938 Dr. Bühler has been director of the museum of the German Alpine Club, a project originated in 19...
Palung Ri, permit confusion. A funny thing happened in connection with the first permit to be issued by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism for Palung Ri. Two unsuspecting New Zealanders, Michael Chapman-Smith and Tim Logan, selected this mountain be...
United States: Climbs in the Pacific Northwest“Fixed” Routes on Faces. In recent years several climbers in the Pacific Northwest have become interested in long, sheer face climbs —for example, the S. Face of Forbidden Peak, the W. Face of Eldorado...
A.A.C., New York Section. Not every year is of vintage quality, but 1989 will surely rank as one of the most memorable in New York Section history. Our illustrated lectures continue a long tradition and give members the opportunity to hear outstan...
Thin White Line. Andy Cave. London: Hutchinson, 2008. 230 pages.Hardcover. $48.50.In 1997, during his descent from the north face of Changabang, in the Garwhal Himalaya, Andy Cave heard a quiet sound. High above, a series of snow slides merged int...
Evighedsfjord, West Greenland. The Göppingen Greenland Expedition was composed of Heiner Schlee, Georg Vlach, Peter Meier, Richard Niebling, Olfert Dorka, Ully Strohm, Rolf Hauff, Monika Haase, Martin Albanus, Reinhard Frick, Fred Bässler, Ilse Dö...
Mt. Walsh, Northwest Ridge, Spring Peak, Jekden Mountain. On May 27, Janez Ales and I flew to the Upper Donjek Glacier, just west of Mt. Walsh (4507m). We set up base camp at 3000 meters. The next day we climbed the standard West Ridge route on Mt...
The 1923 Climb of the Grand TetonAs told to Orrin H. Bonney by David DeLap*In my researches on the history of the Grand Teton, I recently obtained the story of the “three college boys from Missoula, Montana” who, on August 23, 1923, broke the spel...
El Mocho, Southeast Buttress and Mojón Rojo. After 12 days of hiking and waiting for climbing partners, I was graciously asked to join the Australian Patagonian Expedition. We spent the next few days of precious good weather ferrying loads up to B...
Mount Gilbert, Chugach Range. In two successive flights, Lowell Thomas, Jr. took our party, consisting of Helga Bading, Hans Metz, Bob Bailey, Steve Foss and me, from Palmer to 2500 feet on Surprise Glacier. From there our route lay up a tributary...
Mt. Deborah, Northwest Ridge, First Alpine-Style Ascent. In May, during a relatively stable period of weather, Matt Porter and I flew into the head of the Yanert Glacier on the west side of Mt. Deborah. From the 6,200-foot landing area, we left a ...
JOHN ELVIS HARLIN, II1935-1966When John Harlin fell to his death from the Eiger on March 22, 1966, the world of mountaineering, both American and international, lost one of its brightest stars. In the not quite thirty-one years of his life he had ...
Chopicalqui, North Ridge. It was reported that a 12-man Italian team made the first integral ascent of the north ridge of Chopicalqui (6345m). Tarcisco Bello and Giuseppe Tararan reached the main summit on August 1,1996. The team began seiging the...
Between a Rock and a Hard Place. Aron Ralston. Atria Books: New York, 2004.354 pages, with 16 pages of color photos. $26.00This is the book about the guy who cut his arm off, by the guy who cut his arm off. His name is Aron Ralston, and he’s alter...
A Mountaineer’s Route to the Summit of Mt. WhitneyThe completion of the new trail to the top of Mt. Whitney, which enables almost anyone who can ride a horse to reach it, together with the fact that this mountain is the highest in the United State...
RAPPEL FAILURE, BAD WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATEEQUIPMENTWyoming, TetonsAbout 2:30 a.m. on August 28, Don DeMuro (22) died of hypothermia while trying to descend the Petzoldt Ridge on the Grand Teton. He and Mike Katchmar (20) had become benig...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE BELAY AND PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITIONOregon, Smith RocksBill Pesklak (39) and his partner Brian Boshart (25) were working on Titanium Jag, a 5.10b, assigned two stars, an average quality...
North Over Mt. RobsonWilliam R. HainsworthIT is a great satisfaction to recall this mountain adventure with- out a single derogatory thought about the weather. In fact, we were as fortunate in this as in the unplanned sequence of events determinin...
Mount Everest, Ascents and Attempts During the Pre-Monsoon Season. Sixty-seven climbers summitted Everest from the Tibetan side of the mountain in the pre-monsoon (spring) season. Eleven teams, five of which were commercial expeditions accounting ...