Mount Cotter, North Face. In June Tony Qamar, Marek Glogoczowski and I climbed this steep 1000-foot wall to the north summit. The climb from a distance appeared to be at least half artificial, but we only used aid in two places. The first was a lo...
Regards vers I’Annapurna, by Maurice Herzog and Marcel Ichac. Introductions by Lucien Devies and Maurice Herzog. 84 pages of illustrations, with 12 pages of commentary. Grenoble and Paris: B. Arthaud, 1951.This excellent picture book in color is, ...
Teton Range, Wyoming: (1) Symmetry Spire, St. John Massif. In mid-June 1947, a climber, Hans Breu, was attempting one of the cliffs in this district with a companion, George Senner. Breu decided to climb a more difficult pitch than his companion f...
Monte Cuisaltepe. On November 2, William T. Hunter and I made a new route on the west buttress of Monte Cuisaltepe near Los Cocos. We used no protection on this 5.5 climb. Our plans to climb the south face were thwarted by unprotectable, overhangi...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, some of the routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] Summer 2007 never really set up on the coast, with only short intermittent periods of settled sunny weathe...
Mount Lady Macbeth, Macbeth Group, Purcells. Taking advantage of a break in the rainy weather, my wife Gretchen and I drove 9½ miles up the improved logging road along the north side of Glacier Creek on July 31. Leaving the car at about 3700 feet ...
Dobani. Isao Ikeuchi and I climbed Dobani (20,158 feet), 15 miles southeast of Rakaposhi, on June 9. Each of us carried one big sack during the expedition, limiting our equipment and food, but this was an advantage since it made it inexpensive. On...
Mount Eisenhower from Tower Lake. Although Mount Eisenhower presents a high rock-climbing challenge, the only route on its northern side prior to our visit was that of the first ascent by Professor A. P. Coleman in 1884. On August 3, Jamie Fitzger...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEOntario, Bon Echo Provincial ParkAt 1230 on May 30, 1987, Francis F. was leading a Class 5.6 route on the cliffs at Bon Echo above Mazinaw Lake. He lost his grip, and fell about ten met...
Attempt on Uruashraju and Ascent of Huascarán. Timothy K. Griffin and I attempted Uruashraju (18,815 feet) via the south ridge, which was climbed by Giobbi and Mauri in 1966. Leaving Base Camp at the head of the Quebrada Rurec on July 13, we place...
Lebanon. Anderson Bakewell writes of climbing 8620-ft. Mt. Sannine in December 1947.
Ganesh II Attempt. A six-man Korean expedition led by Park Jong-Tae hoped to climb Ganesh II by its west ridge from the south face of Ganesh IV, the same route attempted unsuccessfully by Swiss in the autumn of 1984. The high point of 6600 meters ...
Dhaulagiri IV. The Japanese Gumma expedition was led by Fumio Kobayashi. After establishing Camp IV on April 26 at 20,300 feet on the Austrian route on this 25,135-foot peak, Takajiro Matsui fell ill and died on April 30 from pulmonary edema. The ...
Erkimkang, North Face, and Khatung Kang, Ascents. In mid-August I went to the Langtang region, north of Kathmandu, where I retraced the steps of Bill Tilman, who visited the area in the late 1940s. Like Tilman, I made a base at the yersa (temporar...
P 6038, Gangotri Area. A 19-member Bulgarian party was led by Vasil Gurev. Three camps were made on unclimbed P 6038 (19,810 feet). On October 13, three women: Petia Kolcheva, Svetla Anachkova and Svetlana Toshevska and five men: Kamen Kolchev, Va...
LEWIS S. SOUTHWICK1888-1981Lewis S. Southwick died on December 18, 1981 at the age of 93. An American Alpine Club member since 1944, he resided in Shelter Island, New York. He had made ascents in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, the Canadian Rocki...
Hombori Mountains, new route. From November 20 to January 14 my brother Michael and I visited the Hand of Fatima in the Hombori Mountains. On Kaga Pamari we established a new route up the center of the southwest face, completing the line in the fi...
Bandaka. After not receiving permission for Udren Zom, the expedition of the Mountaineering Association of Fukushima Prefecture turned hastily to Bandaka (22,450 feet). On August 12 Rikio Mizoi, Masaru Mizukami and Akira Hashiyada reached the top ...
Kangchenjunga Southwest Face. We hoped to make the first American ascent of the southwest face of Kangchenjunga. We were Rob Gustke and Bill Roos, leaders, John Bercaw, Jeff Brinck, George Gardner, Frank Coffey, Craig Miller, Gunnar Paulsen and I....
Minapin Attempt. French climbers led by Pierre Feuillet failed to climb Minapin. They tried the north ridge and then the north face and west ridge but found both routes very dangerous because of séracs and avalanches.