Brooks Range, first complete traverse. In September of 2001 I completed the first crossing of the North American Brooks Range, from Point Hope to the Mackenzie River. This crossing required many expeditions over a number of years. Viewed from Poin...
The American East Greenland ExpeditionDONALD J. LISKATHE third day out of Scoresbysund dawned over our camp on an island called Danmarks-oer. Early that morning we* had spotted our Eskimo guide from Kap Hope in his open boat heading east back home...
1951–971959–9719981998USACANUSACANTerrainRock357242710218Snow2081312281Ice19010084River13300Unknown22701Ascent or DescentAscent31694588911Descent19383104913Unknown3247400Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2471231778Slip on snow or ice808165201Fall...
A New Route Up Rainier’s West Side(August 26-29, 1938)Don M. WoodsCREDIT for the completion of one of the few remaining new routes on Mt. Rainier is due to Ome Daiber, of the Seattle Mountaineers, who showed it to me on the map as well as on an ae...
THE CORDILLERA DARWIN is a relatively unexplored alpine range about 140 miles from east to west and 40 miles from north to south on a peninsula on the southwest side of Tierra del Fuego. It is cut by fiords from the north and south with glaciers t...
Richard K Irvin 1930-2006Richard Irvin died on March 10, 2006 at his home in Boise, Idaho after a long battle with cancer. It was the end of an eventful life. Dick's participation in a climb frequently guaranteed success and always guaranteed a go...
After an early June ascent to check out and clean the more difficult pitches, Matt Clifton, Evan Cabodi, and I returned to Colchuck Balanced Rock (CBR) on August 9 and completed a free ascent of our new line. The Scoop (III+ 5.11c), named for the ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsMichael Knofler (45) was a West German of intermediate climbing ability and experience. On the morning on July 2, 1981, he came into the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to sign out for a climb of ...
EL CAPITAN: I wanted to approach but then I didn’t. Like David tackling Goliath. It would be the fulfillment of a dream but fear was my predominant emotion now that it was really happening. Somehow I could never quite believe it was real: we wer...
Kang Guru. A seven-man Japanese team was led by Haruo Kanbe. They established Camp I at 17,225 feet on April 9 and Camp II at 19,700 feet on April 16. Ikuo Yoshita and Sherpas Ang Temba and Tsering on May 2 reached the summit (6981 meters, 22,904 ...
The Adventures of a Mountaineer, by Frank Smythe. 8 vo.; 217 pages, with 17 illustrations and brief appendix.From youthful strolls in the Lake District and North Wales we follow the climbing career of Frank Smythe as he treads Dolomite limestone, ...
North Howser Tower, Direct West Face. At four A.M. on August 5 Gay Campbell, Bill Knowler and I set off for the base of the climb from camp at Bill’s Pass in not very promising weather. We scrambled up snow and scree, rappelled over loose rock dow...
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Granite MountainDuring a beautiful, hot mid-April weekend, literally dozens and dozens of individuals and small parties were on easily accessible Granite Mountain. Among them was lone climber, John Scribner (41),...
NEW EQUIPMENTPrusiking Device. A new mechanical device, called Jümar Stirrups and developed to replace the prusik knot, has recently been imported from Switzerland. With its aid long ascents up a fixed rope are made relatively easy and fast as com...
Tsaronoro, Bravo Les Filles. Nancy Feagin, Kath Pyke, Beth Rodden (who had never placed a piece of pro or climbed a big wall) and I, along with Greg Epperson (photographer) and Kevin Thaw (film team rigger) and Michael Brown and Rob Raker as the f...
Huandoy, Attempt on South Face. The French Cordillera Blanca Expedition, organized by the Groupe de Haute Montagne, tried in vain from June 15 to July 15 to ascend the very difficult south face of Huandoy. This imposing 3000-foot vertical rock wal...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 3, 1985, Joseph Palmer (23) was killed when he took a leader fall on Aftershock. Palmer had selected Aftershock (5.11b) because he was currently working on leading at tha...
Cerro Cajón Perdido. Attempts. More than 20 climbers, which included Italians from Venice and Argentinians from the town of General Alvear, joined forces for a campaign among the little known peaks of the southern part of the province. They climbe...
Snafflehound, Southeast Ridge, Vowell Group. In one long August day Mark Weigelt, Dave Anderson, Steve Barnett and I made the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Snafflehound, which rises from the glacial cirque. The climb started some 150 feet...
Note on Bridge Climbing. The region of southern Utah and northern Arizona is famous for its scenic attractions. Colorful mesas, cliffs and canyons occur in great profusion, and many of them are well known to the travelling public. This sandstone w...