Huandoy Norte, Pisco. The expedition of the Klub Wysokogórski, Posnan, led by Stanislaw Zierhoffer, had hoped to climb the south face of Huandoy Sur, but found that it had already been done. They turned to Huandoy Norte. On August 17 and 18, 1976 ...
Mt. Hooker, Brain Larceny, Second Ascent, and Buffalo Head, East Face, The Skeptic. Cameron Teague and I made the second ascent of Brain Larceny (Donahue-Harvey, 1994) free in one day on August 25. The grade was confirmed at V 5.12R. The line foll...
Mount Russell. In late September Alan Bartlett and I climbed two new routes on the west side of this peak. 1). Bloody Corner. Just left of the Direct Southwest Buttress route is an obvious steep dihedral, the crux of our route. Climb up for a few ...
Tombstone Mountains Correction. On the last line of page 161 of A.A.J., 1982 Mount Monolith is incorrectly given as Mount Mordith.
Colorado, Dome Peak, Boulder Canyon—On August 7, Dan Sawtelle (17) and Larry West (17) climbed Dome Peak. They established a rappel by driving in two pitons and running a sling between them. West rappelled first successfully. Sawtelle then rappell...
Mount Sir Sandford, East Ridge, Selkirks. On our 18-day trip we made the first ascent of the east ridge of Sir Sandford and what is believed to be the second crossing of Austerity Glacier, by which Palmer climbed Austerity in 1911. We followed Pal...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE KNOTColorado, Ouray Ice ParkOn March 19, Greg Kowalsky (age unknown) fell 70 feet when his knot came undone as he was preparing to be lowered by his partner who was belaying him from the ground.Despite efforts of emergency ...
Chogolisa Attempt. On August 5, my partner Andrew Brash (Canada) and I reached Chogolisa Base Camp on the Baltoro Glacier. Our objective was to try a new route on the northeast face. This was quickly put to bed when we watched avalanches strafe ou...
Pinnacle Peak. Our group of fifteen traveled by bus over the White Pass-Yukon route and up the Alaska Highway to the air strip at Kluane Lake only to learn that our first objective, Mount King George, had just been climbed. We became a climbing ex...
Wyoming, Tetons, Symmetry Spire (2). On July 15 John Biehn and Albert Sickler (31) had completed a successful ascent of Symmetry Spire and were descending via the Symmetry Spire Couloir. They were glissading down the snowfield when Sickler slipped...
Pucahirca Oeste, Tayapampa, Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca. We arrived in the Quebrada Tayapampa towards the end of May, setting up Base Camp in the disused campamento on the shore of Pucacocha at 14,750 feet. Jim Jolly, our leader, who was suffering...
AMS–ASCENDING TOO FAST, CLIMBING "ALONE"–BUT DEPENDING UPON OTHERSAlaska, Mount McKinley, Denali PassOn June 25 at 1940, Ranger Meg Perdue received a radio call from Volunteer Ranger Karen Hilton at the 17,200-foot high camp regarding a solo climb...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Bernard Dufour, Philippe Gérard, Dr. Eric Lasserre, Guy Peters, Gérard Pétrignet, Jean Raphoz, Gérard Vincent and me as leader. Unfortunately heavy snow on the southeast ridge forced us to give up...
Liberty Bell, Northeast Face. In June of 1966 the Barber Pole Route was climbed by Sandy Bill, Frank Tarver, and Cindy Wade. From thetop of the Bong (the large rock projection at the base of the northeast face) the route goes upwards to a ledge wh...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Canmore, Mount Fable, Southeast RidgeOn August 28, F.L. and S.H. were climbing the Southeast Ridge of Mount Fable (Alpine II, 5.5). F.L states: “ When we got to the base of the buttress, it wa...
Phuparash. The members of the Charlotte Mason College Himalayan Expedition were Dave Robbins, deputy leader, Linda Rutland, Mike Rafferty, Tony Mercer, John Whittock, Dr. John Burslem, Captain Kayani, liaison officer, and I as leader. The original...
Coast Range, Waddington Group. Amid considerable activity (46 ascents) by a large Harvard Mountaineering Club party (21 people), based on the upper Tellot Glacier during an unusually fine four weeks, a few new routes and attempts were made. On Aug...
Mount Everest, Winter Attempt, 1981. Six Japanese climbers and five scientists and reporters, led by Naomi Uemura, failed to make the second winter ascent of Mount Everest by the South Col. They climbed the Khumbu Icefall and made Camp I at 19,850...
Middle Chief, Main South Peak. Located south of Dutch Miller Gap between Summit Chief and Little Big Chief, the true summit of this peak is about 2 feet higher and 75 feet south of the normally accepted summit. It is virtually unattainable except ...
In August Brent Obinger and I completed a new free line on the Incredible Hulk. Jonny Copp and I had started this line in July 2006, but had had to turn back slightly below mid-height due to incipient seams and no bolt kit.Amazingly, with all the ...