K2 from the North. A report on this American-Australian ascent of the north face of K2 appears as a full article earlier in this volume.K2. A 12-man Japanese expedition led by Tomaji Ueki climbed the northwest face of K2. They established Base Cam...
From December 23, 2008, to January 8, 2009, a six-member Korean expedition, led by Kang Sung-woo, attempted a new route on the southwest face of Gaurishankar. They planned to follow a line to the right of the 1984 American- Nepalese route (Wayne C...
STRANDED—ROPES JAMMED, HASTE—TO TRY TO CATCH THIEVES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO KNIFECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn September 13, Chris Heck (39) and Michael Taylor (28) set out to climb the Central Pillar of Fren2y on Middle ...
Everest Attempt. An expedition of nine Americans and a Canadian led by Daniel Larson attempted the North Col route on Everest but were turned back at 8200 meters on May 28.Elizabeth Hawley
The Incredible Hulk, Positive Vibrations. Bob Harrington and I climbed this route in August. The first three pitches coincide with a previous route that starts with several hundred feet of Class 4 climbing a short distance to the right of the orig...
FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND NUT FAILUREOntario, Bon Echo ParkMike Tschipper (16) was leading the last pitch, grade 5.10, of a route on Mazinaw Rock in the late afternoon of 16 October 1977. Neither he nor his belayer, Rob Rohn (19), were wearing hard ...
Annapurna, 14th for Viesturs, accident. The well-known American mountaineer Ed Viesturs went to Cho Oyu to acclimatize and then quickly to his last 8,000er, Annapurna I. The north face of this 8,091m mountain, the 10th highest in the world, is not...
Thalay Sagar Attempts. Five expeditions attempted unsuccessfully to climb Thalay Sagar (6904 meters, 22,650 feet) in 1994. The attempt of three Italians led by Giancarlo Ruffino is given below. Also unsuccessful were South Koreans led by Ha Chan-S...
Aguja de la S. On January 15, 1996, I soloed a route on la S from the west. From the standard high bivy spot below Inominata, I climbed the long snow couloir between St. Exupery and la S. From the notch at the top I climbed the normal pitch (rock ...
The Mountaineers. Early in 1992, The Mountaineers published the fifth edition of Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, which for more than 30 years has been the definitive, comprehensive textbook for beginning and intermediate mountaineers thr...
Kaluxung, first ascent. To celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Alpine Club of Keio University, Teietu Yakuwa led an expedition to unclimbed Kaluxung [6,647m; 6,671m on the Mi Deshing map—Ed.], south of Nojin Kangsang, approximately 150km southwe...
Cotopaxi, First (?) Ascent to the Highest Point, 1929. On page 164 of the A.A.J., 1962, Professor Evelio Echevarría states about Cotopaxi: “It has been debated whether this peak has been so far climbed, because all expeditions have reached the rim...
Fisher Towers, The Titan, Sundevil Chimney, first free ascent. The Fisher Towers represent a Daliesque dream barely metamorphosed into rock. The highest tower, the Titan, is the highest free-standing tower in the U.S. and, in my opinion, is unique...
Red Mountain and North Crested Butte, Monte Cris to Group, Cascades. In spite of twenty years of concentrated climbing in the Cascades, several minor but interesting summits have been overlooked. In October 1958 Tony Hovey and Klindt Vielbig made ...
NUT OR CHOCK PULLED OUT, POOR POSITIONNorth Carolina, Moore's Wall, Sentinel Buttress, Zoo ViewOn September 2, Ron Lantham (37) and friends were climbing Zoo View, (5.8) a popular climb on Sentinel Buttress. After completing the first pitch, Lanth...
Alaska, Mt. Huntington. On the night of July 30 Ed Bernd (20) and Dave Roberts (22) were descending Mt. Huntington’s west face after reaching the summit. Don Jensen and Matt Hale, the other two members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club expedition...
Pt. 6,000' ofMt. Yukla, Gank’d and Slayed. Often the crux of climbing in Alaska is finding a partner with the same goals and ambitions. Things came together for John Kelley and me in the second week of February, 2007, and we headed out to the nort...
Yukshin Gardan Sar Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Shigenobu Otake, leader, Tetsuya Nisiyama, Hiroshi Hori, Kaneyuki Sugimoto, Kosuke Kamio and me. We made the approach from Nagar to Temporary Base Camp (13,775 feet) on the Kunyang Glacier...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. A 15-man Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Has- egawa failed to climb Dhaulagiri by the normal northeast-ridge route. Hasegawa and Shinishi Ishi made a bid for the summit on November 3 from Camp III at 24,600 feet and reached 2...
Canadian Rockies, summary. The variable weather of summer 2002 defied forecasting but paved the way for a remarkable fall. July saw some notable ascents in the front range. The northeast aspect of Mt. Rundle is lined with rock buttresses up to 500...