Poincenot, complete west ridge (DNV Direct) and Blood on the Tracks, free ascent; Desmochada, variation to The Sound and the Fury. In 2007 I was in the Torre Valley with a large group of Canadians. The weather was cold and dismal, making for less-...
Link Sar and smaller granite towers in the Kondus Valley, attempts. In May-June Steve Larson, George Lowe, Joe Terraveccia, Andy Tuthill, Eric Winkelman, and I explored several possible first ascent routes on Link Sar (7041m) in the Kondus Valley....
Glacier Ice, by Austin Post and Edward LaChapelle. Seattle: The Mountaineers, Seattle-London: University of Washington Press, 1971. 110 pages, 130 photographs and illustrations.Ice is an essential element of the alpine landscape. It is largely res...
Manaslu Attempt. Six Spaniards led by Juan Fernando Azcona tried to climb Manaslu by its northeast face. They got to 6400 meters on October 1.Elizabeth Hawley
Malubiting Central (7,260m), second ascent. On July 25 two Spanish climbers, Raul Magdaleno and Álvaro Novellón, made the second ascent of Malubiting Central. The Malubiting group is a complex of high and rarely visited summits on the watershed ri...
Skiing Off Mount Everest. In the pre-monsoon season, German Reinhard Patscheider skied down the normal South Col route on Mount Everest from 8400 meters. His record was beaten on September 27 when Frenchman Pierre Tardivel skied from the South Sum...
Argentine-Chilean PatagoniaAvalanche Tragedy, below El Tronador, above Bariloche. On April 25, a group of ten young Argentine climbers were camped in snow caves on the side of the Vieja Ridge on el Tronador. This was a training course for high-mou...
Dolomites—Selected Climbs. Ron James. The Alpine Club, London, 1988.(Distributed by Cordee, 3 De Montfort Street, Leicester LE1 7HD,England.) 60 pages, black-and-white photographs. $22.50 (post paid).Bravissimo to the Alpine Club for being midwife...
Mount Bear, Ascent, and South to North Traverse. Our superb pilot, Paul Claus, of Ultima Thule Outfitters, dropped the three of us (Ruedi Homberger, Hansueli Brunner and I) off May 12, 1995, on the glacier system that drains the south side of Moun...
The Saint Bernard Monks are reported to be making progress with their plans for a branch establishment on the Sila Pass on the border between Tibet and Szechuan. The group which went out in January, 1933, reported favorably on the project. The act...
The Crown (Huang Guan Feng) Attempt and Tragedy. A Himalayan Association of Japan expedition, led by Hideo Tateno, attempted the Crown (7265 meters, 23,835 feet) by its southern face. The members were Hideo Tateno, Jasuhiro Hashimoto, Dr. Isao Sug...
A massif of high peaks, which forms the Nepal-Tibet border southwest of the Nangpa La, is generally unnamed on maps, although one of the northerly summits, 6,781m, is sometimes referred to as Jobo Rinjang (also Ribjang or Rabzang) and on the outda...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAYCalifornia, Temple CragOn October 4, Gary Niblock, Mike Nichols (both 48) and Mark Harris (42) were climbing an ice chute northwest of Temple Crag. About 1300, Harris reached the top first and began watching his friend...
Everest Clean-Up. Our 1992 team consisted of Tom Leech, Pierre Braun- schwig, Steve Kin, Chris Naumann, Kyle Schmierer, Peter Nichol and me. We arrived in Kathmandu on July 1 after two years of careful planning, expecting a warm welcome from the C...
South Eagle Beak, Beagle Creeks. Fred Beckey had climbed this dome via the south face, and Fremont Bainbridge, Conrad Van Bruggen and I had done two routes on the northern beak; this was the first route on the wide southwest face. It follows an ob...
FALL IN CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierJohn Howard and a companion ascended the Athabasca Glacier on 23 February 1978 to attempt either Snow Dome or Mt. Kitchener. At 1540 hours, under the headwall of the Atha...
Swelokan, south face and northwest ridge attempts. A small Japanese team became the first climbers to attempt the remote 6,180m Swelokan, which lies on the Tibet border north-north-east of Manaslu, in what is sometimes referred to as the Kutang Hi...
From June 18 to 25, Enrico Rosso, Alessandro Vanetti and I climbed alpine-style the first 1000 meters of a new route on the buttress on the left side of the north face of Thalay Sagar (UIAA VII, 80° ice). We ascended the entire buttress from the n...
Aguja de la S, Ascent. Brad Schilling and Michael Clifford climbed the lower south summit, approaching it from the west side, in mid-January, 1997.
Illiniza Sur, Southwest Face. After two previous visits in poor weather we made a new route on the southwest face of Illiniza Sur on September 13, 1982. Our team consisted of Jorge and Delia Montopoli and me. The approach to this face is much more...