Passes over the Central Asian Watershed, First Crossings. John Mock and Kimberley O’Neil completed a 29-day exploration of the Ghujerab Mountains in the northern Karakoram Range northeast of the Shimshal Pass and west of the Shaksgam (Muztagh) and...

Kangchenjunga Traverses. The second Soviet Himalayan expedition had 32 members, of whom 22 climbers spent two years of hard training and high- altitude acclimatization in the Caucasus, Pamir and Tien Shan. The leader was Eduard Myslovsky, who in 1...

Totem Pole, Monument Valley. Ken Wyrick and I were hired by Universal Studios to “put the rope up” for the filming of the desert part of the movie Eiger Sanction. We spent 14 days on the Totem Pole and its nearby walls. Our duties were primarily t...

Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090m), southeast face, Yel-la Sadike; south face, Kabir Hajar. I knew little about climbing in Oman until January 3,2008 when Pavle Kozjek showed me a picture of Jabal Misht. Things then progressed fast, and by the 20...

RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE New Hampshire, Canon CliffOn October 16, 1988, Marc Fragge (23) and Joel Sunshine (24) were killed when the granite block they had anchored to apparently came off. One was rappelling and the other was tied off, waiting to rap...

High Altitude Deterioration. J. Rivolier, P. Cerretelli, J. Foray, and P. Segantini, editors. Karger, New York. 1985. 227 pages, many diagrams and tables. $65.00.In March 1984 some 350 doctors and climbers from 20 countries met in Chamonix to hear...

Negruni Group, Huayna Potosí, Chearoco, Casiri, Illampu, Pico del Norte, Cordillera Real, 1973. From June to August 1973 the Württemberg Friends of Nature Expedition carried out its Bolivian Expedition. Günter Schnait, Dr. Alexander Schlee, Georg ...

FALLS, FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATPennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap N.R.A.There continues to be more climbing and off-trail hiking in this reservation. Two of the three reports we received involved rappels. In May, a 17 year old female was climbing u...

FALL ON ROCK, ROPE PULLED THROUGH BELAY DEVICEColorado, Clear Creek Canyon, Wall of the 90'sOn March 10, I (36) had successfully climbed the route Hot Stuff (5.10c). My two partners and I were climbing on a 70m rope, a standard length for this rou...

P 5705, Tokosha Mountains. My Dad dropped Dr. Richard Griffith and me off by plane on Home Lake, which is along the Tokositna River five miles south of the higher peaks of the Tokoshas and 5500 feet lower than Tokosha Peak. We had cached a canoe t...

Kings Canyon, Windy Cliff—On August 27, 1954, Roy Arnold (approx. 30) and Ed Barnes (approx. 30) rappeled down the face of Windy Cliff in Kings Canyon in an effort to get at the entrance of Cliff Cave which is located near the top but on the face ...

Colorado National Monument, Various Ascents. One of the most beautiful areas for desert climbing, Colorado National Monument has traditionally been overlooked by the majority of desert climbers. Not entirely, however. Each year the deep sandstone ...

Mount Raleigh, Coast Range. Werner Himmelsbach, John Owen, Jim Woodfield, and I of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club, flew from Campbell River to Icewall Lake, some 30 miles southeast of the head of Bute Inlet. This was a hazardous landing ...

Ombigaichen, first recorded ascent of newly opened peak and first winter ascent. Ombigaichen (6,340m) is one of the new trekking peaks authorized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association in 2002. Our expedition consisted of Charles Burr (U.K.), Jo ...

Meru Central, northeast face, variation. On September 17 Marek Holecek and I reached base camp at Tapovan, with the intention of climbing the Shark’s Fin on Meru Central (6,310m). From the 18th to the 23rd we acclimatized and bouldered. On the 24t...

Cerro Torre, First British Ascent. Paul Morres (UK), Mark Wilford (US) and I (UK/US) found ourselves in Patagonia on October 25. I had climbed Fitz Roy 18 years earlier and was quite surprised to see the growth of the small village of Chalten. The...

Mount Sanford, Wrangell Mountains. Mount Sanford was climbed twice by the standard route. On July 15 Barbara Lilley, Richard Gnagy, J. Ohrenschall, T. Wheeler and A. McDermott made the sixth ascent. On July 24 O. Inoue, K. Yamaguchi and S. Uesugi ...

Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth in 2007, I trekked around the Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys for about nine days, hiking up hillsides, over passes, and up subsidiary valleys t...

Huascarán. After four days’ conditioning in the Cordillera Negra, Hans Zogg, leader, Mike Rees, Gary Rose, Lee West, Harold Williams and I used eight days to reach the summit of Huascarán on July 10. The climb was by the regular route.Victor Josendal

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn August 13, 1994, Arnold Schmidt and Patrick Dennis (39) were climbing on the Glacier Route of the Middle Teton when Dennis fell approximately 150 feet. Injuries ...