French Himalaya Expedition, 1936. This expedition sponsored and financed by the Club Alpin Français, and composed of Henri de Ségogne, leader; Pierre Allain, Dr. Jean Arland, Jean Carle, Jean Charignon, Armand Charlet, Paul Gayet-Tancrède (Samivel...
FALL ON ROCK – HIKING TURNS INTO CLIMBING TERRAIN, INEXPERIENCEOregon, North SisterOn September 24, Brian C. Jones (37) slipped on the 35-degree friable volcanic rock slope below the summit of North Sister and tumbled down about 1,000 vertical fee...
Bhrikuti Sail is one of many summits of a similar height in the Lugula Range, situated on a long ridge that runs approximately west-northwest from Lugula itself and ending with the various 6,300m summits of the Kumlun Himal. This area of Nepal was...
Witches Tower, Northeast Face. In August, 1976, Bob Gundrum, Paul McKnight, Dave Fox and I completed a new route on this face, starting in the lower left of the face. We had several hundred feet of easier climbing until we crossed the central depr...
Mt. Hoffman, North Face, Meteor Shower. The north face of Mt. Hoffman is a wide face with many potential lines. In August, Sarah Schneider and I established what we believe to be the fourth technical route on the face, the farthest left one done t...
Peak 10552, Sentinel Turret, Omega Tower. This short route, climbed on August 11 by Barry Corbet and Rick Medrick, attacked the short, steep face of the flatiron-like tower on the right (north) side of the eastern fringe of the rock which culminat...
RAPPEL FAILURE—CARABINER “UNCLIPPED,” INADEQUATE BELAY Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, SupremacyOn July 11,1994, a climber was teaching a person (37) how to rappel. Several successful rappels were completed before the carabiner/sling system ...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. After six years of planning and construction, Silcox Hut on Mount Hood’s upper slope is 95% complete. The restoration group, “Friends of Silcox Hut,” include A.A.C. members Dick Pooly, Lew McArthur, Neil Cramer and myself. ...
The following data on the Lake Louise area correct and supplement the 1940 edition of the Guidebook and are based on information contained in the extracts from Christian Kaufmann’s Fiihrerbucli, printed in this issue, as well as in the account by ...
Chimney Tower, P 5480 and Doonerak, Endicott Mountains, Central Brooks Range. In August bad weather prevented us from flying from Betties to the Franklin Mountains and so we visited the Endicott Mountains. We climbed Chimney Tower, P 5480 (1½ mile...
Mount Fairweather, 1981. Kim Grandfield, Dave Lunn and I climbed the classic south (Carpé) ridge in a light-weight expedition which began with a beach landing on May 17, 1981. Due to bad flying weather and confused geography, we landed at the next...
Colorado, Turkey Creek Canyon (2)—On September 20, Donald E. Powell (18) was killed while descending into Turkey Creek Canyon from U.S. 285. The boy apparently lost his footing on steep grass. He was exploring in the area with relatives. It was es...
FALL ON ROCKBritish Columbia, Garibaldi Park, Diamond HeadCharlotte Ackerely (32) and three companions were climbing an easy but loose and exposed route on Diamond Head about 0530 on 15 July 1979. Ackerely fell off the west side of the ridge, a di...
Cathedral Peak (Okanogan), South Face. While reading through an International Boundary Survey Report published near the turn of the century, a photograph of a high horn-like granite peak just south of the Canadian boundary more than attracted my e...
Dhaulagiri I, Solo Attempt in Winter. Swiss Franco Dellatorre proposed to make a solo ascent of the standard Northeast Ridge route of Dhaulagiri (8167 meters). He had assumed that he would be able to use the ropes that had been fixed by the teams ...
Devil’s Thumb, West Greenland. Last summer I led our third Italian Greenland expedition, consisting of Jean Bich, Antonio Carrel, Camillo Pellissier, Pierino Pession, guide in Valtournanche, Dr. Paolo Cerretelli, physiologist, Piero Nava and Mario...
Mount Adams, Southwest Chute. On the southwest side of Mount Adams, between the Avalanche Glacier and the regular south-side climbing route, lies a shallow gulley called the Southwest Chute. In years long past, this was a finger of the Avalanche G...
Death Canyon. Three more difficult rock climbs have been made on the readily accessible cliffs on the north side of the canyon entrance. The first was made by Michael and Jane Yokell on July 20, 1969, on the south face of Sentinel Turret. A total ...
Ausangate Attempt, Campa I and Mariposa, In early August we attempted to climb Ausangate (20,945 feet) from the south. Waist-deep powder snow kept us from climbing to more than 17,725 feet, 150 feet above our highest camp. In retrospect we know th...
Yanapacha, West Face. It was reported that the three-man team of Caffarena/Kleinberg/Mauriz climbed a possible new route on the west face of Yanapacha (5460m) in the Llanganuco Valley. The route had sections of 80° and a rock pitch V+ that was avo...