Jacobs Ladder, Monument Valley. On May 5 Fred Beckey, Bob Degles and I made the first ascent of this 300-foot tower, which is identical in appearance to Standing Rock in Monument Basin Canyonlands, Utah. NCCS III, F6, A3; 53 pitons, 4 chocks, 7 bo...
California, Yosemite National Park, Lost Arrow Direct. On 6 April Rov Naasz (20) and Andrew Embick (19) were climbing the Lost Arrow. Naasz was leading the last pitch of the South Face. He later described the nailing as very difficult and his thir...
Amfiteatro, Cáscara de Huevo, A Través del Huevo. “So you are back!” Daniel welcomed me with his huge smile. Yes, I was back. I couldn’t forget the beauty of the valley, nice people, and huge amounts of unclimbed rock. Sunniva Hoel Aass (Norwegian...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1972 the club scheduled a greater than usual number of weekend outings at Devils Lake, Wisconsin. The popularity of the club’s campground near the lake brought together many non-members and climbing organization...
Middle Triple, Kichatna Spires, First Ascent by a Woman. On July 12, Michele Morseth and I were flown to the Shadows Glacier of the Kichatna Mountains. We spent the first three days ferrying loads over a pass to the Sunshine Glacier. The next day,...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION (LEADER), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (RELAYER), EXCEEDING ABILITIES, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Canmore Area, East End of RundleOn the evening of Monday, July 8, 1991, rangers at Peter Lougheed P...
ROCKFALL, FALL ON ROCK, BELAYER LOST CONTROL WHEN STRUCK BY ROCKArizona, Prescott National Forest, Granite MountainOn December 12, Elise Anderson (21), Jeff Rome (21), and Chris Shanehof- fer (26), went to climb at Granite Mountain. Their route fo...
Poincenot, complete west ridge (DNV Direct) and Blood on the Tracks, free ascent; Desmochada, variation to The Sound and the Fury. In 2007 I was in the Torre Valley with a large group of Canadians. The weather was cold and dismal, making for less-...
Link Sar and smaller granite towers in the Kondus Valley, attempts. In May-June Steve Larson, George Lowe, Joe Terraveccia, Andy Tuthill, Eric Winkelman, and I explored several possible first ascent routes on Link Sar (7041m) in the Kondus Valley....
Glacier Ice, by Austin Post and Edward LaChapelle. Seattle: The Mountaineers, Seattle-London: University of Washington Press, 1971. 110 pages, 130 photographs and illustrations.Ice is an essential element of the alpine landscape. It is largely res...
Manaslu Attempt. Six Spaniards led by Juan Fernando Azcona tried to climb Manaslu by its northeast face. They got to 6400 meters on October 1.Elizabeth Hawley
Malubiting Central (7,260m), second ascent. On July 25 two Spanish climbers, Raul Magdaleno and Álvaro Novellón, made the second ascent of Malubiting Central. The Malubiting group is a complex of high and rarely visited summits on the watershed ri...
Skiing Off Mount Everest. In the pre-monsoon season, German Reinhard Patscheider skied down the normal South Col route on Mount Everest from 8400 meters. His record was beaten on September 27 when Frenchman Pierre Tardivel skied from the South Sum...
Argentine-Chilean PatagoniaAvalanche Tragedy, below El Tronador, above Bariloche. On April 25, a group of ten young Argentine climbers were camped in snow caves on the side of the Vieja Ridge on el Tronador. This was a training course for high-mou...
Dolomites—Selected Climbs. Ron James. The Alpine Club, London, 1988.(Distributed by Cordee, 3 De Montfort Street, Leicester LE1 7HD,England.) 60 pages, black-and-white photographs. $22.50 (post paid).Bravissimo to the Alpine Club for being midwife...
Mount Bear, Ascent, and South to North Traverse. Our superb pilot, Paul Claus, of Ultima Thule Outfitters, dropped the three of us (Ruedi Homberger, Hansueli Brunner and I) off May 12, 1995, on the glacier system that drains the south side of Moun...
The Saint Bernard Monks are reported to be making progress with their plans for a branch establishment on the Sila Pass on the border between Tibet and Szechuan. The group which went out in January, 1933, reported favorably on the project. The act...
The Crown (Huang Guan Feng) Attempt and Tragedy. A Himalayan Association of Japan expedition, led by Hideo Tateno, attempted the Crown (7265 meters, 23,835 feet) by its southern face. The members were Hideo Tateno, Jasuhiro Hashimoto, Dr. Isao Sug...
A massif of high peaks, which forms the Nepal-Tibet border southwest of the Nangpa La, is generally unnamed on maps, although one of the northerly summits, 6,781m, is sometimes referred to as Jobo Rinjang (also Ribjang or Rabzang) and on the outda...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAYCalifornia, Temple CragOn October 4, Gary Niblock, Mike Nichols (both 48) and Mark Harris (42) were climbing an ice chute northwest of Temple Crag. About 1300, Harris reached the top first and began watching his friend...