Appalachian Mountain Club. Our members spent their summer in pursuit of diverse mountaineering challenges. Probably the most noteworthy was the ascent of Mount Huntington in Alaska by the east ridge by a party of five co-led by Frank Zahar and Nie...
P 6840, Ramparts. Billy Shott and Steve Gorhman ascended the southwest face of P 6840, a 1700-foot-high granite wall (5.10, A2). This peak lies west of P 6850, which was first climbed in 1991 by Fred Beckey and Clay Wadman. This is the second moun...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain, Bankhead ButtressA group of six soldiers were climbing on a cliff known as Bankhead Buttress, a few kilometers east of Banff. The leader came off w...
On August 11, a rock climber was stung more than 1,000 times when he and his three partners encountered a beehive about 6:30 p.m. and were attacked atop Mount Lemmon. His partners were able to escape the swarm, but he was stranded for several...
Poincenot, Banana Wall. After studying the region in hopes of opening a new route, we found a picture in the AAJ showing this magnificent north face with no line up the fractured center, between Old Smugglers (800m, 5.10+ A1/2, Crouch-Donini 1996)...
Drifika and Kapura, attempts. A six man Dutch team comprising Fedor Broekhoven, Coenradd Doeser, Wouter Dorigo, Bas Henzing, Martin Jongmans, and I were unsuccessful in our main objective, 6544m Kapura, south of the Charakusa Glacier. This beautif...
The Mountains, by Lorus J. Milne and Margery Milne and the Editors of Time-Life Books. New York: Time-Life Books. 1962, Revised 1970. 192 pages, 136 photographs, 35 drawings.This attractively designed presentation spans the vast subject of mountai...
Manaslu Attempt. Our objective had been to climb the normal northeast face of Manaslu and then I was to make an extreme ski descent of the southeast face. We were Michel-Albert Chamot, Jean-Pierre Susini, Patrick Gavard, Sylvain Baud, Serge Kempa ...
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, new route attempt. The Slovenian, Tomaz Humar, was hoping to make an audacious solo ascent of a new route on the huge Rupal Face. From the beginning of July he made several attempts to acclimatize on the 1970 Sou...
Everest. Our international group consisted of Frenchmen Michel Vincent, leader, Jean-Pierre Maurus, Phillipe Arvis, Spanish Basque José Luis Sesma, Mexican Oscar Rodríguez, Canadian John Arnold, Sherpani Pasang Lhamu, and Americans David Powers an...
Aconcagua, Vía de los Guías de Mendoza. During nine days in early February, the Second Ecological Expedition to Aconcagua carried out its objectives of making a variant to the right of the normal route and left of the southwest ridge and of inspec...
Himalayan Guides. Jan Kielkowski. (Potsdamer Strasse 45, D-4000, Düsseldorf, Federal Republic of Germany.) These volumes vary in length from 45 to 85 pages and are in paper. 15 German Marks each.This remarkable set of studies of various Himalayan ...
Mount Natazhat, Northeast Ridge. On April 9, Paul Barry, Harry Hunt, Dave Lucey and myself made the second ascent of Mount Natazhat (13,435 feet) by a new route. The first ascent was made from the south in 1913 by Canadian members of the Internati...
Prof. G. O. Dyhrenfurth, who will be remembered for his expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1930 is again leading an expedition to the Himalaya, this time to the Karakorum Himalaya. The party, which Marcel Kurz is accompanying as topographer left Genoa...
K2 from the North. A report on this American-Australian ascent of the north face of K2 appears as a full article earlier in this volume.K2. A 12-man Japanese expedition led by Tomaji Ueki climbed the northwest face of K2. They established Base Cam...
From December 23, 2008, to January 8, 2009, a six-member Korean expedition, led by Kang Sung-woo, attempted a new route on the southwest face of Gaurishankar. They planned to follow a line to the right of the 1984 American- Nepalese route (Wayne C...
STRANDED—ROPES JAMMED, HASTE—TO TRY TO CATCH THIEVES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO KNIFECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn September 13, Chris Heck (39) and Michael Taylor (28) set out to climb the Central Pillar of Fren2y on Middle ...
Everest Attempt. An expedition of nine Americans and a Canadian led by Daniel Larson attempted the North Col route on Everest but were turned back at 8200 meters on May 28.Elizabeth Hawley
The Incredible Hulk, Positive Vibrations. Bob Harrington and I climbed this route in August. The first three pitches coincide with a previous route that starts with several hundred feet of Class 4 climbing a short distance to the right of the orig...
FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND NUT FAILUREOntario, Bon Echo ParkMike Tschipper (16) was leading the last pitch, grade 5.10, of a route on Mazinaw Rock in the late afternoon of 16 October 1977. Neither he nor his belayer, Rob Rohn (19), were wearing hard ...