On March 17, Dave Johnston and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the northwest face of 12,010' Mt. Drum in Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains. This mountain is well known to anyone who has driven the Richardson or Tok highways, as it is the ...
Mt. Amery, Aurora. Mt. Amery (3,329m) is not the first mountain you notice while driving up the Icefields Parkway. But if you drive that road enough times, your eye will eventually be drawn to the broad stratified sweep of its north face, capped b...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF—STRUCK BY ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment PeakOn August 17, John Taylor (29) was climbing the Lake Ledges route on Disappointment Peak when he dislodged a rock. The rock struck him on the left chest, and th...
Embree Glacier, First Exploration and Various Ascents. Bob Elias, Kurt Cox and I flew from Punta Arenas to Patriot Hills on November 13, 1998. We were forced to wait for one week by bad weather before we could fly to our objective, the Embree Glac...
Taulliraju, El Centelleo. Riding a bike for three days from Carhuaz (2,650m) to Punta Olimpica/ Pasaje de Ulta (4,890m) sounded like a fast, simple method of acclimatization. Two hours after Matej Flis, Tadej Golob, and I departed, though, I reali...
Annapurna Dakshin Tragedy. A German expedition hoped to climb Annapura Dakshin via the southwest ridge to the south face, a route done by Japanese in 1978. They examined the south face, deciding to do the central spur, but almost continuous snowfa...
VARIOUS INCIDENTS AND SOME DATAWashington, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount RainierThere were 9,714 climbers registered in 2003, a relatively light year when compared to the record high of 13,114 in 2000. Of those registered, 3,520 were led by a...
Greenland, by Vilhjalmur Stefansson. 8 vo., 338 pages with illustrations. New York: Doubleday, Doran Co., 1942. Price $3.50.Few mountaineers, reading the great accounts of Greenland exploration, have not wondered what sort of mountains there were ...
The Way to Shambhala: A Search for the Mythical Kingdom beyond the Himalayas. Edwin Bernbaum. Anchor Books, Garden City, New York, 1980. 316 pages, black and white photographs, glossary, bibliography. $6.95.In his remarkable study, Edwin Bernbaum ...
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Otro Dia Otro Largo. In March 2009 Francisco Parada and I established a new route on the Pared de Profetas, which is the right side of the main wall in the Valle de Paloma. The three-hour approach follows the path cut t...
P 6721. A North Irish-English expedition led by Dr. Simon Wheeler made the successful ascent of P 6721 (22,050 feet) above the Swachand Bamak in the Gangotri region. Details are missing.
FALLING ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, INADEQUATE BELAY, OFF ROUTEOregon, Mount WashingtonMei Ding Stamplis (24) and husband Mathew Stamplis posted the following on a popular climber’s Bulletin Board:“We were on the North Ridge (July 2). Hadn’t climbed ...
Notwithstanding feeble protests by a few climbers, mostly of the past generation, hammers, pitons and safety snaps have definitely entered into modern climbing technique. More recently they have been used on ice with excellent results. The notes t...
Cascade Pinnacles. These three easy pinnacles lie directly west of the Ice Point-Symmetry Spire saddle and are at about the same altitude. They were climbed July 22, 1957 by Fred Ayres and Ellis Blade in an attempt to find the difficult and elusiv...
Peru: Cerro Yerupajá (21,769 ft.). From an expedition of six members, ages 24 to 31, James Maxwell and David Harrah left high camp at 20,500 feet about 10 A.M. 31 July 1950 in a try for the summit. Late in the afternoon they reached the final 300 ...
Like so many good missions in Patagonia, it started with the painful task of changing our plane tickets. A possible good weather window was coming, so it was go-big-or-go- home time. A day and a thousand bucks later we were committed to trying a...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, SEVERED ROPE California, Yosemite ValleyOn May 20, 1988, around 1230, Robert Dietmar Kuhn (24) of West Germany was leading the Pancake Flake pitch just above the Great Roof on the Nose Route of El Capitan. He was being ...
FALLING ROCK–PULLED LOOSE BY CLIMBING ROPESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn August 8, two climbers were descending from a completed climb of Batman Pinnacle. The climbers were rappelling down a loose, talus-filled gully when t...
The Arwa TowerAn old-fashioned adventureby Mick Fowler, United Kingdom“Probably never photographed before,” the caption said. I peered closely at the photograph again. It showed a wild, ice-streaked, rocky spire that was beginning to give me quite...
They came to the Hills, by Claire Eliane Engel. 8 vo., 273 pages, with bibliography and index and 17 illustrations. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd., 1952.This is a group of seventeen short biographies, set down in “an attempt to outline the ...