Ice Climbing—Technique on the Great FacesAndré Contamine, Club Alpin FranqaisTranslated by H. Adams CarterEVEN the most impassioned rock-climber can not claim the title of Mountaineer if he is not familiar with ice technique.Snow and ice, the ado...
ARTHUR BREWSTER EMMONS III 1910-1962On August 22, 1962, a few days before his 52nd birthday, Arthur B. Emmons III died of cancer in Washington, D.C. His illness had lasted six months.Climbing must have been in Art’s makeup from earliest childhood,...
Undiscovered Scotland: Climbs on Rock, Snow and Ice, by W. H. Murray, viii + 232 pages, with 24 photographic illustrations and 14 maps and diagrams by Robert Anderson. London: J. M. Dent and Sons, Ltd., 1951. Price, 18/-.Those who have read Mr. Mu...
DENTON FOX1929-1988Denton Fox was one of a small group of climbers, mostly from the Western states, who, by happenstance, found themselves attending Yale University in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Building on the skeletal remains of an organiza...
ALFRED ADOLPHE COUTTET ARMAND CHARLET GEORGES TAIRRAZAlfred Adolphe Couttet and Armand Charlet, two of the most distinguished guides in the history of the French Alps, died at Chamonix during the last year. Although neither was a member of the AAC...
Nanda Devi East Attempt and Tragedy. A 12-member Czech team hoped to climb this peak via the Polish 1939 route, over the Longstaff Col. The weather was continuously unstable and they reached the high point of 7100 meters. Two members suffered from...
Under the Midnight Sun: The Ascent of John Denver Peak and the Search for the Northernmost Point of Land on Earth. John Jancik, Steve Gardiner, Javana M. Richardson. Colorado: Stars End Creations, 2003. 200 pages, 126 color photos, 4 BW photos. $2...
The Black Canyon of the Gunnison River. In the last five years the Black Canyon has become one of Colorado’s most important climbing areas. All five of the state’s Grade VI big-wall climbs are found here, as well as many Grade IV and V free climbs...
The First Ascent of Mount ErasmusJohn C. OberlinBACK home after vacation in the summer of 1949, I had not been too sure that I would care to pack in to Mount Erasmus.1 The 2500 feet of steep bushwhacking with heavy packs which Bob Bishop and I had...
Spokane Mountaineers. A pilot cross-country ski race and several ski tours were 1966 winter highlights. Thirty people finished the formal climbing course with a graduation climb of Mount Hood in May. On 14 Wednesday evenings members practiced rock...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED—OFF ROUTE, LATE START, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Tetons, Grand TetonOn August 14 at 2230, rangers at the Lower Saddle hut were contacted by Chris Riha (39), Rosa Kanning (24), and John Murphy (23) who indicated that two ...
Northeast Ridge of Huayna PotosíRoman A. LabaAS JOHN HUDSON and I began to consider leaving Patagonia, I told him about a beautiful climb to be done in the Cordillera Real of Bolivia, a rock and ice ridge, which was the boundary between the arid a...
Kula Kangri I (7,538m) (Künla Kangri, Main Peak), attempt. This assault on the main peak of Kula Kangri was combined with a training program for members of the Nihon University Alpine Club. Due to bad weather and an accident we were not able to mo...
Second Peak, Middle Palisade—First Ascent From the NorthA route having been found up the north face of the culminating peak of the Middle Palisade, there remained the desirability of discovering one up the second highest summit northwest of the fi...
Wedge Peak. My brother William, Phil Colbert and I arrived at McKinley Park and proceeded up the Muldrow Glacier that night nearly to the turn. For a few minutes we disputed with a grizzly bear the camp site on the fine meadow just short of the gl...
FALL ON ICE, NO EXPERIENCENew Jersey, Delaware Water Gap, Mt. TammanyOn February 5, Karl Martinelli (19) and two friends hiked to the summit of Mt. Tammany by an established trail. The three, deciding to take a short cut, attempted to descend the ...
Lhagu Glacier, ski expedition and probable first ascent of Pt. 5,928m. In the past our Silver Turtle Group, composed of elderly mountaineers, has climbed several 8,000m peaks. More recently we have been concentrating on unexplored regions, notably...
Saltoro Kangri. The Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto, Kyoto University, sent an expedition under the leadership of Dr. Tsunahiko Shidei to join the Korakoram Club of Pakistan. Taian Kato, Dr. Kazuhiko Hayashi, Dr. Atsuo Saito, Kazumasa Hirai, Yatuka ...
Yosemite Valley, various activity. The big news in the Valley this year, once again, was the freeing of big wall routes, specifically on El Capitan. While this activity has become more popular, the usual suspects remain at the forefront. Yuji Hira...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, ALTITUDE SICKNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyNicholas Collins (age unknown) was a member of the three-man British McKinley expedition on the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. On April 3, 1981, the group was flown int...