Colorado Mountain Club. Our membership is 4606, compared with 4892 a year ago. Early in the year our Los Alamos, New Mexico, group voted to disaffiliate with our club. The distance between us has never encouraged a truly close relationship, but we...
Chronique Himalayenne, L’âge d’or, 1940-1955, by Marcel Kurz. Zurich: Fondation Suisse pour Explorations Alpines, 1959- 441 pages, including index, 69 photographs, 16 maps. Price 75 Swiss Francs.(Editor’s Note: Fortunately this work is being trans...
A Logan TraverseWilliam D. Harrison, unaffiliatedMount Logan has been climbed about a dozen times since its discovery in 1890. When planning our 1967 ascent, Vin Hoeman, Alex Bittenbinder, Dave Shaw, Ed Ward and I found ourselves beset by an inter...
Detectives on Everest: The 2001 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition. Jochen Hemmleb with Eric Simonson. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2002. 208 pages, 70 black-and-white and 13 full color photos; 3 maps, 2 appendices, bibliography, and ind...
Mount Huntington— East Ridge and North Face Niels-Henrik L. Andersen SEEING the mass of Mount Huntington standing up from the glacier like a snow-covered, jagged knife, I thought, “That’s what a mountain should look like.” By the time our party ...
I was the only Alaskan member of the Polish-Alaskan expedition in 1976 and unfortunately an Alaskan who did not speak Polish. Our primary aim was to put up a new route on Mount Logan, and we established Base Camp on July 24, 1976 with this objecti...
Alaska, St. Elias—On July 16, Dave Tolland (23), Ray D’Arcy (25), Ritner Walling (24), and Leo Slaggie (22) were camped at about 11,500 feet just below the summit of a peak on the West Buttress route of Mt. St. Elias. They had been forced to camp ...
Up YerupajáW. V. Graham Matthews and David HarrahTHE Cordillera de Huayhuash, less than 20 miles long, contains some of the most spectacularly difficult peaks in Peru—a country where such peaks are the rule rather than the exception. Less than thr...
Kulu Pumori. Though the 1965 expedition did not succeed in climbing Banderpunch, interest had been born among the cadets of the National Defence Academy and I was asked by the Commandant to plan another trip to the Himalayas. The main party consis...
On April 1, 1995, as this Journal was at Nimrod Press being printed, its editor for the past 35 years, H. Adams Carter, died at his home in Milton, Massachusetts. This publication is but one example of his life of distinguished accomplishment and ...
FALL ON SNOW—LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 14, at 1045, Nathan Dick (51) lost control while glissading near the top of Lamb’s Slide on Longs Peak shortly after he had completed its asc...
Mt. Siguniang (6,249m), southeast ridge, second ascent. Mt. Siguniang was first summited in August 1981 by a Japanese team via the southeast ridge (AAJ 1982). We made the second successful ascent of this route, with six members summiting on Novemb...
Beyond Risk: Conversations with Climbers. Nicholas O’Connell. Foreword by Greg Child. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 300 pages. $19.95.Beyond Risk is a collection of seventeen interviews conducted by Nicholas O’Connell with “the world’s most inn...
Dan Beard, Mooses Tooth and Rooster Comb, 1978. Jay Kerr, Lee Anderson, John Harris and I flew to the Ruth Amphitheater on about April 1, 1978. We left immediately for our first objective, the unclimbed southeast ridge of Mount Dan Beard. Kerr and...
FALL INTO MOAT–SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Chugach Range, Cantata PeakOn June 6, around 1400, Kirk Towner (26) and I (29) were in the process of descending from Cantata Peak (5,205 feet). After glissading almost 2,000 feet down a p...
Grasping for Heaven: Interviews with North American Mountaineers. Frederic Hartemann and Robert Hauptman. Foreword by Jan Reynolds. McFarland & Company, Inc., 2010. 224 pages. Paperback.$35.00.This book transcribes conversations with 16 climbe...
Lost Temple. Almost invisible against the north face of East Temple as you look at it from Big Sandy Lake is the 1000-foot monolith, Lost Temple. Its inside detachment from the main face is about 300 feet high, but our studies showed no reasonable...
Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Activity. Expedition members Brinley Mitchell, Peter McEwen and Ian MacDonald are part of a group of gay men who believe that the twin activities of sailing and climbing assist with building health and vitality. We ...
Operation OperationWeldon F. HealdTHE operation was a success. I would live. But the doctor ordered me to remain a month longer in the hospital. He even encouraged me to hope that my insides would stop floating around and eventually settle back ...
Cambridge East Greenland Expedition. Our expedition comprised twelve members of Cambridge University, led by Colin Knox, a New Zealander undertaking research at King’s College. The other members were John Lendon, Mike Graham, Dick Morton, Rupert R...