Kangtega from the North. A second Sangaku Doshisha expedition, composed of Kazuo Yuda, leader, Makoto Ishibashi, Yoshiyasu Hondo, Koichi Takeuchi and Dr. Hiroshi Maruyama, climbed a new north-face route on Kangtega from the Hinku Nup Glacier. Afte...
Nalkankar. The Northwest Nepal Scientific Research Expedition of Hokkaido University had as objectives to climb Nalkankar (24,032 feet) and to investigate the catchment basin of the Karnali River geologically. Led by Hisao Ando, they consisted of ...
Himlung Himal Attempt. An 11-man Japanese-Nepalese team was led by Masatoshi Sato. Three full members were Sherpas and there were also three Sherpa high-altitude porters. They attempted the northeast ridge from the southeast of Himlung (7126 meter...
Aconcagua, Clean-Up Operation. The operation “Aseo del Aconcagua” was undertaken by 18 members of the Club Universitario de Andinismo, Mendoza, seven of whom were women and all under 24. Their objective was to clean up the normal route on Aconcagu...
East Peak, Vowell Group, South Face and East Ridge. On September 6 Thom Nephew and I climbed the south face of East Peak via a large chimney system. The route lies on the extreme right side of the face and joins the existing east-ridge route well ...
Huandoy Sur, South Buttress. In A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, p. 400 it stated that the Japanese Kyoto expedition had repeated the American route of 1964. Up to 18,500 feet the two routes were separate; the Japanese climbed the right side of the buttress an...
Mount Temple, North Face, 1988. In August 1988, Fred Beckey, Carl Horton, Paul Guajardo and I climbed an oblique system of cracks crossing the north face of Mount Temple. We ascended halfway up a giant couloir which bisects the lower part of the f...
Dragoon Mountains, Cochise Stronghold. There are many waves and spines of granodiorite in outline along the ridges and flanks of the Dragoon Mountains. The northern side had apparently never been visited by rock climbers. In February Phil Warrende...
California, Yosemite National Park, South Face Washington Column. On 25 April William Chadwick (23) and William R. Smith (20) were climbing the above route. Chadwick led the pitch to Dinner Ledge. Smith had belayed Chadwick from a large (6×8 foot)...
Cleveland Mountaineers. Since its inception almost ten years ago, Ohio’s major mountaineering organization has begun to accumulate a substantial background in mountaineering experience.Because of Cleveland’s geographical location, not many people ...
Manaslu East Face Tragedy. We arrived at Base Camp at 4300 meters on September 26 and spent five days reconnoitering, hoping to ascend the unclimbed east face of Manaslu. We were all in very good condition from climbing on the Soviet 7000ers. On O...
Everest, Winter Attempt. Ten British climbers and an American under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel Philip Neame unsuccessfully attempted to climb Everest via the South Col. They reached a high point of 7850 meters on the Lhotse Face on Decem...
Some remarkable pictures of the Alps taken from the Puy du Dome and the Vosges at great distances appear in La Montagne for June, 1933. Mont Blanc at a distance of 305 km. and the Bernese Alps at distances of 180-230 km. among others. These pictur...
Broad Peak Attempt. Sixteen Italians under the leadership of Arturo Bergamaschi had hoped to climb Broad Peak from the Chinese side. Unfortunately, they were unable even to get to the base of the mountain via the Shaksgam region. In June, high wat...
South Eagle Beak, Opening Farewell and Five Years. In June, Fremont Bainbridge and I returned to the South Eagle Beak to climb these two easy face routes a few hundred feet right of Beagle Creeks (above). Opening Farewell (F5) follows the obvious ...
ERIK F.B. FRIES1899-1990Erik F. B. Fries died on November 7, 1990 at the age of 91 years in Falmouth, Massachusetts.Dr. Fries received his Ph.D. from Harvard in 1930 in biology. After working for a publishing company as a consulting editor, he joi...
Wind River Range, 1946: Gannett-Dinwoody Group. Nearly 200 climbers and skiers visited the Gannett Peak Camp in upper Dinwoody Canyon during the 1946 season. In August, which proved to be the popular climbing month, 80 attended the Colorado Mounta...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HATWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, TeewinotKeith Hensler (64) was supposed to pick up a friend, Lance Brown, at the Lupine Meadows trailhead on the afternoon of September 4. When Brown arrived ...
Aguja de la S, East Face. On February 6, I climbed the east face of Aguja de la S (2350 meters, 13 pitches, 60° 5.10b A0) with the Argentine climber Gadi Slomka. In excellent weather we reached the rimaya, climbed the first three pitches of snow (...
Under A Sheltering Sky: Journeys To Mountain Heartlands. Colin Monteath. Christchurch, New Zealand: Hedgehog House, 2003. 240 pages. Hardcover. $60.00.Under A Sheltering Sky is a large format photography book with unexpected visions of the enchant...