Grand Teton, First Winter Ascent and Descent of East Ridge. The technical challenge of the east ridge no longer appealed after the north and west faces. However, Jock Glidden, Dave Lowe and I had a score to settle as the east ridge had turned us b...
GARETH H. HEMMING1934-1969Gary Hemming’s death has ended the career of a climber widely believed in Europe to have been among the best in the world. Less well known here – all his important climbs were in Europe – he had close to the same reputati...
Khuchu Mocoya Valley, ascents and exploration. In early July, Hal Watts, Markus Roggen, Bernard Lam, Ben Withers, and I spent 23 days in the Khuchu Mocoya Valley in the northern Araca Group of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, where we climbed 11 routes...
FALL ON GLACIER ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier RouteOn August 8 at 9:15 a.m., while leading the second icy pitch of the Kautz Glacier Route, Bryan Fry (28) fell on the 45-degree icy pitch....
During our stay in Kvaloya, Donald King, Julia Snihur, and I climbed some established classics, which are as good as any in the world, and a few great new routes. However, it was pictures of Hansjorg Auer and Much Mayr attempting, in 2010, to free...
Ascent of Mount BellBestor RobinsonTHE summer of 1936 marked an all-time high for population on the Franklin Glacier and its tributaries. Three closely cooperating parties, frequently camping together and always planning together, brought eighteen...
Kvaloya Island, Blamann, north face, Arctandria, first free ascent. After meeting a Swedish guy in Squamish, Canada, who told me about a north-facing wall somewhere in Norway where the sun shines through the night, I was totally psyched. Looking a...
HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeTwo climbers from Colorado Springs, Jon Spangler (32) and Cathy Proenza (28), left Isput Creek on Saturday, June 1, 1991, to climb Liberty Ridge. Bo...
Everest Solo Winter Attempt and Death of a Sherpa, 1993. Spaniard Fernando Garrido made an unsuccessful solo attempt on the South Col route on Mount Everest. He was helped by a few Nepalese climbers to get safely through the Khumbu Icefall and to ...
THOMAS HUGHES JUKES 1906-1999Tom Jukes was born in Hastings, England, in 1906 and died on November 1, 1999, in Berkeley, CA, after a short illness. He was a classical environmentalist, a scientist of the first order and a long-time mountaineer and...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—419...
Seventy-three ascents were made in Grand Teton National Park during the past season—almost twice the 1932 total and by good margin the largest number for any one season thus far. Climbing began on June 24th and closed on September 17th, ascents be...
Lhotse, rescue. A rather dramatic rescue of a British climber took place on Lhotse’s normal west face route. The Briton was 19-year-old Thomas Moores, who was part of an American-led commercially organized expedition. He had reached the summit on ...
Moosh Mustagh, Kun Lun. Yuji Watanabe was the leader of 24 Japanese to Moosh Mustagh. They arrived at Base Camp at 4800 meters on July 28. Two camps were placed on the Mustagh Glacier and Camp III was occupied at 5860 meters on the east ridge on A...
Paolo’s Peak, first ascent, Via Pallaresa; Paolos Peak, No Spice!; Pt 5,930m, first ascent, Anti-parques; Iris Peak, Tine Por; and “Brouillard Pillar,” Tocati di Bola, Ocells a Vent. Last summer marked the end of the 2004-2005 course for members o...
Golden Throne, Capitol Reef National Park. The Golden Throne, a well known sandstone landmark in south central Utah, was climbed by George Hurley, his wife Jean Hurley and Dave Rearick in April, 1974. The ascent was previously unreported. From the...
Miyar Nala, Toro Peak, Toro Ridge; Korklum Gou (Window Peak), Shangrila Ridge; Premsingh Peak, Trident Ridge; Castle Peak, south face, David’s 62 Nose tower, Lufoo Lam. My wife Tanja and I took the public bus to Tingrit, a small village at the end...
AAC, North Central Section. Our Section continues to grow after several inactive years without a chair. The Web site was up and running the entire year and has proven to be valuable in spreading information around the Section. Climbers have used t...
Geregeer Mustagh, First Ascent. It was reported that in the summer of 1997, a joint Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka and the Shizuoka University Alpine Club Japanese expedition made the first ascent of Mt. Geregeer Mustagh (5250m) in the Chinese T...
Cerro San Enrique, Quimsa Cruz, 1980. Elaine Brooke had climbed in the Quimsa Cruz before and knew her way there. I remember little of the approach since most of the travel was at night in trucks. Somewhere, about 100 kilometers south of La Paz, w...