Glacier Studies in Alaska, 1957Melvin G. Marcus* UNTIL recent years, glacier studies byAmerican scientists have been concentrated in the Southeastern Alaska region. Members of the American Alpine Club have followed these activities wi...
DEHYDRATION–INADEQUATE WATER, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 22, Mark Gunlogson (41) and I, Micha Miller (41), started up New Dawn wall (VI 5.8 A3) on El Captain. The weather before our ascent had been unseasonably warm...
Torres del Paine, Various Ascents. Sylvain Empereur and I flew from Lyon, France, to Punta Arenas, Chile, on October 12. Two days later, we reached the Japanese Base Camp in the Silencio Valley (to reach the camp, we had to pay U.S. $80 each to en...
Lithuanian-American Exchange. In August, a team of Lithuanian mountaineers arrived in the United States to climb in the Cascades, despite some last-minute complications in Moscow. They were Dainius Makauskas, Rimvydas Simutis, Vilius Saduikis, Kes...
Altitude Illness— 1976 VersionCharles S. Houston, M.D.AS more and more thousands of people easily and speedily reach high mountain ranges which previously were almost inaccessible, the incidence of high altitude illness has also increased. It is p...
On July 14 Dutch climbers Jefta Smit, Sjors Verbrugge, and I arrived in the Tupaassat Valley, situated at the end of the Kangikitsoq Fjord. Our first objective was a direct line on the 1,500m west pillar of Peak 2,106m, which I’d spotted three yea...
Pumori Attempt. The two Dutch climbing members, leader Joost Pielage and Bart Jordans, never really got onto the mountain in their attempt on the east face of Pumori. On May 7 they went to the foot of the face and decided that the danger of fallin...
Tupilak, first ascent of the North face and quasi-winter ascent of Rodebjerg. In 2001, a four-man British team comprising Jon Bracey, Charles “Stan Halstead, Jon Morgan, and Al Powell opted to spend the early part of the year in the Tupilak region...
The Conquest of Everest, by Sir John Hunt, with a chapter on the final assault by Sir Edmund Hillary, and foreword by H. R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh. XX + 300 pages, 79 photos, including 8 in color, 28 sketches, and 4 sketch maps. New York: E. P. ...
In March, German climbers Jens Richter, Tino Kohbach, Michael Baensch, and I, accompanied by Brits Tony and Sarah Whitehouse, spent two weeks in the Gran Sabana. Inspired by a Stefan Glowacz report from 2007, describing a 700m first ascent, we cam...
FALL ON ICE, NO CRAMPONSBritish Columbia, Monashee Mountains, Woolsey GlacierOn September 4, 1988, Paul (45) and Don made the six-hour alpine traverse to the Woolsey Glacier. The day was sunny and warm with temperatures in the mid 20’s Celsius. Th...
VANJA FURLAN1966-1996Vanja Furlan who was bom on May 15, 1966, in Novo Mesto in the Republic of Slovenia. He was a member of the Alpine Club Railwaymen from Ljubljana. His relatively short but very intense alpine career was interrupted August 15 w...
The South Face of Mount ForakerTrying harder in the Alaska Rangeby Steve LarsonJuly 4th, 1998, and I am spending the weekend with Joe TerraVecchia sport climbing in Rumney, New Hampshire. We are in the parking lot, outside Joe’s truck. Joe reaches...
Cerro Torre—Alpine StyleJames D. BridwellPATAGONIA IS A LAND where good weather is as precious and rare as water in the Sahara. With rapid weather changes and not infrequent 20- and 30-day storms generating winds well over 100 mph, the line betwee...
Drohmo, First Ascent. Doug Scott and Roger Mear went to a 6855-meter mountain called Drohmo in far eastern Nepal north-northwest of Kangchenjunga. Drohmo was first attempted by Swiss in 1949, but they were unsuccessful, and few climbers have given...
Cerro Cota 2000, Osa ma non Troppo. It’s the same old story…an evening with friends, a couple of photos, a few beers, and then, while driving home, talk about those photos. The next day the four of us were talking about it. Why not go for it?So in...
Cerro Balmaceda and Cerro Paine, Patagonia. An Argentine expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche had expected to attempt the main peak of the Paine group, which they had attempted in 1954 and 1955. Just before leaving for Punta Arenas in mid Octob...
Everest. Our expedition had Karen Fellerhoff and Peter Athans as logistical leaders. The other members were Americans Jeff and Kellie Erwin Rhoads, Andy Lapkiss, Glenn Porzak and Tom Whittaker, Swedes Carl Johan Lager and Mikael Reuterswärd, New Z...
Leaning Towers Group, Southern Selkirks. Chuck Sink and I spent from July 16 to 25 near the Leaning Towers, east of Kootenay Lake. We were ferried across the lake to the outlet of Campbell Creek and the beginning of a 14-mile trek comprised mainly...
The Building of MountainsNoel E. OdellWITH John Ruskin’s dictum in Modern Painters, that mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery, the majority of us mountaineers will surely agree; and a visit to the Ruskin Museum at Conisto...