Dhaulagiri, Second Ascent. A 12-man expedition from Doshisha University, led by Tokufu Ota and Shoji Imanari, made the second ascent of Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet). From Camp VI at 25,600 feet on the Swiss northeast-ridge route of 1960, Tetsuji Kawad...
The Citadel, Last Cry of the Butterfly. Marcin Tomaszewski, David Kaszlikowski, and I, supported by the Polish Climbing Association (PZA), arrived in the Kichatnas on April 18, in perfect weather. We landed on the sunny Shadows Glacier, looked aro...
Near Tucson, Arizona. On 9 August 1948 John D. Anderson, a sheriff’s deputy, was assisting in the rescue of a 15-year-old boy who had become isolated on a clifï face the day before. Anderson had been lowered 500 feet down the 1000-foot cliff to th...
FALL ON ROCK-TESTING PROTECTION WHICH PULLED OUT AND FALLING ROCKNew Mexico, Sandia Mountains, The ShieldAfter a long approach on August 26, four well-prepared and experienced climbers began to climb the six-pitch Standard “S” Route (IV 5.6) on Th...
Istor-o-Nal. Three members of a seven-member Japanese team led by Koichiro Nishi reached the summit of Istor-o-Nal (24,290 feet) on July 7. Others were prevented from doing so the following day by a snow storm.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Men Against the Clouds, by Richard L. Burdsall and Arthur B. Emmons. With contributions by Terris Moore and Jack Theodore Young. 8 vo. ; xiii + 292 pages, with 65 illustrations and eight maps and diagrams. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1935. Pr...
Season in the St. Elias Mountains. There were fifteen groups climbing and skiing in the St. Elias Mountains in the summer of 1986. They spent 1451 man-days in the area. I summarize the results of some. Canadians Sandy Briggs, Don Merryman, Richard...
Fin Dome, East Face. Marek Glogoczowski and I also climbed a new route on the east face of Fin Dome, near Rae Lakes, that was F7 and two pitches long. NCCS I, F7.Galen Rowell
A History of Mountaineering in the Alps, by Claire Eliane Engel. 296 pages, 24 plates, with a foreword by F. S. Smythe and a bibliography of Alpine literature. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1950. Price, $6.00.Indefatigable Miss Engel describe...
On 8 August 1947 Clement Ramsland, an instructor in Public Speaking at the University of Minnesota, fell during a descent en rappel from a position above the saddle between Mount Owen and the East Prong. As first man down in his party, he was usin...
Alto Ritacuba, North Face Ascent and Tragedy, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. A Polish-Colombian climb of the north face of Alto Ritacuba (5464 meters, 17,928 feet) ended in disaster. We were Marek Danielak, Zbigniew Kaleta, Edward Krauzowicz, Krzysztof O...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades). 2007 was lean for new routes in southwest B.C., continuing a trend of the last few years. In part this is attributable to a natural tailing off after the great burst of a...
Buni Zom. Joe Reinhard and I made an ascent of the main peak of Buni Zom (21,494 feet or 6551 meters) in August. From Base Camp at Kulakmali in the Phargam Gol we climbed through a rock barrier to reach the Khorabar Glacier on the west side of Bun...
Athabasca, North Face. In early August, Duane Soper and I climbed the small but steep north face of the west summit of Athabasca. This face.was traversed from right to left earlier this summer by Hans Fuhrer and party. We approached the left side ...
LIGHTNINGQuebec, Val David, Mont CesaireAt 1400 on July 24, 1987, a group of nine climbers was having lunch on the summit of Mont Cesaire after a climbing course. Mont Cesaire is one of several rocky peaks in the area, roughly 200 meters above its...
Contraction Bolts. Ralph Widrig and Joe Hieb, of the Seattle Mountaineers, have developed a contraction bolt, shown in the illustration opposite page 225. Fred Beckey writes:1“We have ½-inch star drills, cut down to five inches in length, fitted i...
Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. A 16-person German-Austrian expedition led by Michael Dacher hoped to climb Manaslu by the normal northeast-face route. On May 3, three members established Camp IV at 7400 meters. Then disaster struck and Camp IV was n...
Dhaulagiri IV. The Japan Rock Climbing Society Expedition led by Akinori Otsu attempted Dhaulagiri IV from Base Camp at 13,500 feet in Kaphe Khola in the post-monsoon. They established Camps I at 15,775 feet on September 6, II at 17,400 on the 11t...
Cho Polu, First Official Ascent. Our team was composed of Dieter Rüelker, Guenter Jung, Dr. Olaf Rieck and myself as leader. On October 13, we started from Kathmandu, reaching Lukla by airplane and continuing on via the normal trekking route to Na...
Shivling Attempt. Micael Sundberg had climbed before in Tibet and I, in India and Nepal. Mikael Eriksson, Bogi Palfay and Mats Almlöf had had no earlier Himalayan experience. We did not try the intended steep rocky northeast face because of much s...