FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKWashington, Nooksack TowerOn August 26, 1984, Joe Catellani (30) and Mark Bebie (31) ascended Nooksack Tower by noon. They made the first 50 meter rappel at 1230 and began down climbing Class 3 rock to the next rappel sta...

Tocllaraju, Southwest Face. The expedition of our newly founded Club de Montañeros Américo Tordoya placed a Base Camp in the Quebrada Ishinca. While we climbed Urus and Tocllaraju by the normal routes, Mario Masuelos and Gonzalo Menacho headed for...

Mount Foraker, First Winter Ascent, Southeast Ridge. A Mountaineering Club of Alaska party was flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on February 13. It consisted of Steve and Gary Tandy, Don and Dave Pahlke, Larry Tedrick, Brian Miskil and Gaylan McCord. ...

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT Colorado, FlatironsOn May 19,1986, a male climber fell while doing a roped ascent of the second Flatiron in Boulder. He suffered a head injury, which caused him to be argumentative, profane, and combative during his evacu...

Kharchakund, North Ridge. Bobby Gilbert, Rob Tresidder, Pete Scott and I made the first ascent alpine-style of the north ridge of Kharchakund (6612 meters, 21,695 feet). It was the third ascent of the peak, which had previously been climbed twice ...

Diran. Our expedition made the third ascent of Diran (also called Minapin) above the Hunza valley in the northwest Karakoram. Base Camp was at 11,500 feet and Advance Base was placed four miles up the glacier at 12,800 feet on June 17. We tried un...

Siula Grande, west face nearly to summit ridge. Dutch climbers Eva Oomen and Rogier van Rijn made an attempt on the west face of Siula Grande (6,348m), climbing 800m in nine hours on July 31. They climbed (ED 90°+) to the left of the three existin...

Paine Towers, Torre Norte and New Route on the Torre Central, West Face, 1990-1. Our expedition of Spanish Basques was active in the Paine Towers in late 1990 and early 1991. On December 8, 1990, Guillermo Bañales and I ascended the Italian route ...

Malangutti Sar. On August 12 a Japanese expedition made the first ascent of Malangutti Sar (c. 7025 meters, 23,048 feet). The leader Tadao Sugimoto, Kengo Nakahara, Yasushi Muranaka and Ang Nima Sherpa got to the summit.

Fitz Roy, new route attempt. We made two trips to Patagonia to climb the Northwest Pillar of Fitz Roy. On the first trip the team consisted of Nicolas Fabbri, Jérôme Huet, and me. We three returned in late 2004, adding a feminine touch in the pers...

Kamet and Abi Gamin. An all-Indian expedition made a remarkable record in Garhwal in 1955, accomplishing the second ascent of Kamet (25,447 feet) and the third ascent of Abi Gamin (24,130 feet). The party under the direction of Major Narendra D. J...

Sugarloaf Mountain, Southeast Ridge, Selkirks. After a week in the Clemenceau Icefield area where poor snow conditions kept a group of us from doing the final few hundred feet of the northeast ridge of Mount Clemenceau, John Rupley and I decided t...

Georgia—Stone Mountain: On August 13, 1952 L. J. Williams (35) and a friend walked to the top of Stone Mountain, arriving at the summit late in the day. They inquired if there was a short route down and were told, “A set of steps leads directly to...

STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 6, 1992, Joe P. and Martin L. climbed the east ridge of Mount Temple (3544 meters) but stalled at 2000 when they reached the Black Towers, unsure if they were...

Dhaulagiri Tragedy. Two Catalans, Andorran Francesc Dalmases and Spaniard Jordi Cañameras, hoped to climb the west face of Dhaulagiri in the post-monsoon season. This route is technically difficult and was particularly so in the bad weather. In la...

Llongote Central, Cordillera Yauyos. Seven members of the High Mountain Club of Lódz took part in the expedition: Wojciech Jedlinski, Bogdan Mac, Piotr Malinowski, Marek Rozniecki, Jerzy Star, Grzegorz Wasiak and I as leader. On May 29, 1974 we pl...

Meru Shark’s Fin, yet another attempt. British climbers Jon Bracey, Julian Cartwright and Matt Dickinson approached this attractive rock face from the Gangotri Glacier and established base camp on September 16 . The team was quickly reduced to two...

Swagarohini I, South Face Attempt. An Indian team led by Arun Samant attempted the unclimbed south face of Swaragohini. Two separate attempts were made on the left ridge of the snow gully on the south face. Bad weather stopped the first try at 550...

Gurkarpo Winter Attempt, Jugal Himal. Eight South Koreans led by Chun Young-Ho attempted to climb little-known Gurkarpo (6891 meters, 22,608 feet) by its southwest ridge. They were stopped at 6100 meters on December 8 by a 500-meter-high rock wall...

BLOCK OF ICE CALVED OFF - FALL ON ICEWashington, North Cascades National Park, Torment-Forbidden TraverseOn August 9, AMGA Instructor Pool member, Certified Rock Guide and former member of the AMGA Board of Directors, Craig Luebben (49), died of i...