Aguja de la S, East Face. On February 6, I climbed the east face of Aguja de la S (2350 meters, 13 pitches, 60° 5.10b A0) with the Argentine climber Gadi Slomka. In excellent weather we reached the rimaya, climbed the first three pitches of snow (...
Under A Sheltering Sky: Journeys To Mountain Heartlands. Colin Monteath. Christchurch, New Zealand: Hedgehog House, 2003. 240 pages. Hardcover. $60.00.Under A Sheltering Sky is a large format photography book with unexpected visions of the enchant...
Zhou Peng and I spent October in the northwestern sector of the Minya Konka Range, arriving at base camp (4,300m) in the Riuche Valley on the 1st. Being National Day the valley was filled with Chinese trekkers on the popular route south over a...
FALL ON ROCK, LOOSE ROCKWashington, Tumwater ButtressOn Sunday, April 26, Linda Olson was participating in a rock climbing field trip as a student in the Seattle Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Course. She was leading the second pitch of Tumwat...
“The Angry Wife,” first ascent, via north ridge (Raindog Arête); Daogou, first ascent, via south face (Salvage Op). In early September Jay Janousek, Joe Puryear, Stoney Richards, Paul Saddler, and I left Seattle for the Qionglai Mountains, with ou...
Shisha Pangma Attempt on Skis. Stephen Koch invited me to join Chuck Armatys, Mike Sinclair, Scott Gould, Kurt Papenfus and Australian David Hume on a post-monsoon fast and light attempt on Shisha Pangma. We bicycled from the Nepalese-Tibetan bord...
The White Tower, by James Ramsey Ullman. 8vo.; 479 pages.Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1945. $3.00.Five mountain climbers, of as many nationalities, and a guide, meet during wartime by super-coincidences in Kandermatt, Switzerland, where they de...
Northeast Utah. A series of first ascents and new routes were made in Dry Fork Canyon (north of Vernal) and Dinosaur National Monument in 1983. Dry Fork Canyon features a variety of spires as well as cracks on the desert-varnished canyon walls. Th...
The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practice in Mountain Sports“Stretch your limits, lift your spirits and aim for the top”Adopted by the Future of Mountain Sports Conference, Innsbruck, September 6-8, 2002All over the world, millions of people practice...
Logistical notes on reaching Shanghaizi from Chengdu. The public bus leaves the Chadianzi station early in the morning. It is wise to buy tickets the day before and have a local call to confirm about bus schedules beforehand. The bus ride itself h...
GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG1876-1958As boys, G. W. Y. and his brothers lived at Formosa, the family place on the Thames. Their father, who had been a contemporary of Swinburne at Eton and of Leslie Stephen at Cambridge, edited the poems and essays of ...
Angel’s Landing, Lowe Route, first free ascent with variations. After a successful spring trip to Yosemite, I resolved to establish my own long free route, somewhere near my home in Utah. Zion was the obvious venue, and with some advice from the p...
A Different Way on DhaulagiriRick Allen, Alpine Climbing GroupTHIS IS A PERSONAL VIEW OF CLIMBING with Russian friends while making a new route on the north face of Dhaulagiri.* * * * *An invitation to join a group of Russian climbers in the Tien ...
The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude. In late winter Cedar Wright and I opened three new free climbs in Zion National Park in an “onsight in a day” style. These adventures were preceded by a gut-wrenching journey to Kas...
Primitive Areas in Great BritainErnest S. Griffith1THE average American tourist thinks of a visit to Great Britainin terms of its cities and cathedrals, its literary and historical associations, its countryside, Oxford. Britain to him would be alm...
GORDON L. DOTY1931-1993I came to Portland, Oregon, in June of 1971 for my internship. I climbed South Sister in August. In September, I read about a Gordon Doty, who had just returned from an expedition to Mount Logan. Late one afternoon shortly t...
Various ascents, descents, and exploration. Flying to Ellesmere Island on June 17, Blue Eisele, Jonas Cabiles, and I (all U.S.A.) landed at Mt. Barbeau, intent on trekking to Lake Hazen, the largest freshwater lake in the Arctic, some 50 miles awa...
Field Research and Expeditionary MountaineeringROBERT B. FORBESDepartment of the Army Expedition Project SupervisorIN recent years, American mountaineering parties have become increasingly active in the remote or unexplored mountain ranges of the ...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1991. The 1991 mountaineering season on Denali began with a rumble as a major earthquake hit the range on April 30. It measured 6.1 on the Richter scale. The epicenter was just south of Mou...
The Mountain World, 1958/59.Once again The Mountain World has chronicled nobly the significant climbs of the period. The era of the Eight Thousanders is nearly closed in this volume, with accounts of Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, and Manaslu. (Of the...