American Alpine Club Research FundGLACIERS OF THE GANNETT-FREMONT PEAK AREA, WYOMINGMark F. MeierIT was the author’s privilege to spend the summer of 1950 studying the glaciers of the higher regions of the Wind River Mountains. This study was made...
Mounts Triumph and Despair, Winter Ascents. The winter of 1986 was an unpredictable one in the Cascades. During the last two weeks of February, six feet of new snow were followed by torrential rains and spring-like clearing. On March 1, Mark Bebie...
Kamet, 1979. Kamet (25,447 feet, 7756 meters) was climbed by a new route from southeast of Meade’s Col on June 5, 1979 by Captain R. Yadav, Inder Singh, Amar Singh, Ajaib Singh, Dalchand, Bhuraram and Sangh Singh and on June 7 by Major Pratap Sing...
Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose; Mt. Church, Amazing Grace. After climbing the fantastic ice line of Shaken Not Stirred (2,200', V AI5) on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth, James Clapham and I returned to the unclimbed 5,000' east face ...
The Centennial Festival of the Matterhorn was celebrated at Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia from July 11 to 18. After one hundred years it was possible to recapture some of the noble obsession and that which was admirable in those men who dared attemp...
Kristian Gletscher Area, Schweizerland, East Greenland. In June, an international expedition left for East Greenland. It was composed of ten Italians: Antonio Colli, Mauro Corona, Maurizio Dall’Omo, Luciano De Crignis, Fabio Delisi, Lino Di Lenard...
For a variety of reasons, 2003 was not as busy as 2002. Some of the activists were elsewhere, otherwise occupied, or injured. Fires burning throughout the backcountry from July through September also curtailed activity. Nonetheless, it was a fairl...
SLIP ON SNOW-TWICE, NO BELAYWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranOn July 3, the Jones party signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station as two separate groups of four to climb the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran. On July 4, they sta...
The Editor,American Alpine Journal.Dear Sir:Believing it to be the policy of the American Alpine Journal to seek for accuracy in all matters concerning the mountains, I am enclosing a short article touching on the Cariboo Range, and trust that you...
Dankova Group, Various Ascents. It was reported that a 1996 expedition to the eastern end of the West Kokshaal-Tau resulted in the first non-C.I.S. climbers to enter the range, which is the southernmost range of the Tien Shan mountains and lies on...
Cordillera Yauyos. A group of six Californians climbed during June and July, 1966 in the Cordillera Yauyos, a region visited in 1963 by a Spanish Expedition. (See A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, pp. 209-210.) They approached from the north via the road throug...
At 7 a.m. on August 19, after a heinous two-hour approach, Bruce Kay (Squamish, B.C.) and I racked up at the toe of the steep pillar on the right side of Mt. MacDonald’s l,000m-high north face, for our first adventure together. We were surprised...
GeographicalDistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-82DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber ofAccidents1983DeathsTotal Persons - InvolvedCanadaAlbertaBritish ColumbiaYukon TerritoryOntarioQuebecEast ArcticWest ArcticPractice CliffsUnited StatesAlaska1636253...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION CAME OUT, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Linville Gorge, North Carolina WallOn September 8, Colin Treiber, (20), and his partner were climbing Bumblebee Buttress (5.8), located on the North Carolina Wall in the Linville Gorge ...
Handbook on Ski-Touring and Glacier Ski-ing. Ski Club of Great Britain and the Alpine Ski Club. Second edition completely revised, 1961. 97 pages. Price 4s6d.The two British clubs responsible for this useful, compact, well organized book have rend...
Kutshkulin Sar, Ascent. In August, a six-man international team visited the Karambar Glacier region of northern Pakistan. We were entirely self-funded. The Karambar Glacier lays at the northern limit of the Ishkoman Valley with the surrounding mou...
New Ascents in the Cashmere Crags. Of a number of new climbs on the Nightmare Needles in the Cashmere Crags, the first of the 1950 season was the ascent of Cynical Pinnacle by J. Hieb, W. Fix, J. Schwabland and F. Beckey. An open chimney on the N....
Central Staunings Alps, various first ascents. Laubie Laubscher, Mark Litterick, Ken Moore, Stephen O'Sullivan, Heike Puchan-Whitworth, Brian Shackleton, Brian Whitworth, and I comprised the Scottish Mountaineering Club expedition to Scoresby Land...
INADEQUATE BELAY ANCHOR, POOR POSITION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, SeattleOn a field trip to Camp Long in Seattle, a Seattle Mountaineers climbing class was using the belay towers when the following occurred on February 22, 1985.It was the end...
Chearoco Valley. During five weeks in the summer of 2001 a British female team comprising Adele Pennington, Catrin Thomas, Nancy Brooks, and I enjoyed a successful expedition to this remote and underdeveloped region. Although the trip was hampered...