Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Table Mountain. On 9 August Peter Wollen and Morgan Broman (18) set out from the upper south fork of Cascade Canyon to climb Table Mountain. Since the hike up to the bottom of the climb is nine miles (from Jenn ...
Mount Stalin, Northern Rockies. The Royal Fusiliers (City of London Regiment) Canadian Rocky Mountains Expedition spent over six weeks in the mountains around Wokkpash Lake, which is 25 miles south of Mile 403 on the Alaska Highway. The range was ...
The First Ascent of ChorichoGeoffrey ChildsA COCK was pecking wood. There was laughter, arguing and the trot of sheep heading out of the village to graze on empty fields. Old men approached tapping the ground with their walking sticks, small cloud...
FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Eklutna GlacierOn July 13, five climbers were injured, one critically, in a 60 meter fall on Eklutna Glacier. The climbers, part of an 18-member international expedition, tumbled down the glacier on Saturday after...
Everest’s Northeast RidgeChristian BoningtonTHE EXPEDITION was one of the most arduous any of us had ever been on. Our small team was tackling the long, unclimbed northeast ridge of Everest without oxygen and with its main difficulties situated ne...
Khan Tengri, North Face, New Route. There are 12 existing routes on Khan Tengri (7010m) that lead to the summit from the North Inylchek Glacier. Nine of these routes are on the north face. The giant buttress on the left is, between 6300 and 6400 m...
On April 13, Steve (45), Will (23), and Brent (22) set out to climb the classic Lost Arrow Spire (two pitches, 5.8/5.10 A2). Steve had climbed at least 15 big walls in the park over 30 years, as well as five previous trips up the Spire. Will an...
1980. Makalu West PillarDan MazurOn May 15, at 3:45 p.m., a small bold team from Spokane, Washington completed the first American ascent of Makalu and the first lightweight ascent of its difficult west pillar. This was a seminal moment in Himalaya...
An Early American Attempt on Mont Blanc(Dr. Grant—1839)The first American ascent of Mont Blanc was made by Drs. Howard and Van Rensselaer in 1819. The second American ascent, by Dr. I. T. Talbot, was not accomplished until 1854. In the interval, h...
Everest Northeast Ridge Attempt. Our expedition arrived at Base Camp at 5000 meters on September 3. We were British climbers Doug Scott and Rick Allen, co-leaders, Nick Kekus, Michael Scott, and I, Austrian Robert Schauer, American Steve Sustad an...
On May 12, during a Mountain Trip expedition led by guide Dave Staehli (56), Jeremiah O’Sullivan (40) suffered a fall while descending Pig Hill at approximately the 19,700-foot level, below the summit of Denali. During the fall, he broke his leg...
The Crystal SnakeOverlooking the Everest circus and yet a world away, a rivulet of water ice plunges down the huge north face of Nuptse, Nepal.Willie BenegasOne phone call changed our lives. It came from a guiding company in January 2003, with an ...
Batura II (7,762m), first ascent. Considered one of the highest unclimbed independent summits in the world, Batura II in the western Karakoram had repelled many expeditions because of objective dangers and difficult climbing above 6,500m. In the s...
World’s Record Mountain Landing by Air on Mount Sanford, Wrangell Range. (This also appears in Appalachia, December, 1959.) Your correspondent well remembers reading of the Mallory-Irvine Everest climb in 1924, and the accompanying speculation in ...
MY WILDEST IMAGININGS had not prepared me for the tremendous scale of Mount Logan. As it appeared over the horizon, it dwarfed everything else in sight. I wonder how many worried faces our pilot Phil Upton has seen in his fifteen years of fly...
Kamet. An admirable expedition to Kamet, 25,431 feet, was organized by Maj. Gen. H. Williams, Chief of the Royal Engineers of the Indian Army, to acquaint young Indian officers with the high Himalayas. The Indians who took part were Maj. Narenda D...
Zang Brakk (4,800m), southwest face, Hasta la Vista David. Between August 10 and 13, Silve- stro Stucchi, Anna Lazzarini, Enea Colnago, and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Zang Brakk. Our route follows the most obvious line up the c...
LUTHER GERALD JERSTAD 1936-1998Lute Jerstad possessed a magical quality bom of the mountains that affected all those around him. He was a good friend of my father’s and, as a young boy in Washington, D.C., I remember getting excited when hearing t...
Makalu—AlmostDouglas Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupwE HAD COME to climb Makalu. This isolated and very beautiful region has a host of attractive, unclimbed peaks: Tutse (6757 metres), Peak 4 (6720 metres) and the summits north and east of Yaupa (Pea...
K2—Traum und Schicksal. Kurt Diemberger. Bruckmann Verlag, Munich, 1989. 336 pages, 46 color photographs, 60 black-and-white photographs, 4 drawings, 5 maps, 4 mountain profiles, Tibetan symbols. DM 48 (about $29).K2—Traum und Schicksal (“K2—Dream...