FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, HURRYING, WEATHER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, BookendOn August 12, 1994, about noon, Bob Koppe (51) slipped on wet rock while leading the third pitch (5.8) of Melvin's Wheel III 5.8+ on the Bookend d...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The major highlights of 1991 in the facilities area were the renovation and re-opening of Fay Hut and the Water, Energy and Waste Management Symposium (WEWMS). The first hut built by the A.C.C. (1927), the Fay Hut, was f...
Peaks near Mount Chamberlin, Philip Smith-Rom.anz.of Area, Brooks Range. I established Base Camp on the upper Hulahula River on May 27, 1980, hoping to climb a few of the yet unclimbed mountains. P 8300+, the southernmost 8000-foot peak of the Cha...
FALLING ROCK, BAD WEATHERBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. BryceHector Allison (27) and Norman Letnik (22) started climbing the 7,000-foot north face of Mt. Bryce on 1 August 1979. On the first day, they climbed the first 4,000 feet and bivou...
Pucaraju, Hot Line. In May and June, Nahuel Campitelli and Marcos Frischknecht from Bariloche, Argentina, made a (possible) third ascent (with some new pitches) of Hot Line, a couloir/gully with decomposing rock and little ice on Pucaraju (5400m)....
Cerro Mismi and Other Peaks, Ancient and Modern Ascents. During 1977 I ascended several volcanoes in southern Peru and found on their summits traces of Inca occupancy. On Mismi (5596 meters, 18,360 feet), at the extreme southeast end of the Chila ...
Correction. The accounts .of the ascents of Kedarnath Dome and of Ronti which appeared in A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, pp. 216-7 were misplaced since both of these peaks lie in Garhwal.
Attempt on Kangbachen. A 12-man Yugoslav expedition, led by Joze Govekar, attacked Kangbachen, the 25,926-foot west peak of Kangchen- junga. Colonel James Roberts has kindly sent us details. They left Dharan Bazar in eastern Nepal in mid-August, g...
Sita Chuchura. A Nippon University expedition made the first ascent of 21,978-foot Sita Chuchura, the second peak west of the French Col. The leader was Kiyoshi Seita and members included Masahiko Takahashi, Nobuyuki Hirato, Hiroshi Harada, Norio ...
Mount Logan Glaciology Project. Our party members were M. Demuth, R. Glykherr, B. Sheffield, G. Ferguson and me. Beginning on May 9 on the upper Quintano Sella Glacier, we dug and sampled snow pits at Base Camp, King Trench, King Col, Northwest Co...
Peak 12,893, East Face. This impressive 1200-foot wall is on the Great Western Divide north of Mount Brewer. Jeanne Neale and I climbed it in a long day early in September 1971. A short icefield was encountered at the base of the wall and also ris...
P 6206, Thui Group. James Fotheringham and I climbed P 6206 (20,360 feet), which is situated between Thui I and Thui II. We went from Base Camp at Sholtali along the Aghost Bar Glacier to the Qualandar Gum Glacier and from there directly onto the ...
Motion pictures: “Black Narcissus” and “Climbing the Matterhorn.” This is the first time that professional motion pictures have been reviewed in the A.A.J., but two which have recently come before our eyes require some mention.Black Narcissus, tak...
Manaslu Northeast-Face Attempt. A Colombian expedition of nine was led by Carlos Eduardo Gómez. They attempted the normal route. The maximum altitude reached was 7250 meters, where Camp IV was established. It was reached by Manuel Arturo Barrios a...
Putha Hiunchuli. The Seppyo Alpine Club Expedition was composed of Masahiro Kobayashi, Shuji Yasukawa, Kenzo Ishikawa, Satoshi Nara, Takashi Chigai, Hiroshi Aoki, Hidemitu Yamaguchi and me as leader. We placed Base Camp up the Kaphe Khola at 14,45...
Bhagirathi II Tragedy. Dariusz Kubik, Marek Raganowicz, Jan Nowak, Miroslaw Dasal and I as leader hoped to ascend alpine-style the still unclimbed 1200-high west face of Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,364 feet) in ten or twelve days. The lower par...
PAUL VAN ANDAPaul Van Anda, an American Alpine Club member since 1933, died on January 21, 1982 in Salt Lake City. He was an estate and corporation lawyer who lived in Upper Nyack, New York. He was educated at Phillips Exeter Academy, Harvard Coll...
Tsaranoro Be, new routes. The prominent series of corners that form the right side of the Yellow Pillar left of Gondwanaland was climbed in May by South Africans, Alard Hüfner, Mike Mason, and Matthew Munting. This “classic” line had been attempte...
Shah-i-Anjuman. An expedition from the Iwate Medical University Alpine Club, led by Yukata Yasui, made the second ascent of Shah-i- Anjuman (19,772 feet) on July 28 by a new route. The summiters were Toshinori Takahashi, Tomoaki Fujioka, Hitohiro ...
Karun Koh Attempt. Towering over the mountains around it at 7350 metres (24,115 feet), Karun Koh lies north of the main Karakoram chain. It is only open to joint expeditions. It had been attempted only once, by an Austrian expedition led by Robert...