P 13,680+, Mount Sill, Mount Mendel and Other climbs, 1990. In June, 1990, Ken Kenega and I climbed a dihedral on P 13,680+ for seven pitches on the right of the Rowell route (III, 5.10a). In July, Kevin Malone and I did a direct finish of Mount S...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. An expedition from the Slovenskega Planinskega Drustva Trst (Slovene Mountain Club of Trieste) led by Luciano Cergol tried to climb Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South) by its southwest ridge. Cergol and Luciano Milic rea...
El Potrero Chico, Feral Dover Ridge and Monster Truck. Feral Dover Ridge (15 pitches, 5. 10dX, Cindy Tolle and I, September) starts on Dope Ninja and follows the ridge for 2,000' to the summit of the Sense of Religion Wall (it’s essentially a cont...
Changla, First Ascent. In the autumn, the west summit of Changla in northwestern Nepal on the border with Tibet was successfully scaled for the first time. Changla had been attempted only once before, 15 years ago, by Japanese, who are believed to...
Bhagirathi II. We established Base Camp at Nandanban on August 24, Camp I at 16,650 feet on August 30 and Camp II at 19,020 feet on the southeast ridge on September 1. On September 3, Swapan Kumar Ghosh, Sher Singh Rawat, Ashok Ghosh, high-altitud...
Northeast Face of Teewinot Mountain. William and Evelyn Cropper and John Dietschy climbed this impressive face July 13, 1957 directly up its center. This significant new route proved to be moderately difficult.
Passes over the Central Asian Watershed, First Crossings. John Mock and Kimberley O’Neil completed a 29-day exploration of the Ghujerab Mountains in the northern Karakoram Range northeast of the Shimshal Pass and west of the Shaksgam (Muztagh) and...
Kangchenjunga Traverses. The second Soviet Himalayan expedition had 32 members, of whom 22 climbers spent two years of hard training and high- altitude acclimatization in the Caucasus, Pamir and Tien Shan. The leader was Eduard Myslovsky, who in 1...
Totem Pole, Monument Valley. Ken Wyrick and I were hired by Universal Studios to “put the rope up” for the filming of the desert part of the movie Eiger Sanction. We spent 14 days on the Totem Pole and its nearby walls. Our duties were primarily t...
Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090m), southeast face, Yel-la Sadike; south face, Kabir Hajar. I knew little about climbing in Oman until January 3,2008 when Pavle Kozjek showed me a picture of Jabal Misht. Things then progressed fast, and by the 20...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE New Hampshire, Canon CliffOn October 16, 1988, Marc Fragge (23) and Joel Sunshine (24) were killed when the granite block they had anchored to apparently came off. One was rappelling and the other was tied off, waiting to rap...
High Altitude Deterioration. J. Rivolier, P. Cerretelli, J. Foray, and P. Segantini, editors. Karger, New York. 1985. 227 pages, many diagrams and tables. $65.00.In March 1984 some 350 doctors and climbers from 20 countries met in Chamonix to hear...
Negruni Group, Huayna Potosí, Chearoco, Casiri, Illampu, Pico del Norte, Cordillera Real, 1973. From June to August 1973 the Württemberg Friends of Nature Expedition carried out its Bolivian Expedition. Günter Schnait, Dr. Alexander Schlee, Georg ...
FALLS, FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATPennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap N.R.A.There continues to be more climbing and off-trail hiking in this reservation. Two of the three reports we received involved rappels. In May, a 17 year old female was climbing u...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE PULLED THROUGH BELAY DEVICEColorado, Clear Creek Canyon, Wall of the 90'sOn March 10, I (36) had successfully climbed the route Hot Stuff (5.10c). My two partners and I were climbing on a 70m rope, a standard length for this rou...
P 5705, Tokosha Mountains. My Dad dropped Dr. Richard Griffith and me off by plane on Home Lake, which is along the Tokositna River five miles south of the higher peaks of the Tokoshas and 5500 feet lower than Tokosha Peak. We had cached a canoe t...
Kings Canyon, Windy Cliff—On August 27, 1954, Roy Arnold (approx. 30) and Ed Barnes (approx. 30) rappeled down the face of Windy Cliff in Kings Canyon in an effort to get at the entrance of Cliff Cave which is located near the top but on the face ...
Colorado National Monument, Various Ascents. One of the most beautiful areas for desert climbing, Colorado National Monument has traditionally been overlooked by the majority of desert climbers. Not entirely, however. Each year the deep sandstone ...
Mount Raleigh, Coast Range. Werner Himmelsbach, John Owen, Jim Woodfield, and I of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club, flew from Campbell River to Icewall Lake, some 30 miles southeast of the head of Bute Inlet. This was a hazardous landing ...
Ombigaichen, first recorded ascent of newly opened peak and first winter ascent. Ombigaichen (6,340m) is one of the new trekking peaks authorized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association in 2002. Our expedition consisted of Charles Burr (U.K.), Jo ...