Ala Daglar, Cimbar Valley, The Power of Silence, So It’s Life. Although climbing in Turkey has only recently come into vogue, the place is becoming well developed. Paolo Stoppini and I visited the Ala Daglar, where we put up two new routes in the ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAY,INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn June 5, 1988, A1 Pelletier (44) took an eight meter leader fall and broke his neck on a 5.7 route near “Pine Tree Eliminate” at Cathedral Ledge. (So...

Human Adaptation. Amitabha Basu and Kailash C. Malhotra, editors. Indian Statistical Institute, Calcutta, 1984. 325 pages. Not priced.Twenty-five papers are collected here from an International Conference on Human Genetics and Adaptation held in 1...

Choquetira, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Nobumitsu Sakai and four members of Tohoku University Alpine Club reached Otaña village at the eastern foot of Panta through Yanama pass in mid-June, 1973. Ryozo Honkura and Yasutaka Kanamori on June 29 made the ...

WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, AMSOregon, Mount HoodOn June 9, Cassandra Kelley (38) was transported from the 3000 meter level on the south side of Mount Hood to Timberline Lodge. She was with a Mazama group, and was experiencing altitude sickness and hypo...

RAPPELLING ERROR – UNEVEN ROPES, HASTEColorado, Ouray Ice Park, New FrontierA climber rappelled off the end of his rope on February 17. He explained that he was in a rush. He set up an anchor, clipped the rope to the middle mark, threw the rope, s...

Peaks above the Kahiltna Glacier. After unsafe snow conditions prevented our carrying out our plans for climbs on Foraker and Hunter, Roger Robinson and I decided to do the 1200-foot north face of P 8060, which is immediately south of the southeas...

Joshua Tree National Monument—On October 30, 1954, Phillip Martin (17) and a companion joined a scheduled Sierra Club climb at Joshua Tree National Monument. They did not participate with the climbers nor climb under supervision, but climbed near ...

Lone Peak, Free Mexican Air Force. John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham did a new route on the Summit Wall they called Free Mexican Air Force (II 5.9 A2+). Their new route follows the west face of the arête, north of Left Thumb. It consists of four 150-...

Waddington Group, Coast Range. Several new routes were made in August from the Sierra Club climbing camp in the valleys south of Mount Waddington. An airdrop was placed on Whitetip Glacier near camp at Icefall Point. Good weather did not favor the...

Numri first ascent. Numri is south of Cho Polu and east of Chukung village. The 6,677m mountain was first climbed by a German team led by Olaf Rieck in November. The seven-member expedition established their base camp at 5,140m on the Imja Glacier...

The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgPeaks above 6,500m; overview. The year 2010 proved extremely bleak for mountaineering tourism in Paki...

Meru Central, northeast face, variation. Yasuhiro Hanatani, Hiroyoshi Manome, Yasushi Okada, and I planned to climb Meru Central (6,310m) by the oft-tried line of the Sharks Fin or northeast pillar. We had attempted the route in 2004 but retreated...

North Tower Of Paine, East Face. Marko Prezelj and Andrej Stremfelj climbed a new 750-meter route on the east face of North Tower of Paine. They named it Born Under A Wandering Star (VI 5.10a A4 -). They arrived at basecamp on January 18. The firs...

Mount Gakona, Eastern Alaska Range. March found Steve O’Brien, Mark Hottman, Toby Wheeler and me planning the first and the first winter ascent of Mount Gakona (9850 feet) in the Delta Mountains. Gakona has two peaks a mile apart along a hairy kni...

Siguniang, southwest ridge integral. Over eight days in late September, Dylan Johnson and Chad Kellogg made the first complete ascent of the southwest ridge of Siguniang (6,250m) in the Qonglai Shan. In July 1992 eight Japanese climbers led by Chi...

Attempt on Cajavilca, Cordillera Blanca. During the last two weeks of August, Gary Ziegler and I attempted Cajavilca (18,947 feet). We had traveled overland from Colorado to Lima, largely by hitch-hiking. When we arrived in Lima, we had less than ...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn August 13, 1994, Arnold Schmidt and Patrick Dennis (39) were climbing on the Glacier Route of the Middle Teton when Dennis fell approximately 150 feet. Injuries ...

Saptasring, Northeast Ridge Attempt. It was reported that a British expedition led by Andrew Blett reached a height of 5400 meters on May 29 on this unclimbed 5781-meter peak before being turned back by deep and unconsolidated snow. (High Mountain...

Huantsán, West Summit. After enormous delays and problems in the customs, the expedition of the Club Montanyenc Sant Cugat of Barcelona assembled in Huaraz. They were José María Navarro, Jorge Farrés, Miguel Garrell, Santi and Alfonso Ferrer, Vice...