WALTER L. WOLFWalter L. Wolf died on December 9, 1981. A resident of Zürich in Switzerland for a number of years, he had joined the American Alpine Club in 1954 while still living in the United States. He was a life member. He had climbed extensiv...
General information. For a selection of topo and photo diagrams, look at the two websites, www.madamax.com/camp-catta and www.campcatta.com. Local climbers and Camp Catta staff are encouraging exploration of the giant boulders around the forest, s...
Parshui Valley. The Takushoku University Expedition was led by Hiromi Tanaka. Their objectives were high peaks on the right bank of the Parshui valley. On July 10 their Base Camp was attacked by a group of bandits with firearms who took all their ...
Kangchenjunga North Face Attempt. Our expedition unsuccessfully tried the British route on the north side of Kangchenjunga, which we chose over the Japanese route because of poor snow cover and hard ice. We were five Basques: Koldo Aldaz, Juan Tom...
Spantik. Frans Visser, Maarten Frissel, Pieter Slooten, Antoinette Briët, Sabine Deneer, Dr. Margreet Hogeweg and I as leader made the fourth ascent of Spantik, following a variation of the original southeast-ridge route, first climbed by a German...
Ampato. I climbed Ampato on July 29, 1972 with 50-year-old Carlos Zarate and his 15-year-old son Carlos. It took six days from the Chivay- Arequipa road, three days to the base, then to the top from the southeast and back to the south via Huanca.M...
Les Droites, New Route, 1991. On October 3, 1991, Canadian Barry Blanchard and I climbed a new route on Les Droites. We left the Argentière Hut at 5:30 A.M. and crossed the bergschrund an hour later. The climb began in a small gully between the Co...
FALL FROM ARTIFICIAL WALL, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, REI HeadquartersSublime pleasures, smashing embarrassments, and extraordinary good fortune punctuate my life. Today, sublime pleasure comes from sitting in front of my computer, typing wi...
Piks Kommunizma, Korzhenovskoi and Lenin. “Team Alaska” led by Gary Bocarde and Susan Havens consisted further of Keith Fleischman, Willie Hersman, Margarite Kaniniski, Al Pack, Pete Panarese, Mardie Prentke, Steve Taylor and me. On July 19 we wer...
British Expedition to Pumasillo and Huagaruncho. Before heading for their main objective farther north, four members of the British party, George Band, Dr. Donald S. Matthews, Jack Tucker, and John Streetly, made, in June 1956, a reconnaissance in...
Friga Peak Attempt and Schwarzenbach Falls. Catalan Jordi Tosas attempted a big corner on Friga Peak above the Parade Glacier solo in June. After climbing 100 meters, he was driven back by storm. He put all his gear in a snow hole. When he returne...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING/ EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, Keiner's RouteOn September 2, a party of two men (ages 53 and 34) with no alpine rock or any snow/ice experience attempt...
Pik Lenina, First Winter Ascent. Our preparations began in 1983. We made winter climbs in the Caucasus and the Tienshan. In 1988, under my leadership the team was composed of 19 mountaineers from Leningrad and three from Kazakhstan. Base Camp was ...
Cost Range Of British ColumbiaMt. Sir Robert (Borden), and the Seven Sisters. In 1923 I saw the Coast Range below a cloud ceiling of 6000 ft., from the car window, while going from Jasper to Prince Rupert on the Canadian National Railway. Later, A...
Montana, Glacier National Park: On the afternoon of July 21, 1955, June B. Johnson (20) and two other girls employed by the Glacier Park Company at the Many Glacier Hotel decided to climb the northeast face of Mt. Altyn. They proceeded up Appekune...
The Merlin, Superfortress. In August, Mike Lilygren, Steve Bechtel, and Bobby Model returned to the Big Horn Mountains to finish a free climbing project on the Merlin, a castle-like tower located to the southeast of Cloud Peak. In 1994, they had p...
FALL ON SNOW, SKI MOUNTAINEERING, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHER, EQUIPMENT California, Lake TahoeOn March 28, 1993, at 0930, Peter Purgalis (54) fractured his left ankle during a fall while skiing with a full pack on the Trans-hut route west of Lak...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt and Tragedy. A large Korean expedition had as members leader Choi Chang-Don, deputy Yoon Jang-Hyun, Wee Gae-Roung, Kim Uong-Gie, Lee Eun-Sik, Song Yeong-Ho, Oh Sung-Gae, Park Chang-Gi, Kim Kyeung-Seon, Lee Seung-W...
Reru Valley, exploration. In August four senior Japanese mountaineers, Kiyoaki Miyagawa (68), Mitsuhiko Okabe (68), Akira Taniguchi (71), and I, (69), explored the Reru Valley. Well-known Indian mountaineering authorities, Satyabrata Dam and Haris...
HIT BY FALLING ICE—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Ball Range, Stanley Peak. On July 13, 1975, John Adler, Hans Weidner, and two companions were climbing Stanley Peak by the northern side and were on the north glacier. Large ice blocks broke fr...