Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Palisade, Putterman Couloir

North Palisade, Putterman Couloir. On July 2, Cameron Bums and I ascended what we believe to be a previously unclimbed couloir on the west side of North Palisade. On this face are three distinctive white cliffs. The original west-side route, first...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Chihuahua, Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, El Gigante, La Conjura do los Necios, Second Ascent

El Gigante, La Conjura de los Necios, second ascent. In May Slovenians Tanja Grmovsek (formerly Tanja Rojs) and Andrej Grmovsek took a prehoneymoon trip to El Gigante, where they repeated the 2001 German route, La Conjura de los Necios (The Conspi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Attempt

Broad Peak Attempt. After reaching Base Camp at 4850 meters on August 4, we had five days of snowfall. From August 10 to 14 we ferried supplies to 6000 meters and kept on to the summit ridge at 7950 meters, about 100 meters from the top before the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Gurla Mandhata

Gurla Mandhata. A Viennese student, Herbert Tichy, disguised as an Indian pilgrim with two Indian friends and Kitar, a porter of the last Nanga Parbat expedition, made a trip to the holy mountain, Kailas, and attempted the climb of Gurla Mandhata ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Argentina, Cerro de la Aguada, Ascent and Historical Note

Cerro de la Aguada, ascent and historical note. A group of Argentinean climbers of the Club Andino Mar del Plata and Janajman (Salta) ascended this 5,810m volcano that is near the massive Antofalla (6,409m). The ascent commemorated the 100th anniv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Odoray via the Northeast Ridge

Odoray via the Northeast Ridge. The northeast ridge of Odoray is the steep righthand skyline of the mountain when viewed from the Canadian Alpine Club hut in the O’Hara Meadow. Don Morrison and I set out from the cabin about 6:00 A.M. on July 19, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, IsA.A.C., South Face, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion

Isaac, South Face, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion. Over the Memorial Day weekend, Jeff Lowe and I climbed the crack system which follows the east side of the south face of Isaac. Two dirty, bushy pitches marred the otherwise clean route. Descent wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, P 11,920 ("The Nameless Pyramid")

P 11,920 (“The Nameless Pyramid”). In October, Richard Swayze and I approached this formation intent on repeating the original route on the east face. We knew that the normal route followed a very prominent crack several hundred feet to a huge hor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Himachal Pradesh, Peak 6250M, Ascent

Peak 6250m, Ascent. A British expedition led by Graham Boswell climbed an unnamed 6250- meter peak in August. This peak is situated toward the north of Chandra tal and is near point Tagne (5870m), which is marked on the map. The team turned east f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori Tragedy

Pumori Tragedy. An expedition of eight Americans and Australians hoped to make the winter ascent of Pumori by its southeast face. Australian George Curry fell and was killed on the first day of the attempt, December 28, when he was still only at 5...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kunbhakarna East Attempt

Kumbhakarna East Attempt. To make the first ascent of the extremely steep east face of Kumbhakarna (Jannu) has been a Slovene project since 1991. This autumn’s three-man party was the fourth Slovene group to plan its ascent. But Dušan Debelak and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Whitney Portal Buttress, Sartoris

Whitney Portal Buttress, Sartoris. This route lies on Whitney Portal Buttress a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Callis route. It was climbed in August by Steve Eddy, Alan Bartlett and me, and starts in the only continuous left-facing crack-fl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Range, Mount Alverstone, West Buttress

Mount Alverstone, West Buttress. It was reported that Bill Pilling and Carl Diedrich climbed the 6000-foot west buttress of Mount Alverstone in seven days of climbing, five on the ascent and two on the descent. Their route was 80 percent ice split...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite (4)

California, Yosemite (4)—On June 9, 1956 an accident occurred on the lower part of the Royal Arches on a pitch known as the “Bear Hug,” an open, high-angle chimney that is climbed mainly by friction holds. The party was on a standard and frequentl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal Himalaya, Tirsuli West Attempt

Tirsuli West Attempt. Roger Payne and Julie Ann Clyma attempted this last 7000-meter virgin peak (7035 meters) in the Kumaon via the west ridge, reaching 6300 meters on June 12. They traversed two ridges to reach the west ridge. The route ahead wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, New Zealand Expedition to Mount Everest

New Zealand Expedition to Mount Everest. There were eight members of the New Zealand Everest Expedition: Keith Woodford, leader, Robert Cunningham, deputy leader, Michael Andrews, Richard Price, Fr. Michael Mahoney, Michael Brown, Nicolas Banks an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Pico Los Portones and Púlpito Negor, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy

Pico Los Portones and Púlpito Negro, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. The most impressive mountain in this range, Pico Los Portones (also called Picacho and San Pablín Norte), had been ascended for the first and only time in 1959 by two Cambridge Universit...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineers of Seattle

The Mountaineers of Seattle are planning to hold their twenty- fifth annual outing in Mount Garibaldi Park, British Columbia, July 26 to August 10, 1931. A permanent camp will be established in Black Tusk Meadows. This region of great interest was...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Veiled Peak, South Ridge

Veiled Peak, South Ridge. The belief that the small Veiled Peak held no interesting unclimbed routes was shattered by the ascent of the South ridge by William Buckingham and Margaret Pevear on August 17. This distinct ridge was approached from the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Lhakpari, First Ski Descent

Lhakpari, First Ski Descent. An expedition guided by Andy Broom (Out There Trekking) reached the summit at 11 a.m., September 22, via the west ridge. All skiing was randonée except Philip Ponder, who made the trip on a telemark system with three-p...