Huandoy, Attempt on South Face. The French Cordillera Blanca Expedition, organized by the Groupe de Haute Montagne, tried in vain from June 15 to July 15 to ascend the very difficult south face of Huandoy. This imposing 3000-foot vertical rock wal...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 3, 1985, Joseph Palmer (23) was killed when he took a leader fall on Aftershock. Palmer had selected Aftershock (5.11b) because he was currently working on leading at tha...
Cerro Cajón Perdido. Attempts. More than 20 climbers, which included Italians from Venice and Argentinians from the town of General Alvear, joined forces for a campaign among the little known peaks of the southern part of the province. They climbe...
Snafflehound, Southeast Ridge, Vowell Group. In one long August day Mark Weigelt, Dave Anderson, Steve Barnett and I made the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Snafflehound, which rises from the glacial cirque. The climb started some 150 feet...
Note on Bridge Climbing. The region of southern Utah and northern Arizona is famous for its scenic attractions. Colorful mesas, cliffs and canyons occur in great profusion, and many of them are well known to the travelling public. This sandstone w...
North Peary Land, first ascents, a traverse of the peninsula, and confirmation of the world’s most northerly peak. Our nine-person Return To The Top Of The World Expedition landed at Frigg’s Fjord, then traversed the peninsula to the north, going ...
During four weeks in the summer of 2006, Anna Backlund and I climbed on gneiss walls in the Tupilak area, Schweizerland. We left Sweden in the first week of June and flew to Kulusuk via Iceland. Our food, climbing equipment, skis, and camping gear...
FALL ON ICE-FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Chugach National Forest, Byron GlacierOn September 25th at 1815, Alaska State Troopers notified the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group (AMRG) re...
Nepal Police Everest “Clean-Up” Expedition. This expedition (First Sagarmatha Preservation Expedition) was certainly a most controversial expedition and has caused much of a stir in Kathmandu. Looked at from different points of view, it was either...
Prins Christian Sund, Igdlorssuit Havn Tower, new routes and first free ascents on the west face. An eight-man team comprising some of the best rock climbers in Britain visited the western end of Prins Christian Sund in the Cape Farewell region of...
Huayna Potosí: The Pleasures of IgnoranceJack MillerWE entered Bolivia as Babes of the Woods. Naked and innocent. There were mountains there, to be sure, but we knew nothing about them. Maybe everything had been climbed, maybe nothing. If there wa...
Alpamayo Norte. On Alpamayo we were plagued by bad weather and sickness. The upper ridge had more ice and snow than usual, covering the fixed ropes that have been left behind there. Steve Moore and I had an enjoyable climb to the north summit but ...
G2: A Climbing Journal. Produced and directed by Thom Pollard. TRT: 53 minutes. Shot on Beta SP and Hi Band 8 video tape. $30.00.G2: A Climbing Journal is a story about an attempt by Americans to climb Gasherbrum II. The story is told in the past ...
FROSTBITE–DEHYDRATED, FAILURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO WARNING SIGNSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressHervé Laurence (40) was a member of a party of eight French climbers who were planning to ascend via the West Buttress. This group departed on May ...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The activities in the past year ranged from near to far. Rock-climbing trips were made to nearby granite quarries, to the Shawangunks in New York, and to Cannon and Cathedral in New Hampshire. Last summer found members...
Pico Ruiz Teran, Idos en Guate, and Pico Humboldt, Five Pitches of Good Weather. During January 2002 Carlos Pineda and I climbed a direct route up the north face of Pico Ruiz Teran (4,924m). We christened the route Idos en Guate (IV 5.9 Cl AI3). I...
Medicine on the MountainL. BRUCE MEYER, M.D.*In recent years our mountaineering journals have recorded the ascents of many previously unclimbed peaks and travels in many unexplored ranges. More and more mountaineering expeditions have taken to the...
Grand Teton, First Winter Ascent and Descent of East Ridge. The technical challenge of the east ridge no longer appealed after the north and west faces. However, Jock Glidden, Dave Lowe and I had a score to settle as the east ridge had turned us b...
GARETH H. HEMMING1934-1969Gary Hemming’s death has ended the career of a climber widely believed in Europe to have been among the best in the world. Less well known here – all his important climbs were in Europe – he had close to the same reputati...
Khuchu Mocoya Valley, ascents and exploration. In early July, Hal Watts, Markus Roggen, Bernard Lam, Ben Withers, and I spent 23 days in the Khuchu Mocoya Valley in the northern Araca Group of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, where we climbed 11 routes...