The Crystal SnakeOverlooking the Everest circus and yet a world away, a rivulet of water ice plunges down the huge north face of Nuptse, Nepal.Willie BenegasOne phone call changed our lives. It came from a guiding company in January 2003, with an ...
Batura II (7,762m), first ascent. Considered one of the highest unclimbed independent summits in the world, Batura II in the western Karakoram had repelled many expeditions because of objective dangers and difficult climbing above 6,500m. In the s...
World’s Record Mountain Landing by Air on Mount Sanford, Wrangell Range. (This also appears in Appalachia, December, 1959.) Your correspondent well remembers reading of the Mallory-Irvine Everest climb in 1924, and the accompanying speculation in ...
MY WILDEST IMAGININGS had not prepared me for the tremendous scale of Mount Logan. As it appeared over the horizon, it dwarfed everything else in sight. I wonder how many worried faces our pilot Phil Upton has seen in his fifteen years of fly...
Kamet. An admirable expedition to Kamet, 25,431 feet, was organized by Maj. Gen. H. Williams, Chief of the Royal Engineers of the Indian Army, to acquaint young Indian officers with the high Himalayas. The Indians who took part were Maj. Narenda D...
Zang Brakk (4,800m), southwest face, Hasta la Vista David. Between August 10 and 13, Silve- stro Stucchi, Anna Lazzarini, Enea Colnago, and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Zang Brakk. Our route follows the most obvious line up the c...
LUTHER GERALD JERSTAD 1936-1998Lute Jerstad possessed a magical quality bom of the mountains that affected all those around him. He was a good friend of my father’s and, as a young boy in Washington, D.C., I remember getting excited when hearing t...
Makalu—AlmostDouglas Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupwE HAD COME to climb Makalu. This isolated and very beautiful region has a host of attractive, unclimbed peaks: Tutse (6757 metres), Peak 4 (6720 metres) and the summits north and east of Yaupa (Pea...
K2—Traum und Schicksal. Kurt Diemberger. Bruckmann Verlag, Munich, 1989. 336 pages, 46 color photographs, 60 black-and-white photographs, 4 drawings, 5 maps, 4 mountain profiles, Tibetan symbols. DM 48 (about $29).K2—Traum und Schicksal (“K2—Dream...
Colorado Mountain Club. Our membership is 4606, compared with 4892 a year ago. Early in the year our Los Alamos, New Mexico, group voted to disaffiliate with our club. The distance between us has never encouraged a truly close relationship, but we...
Chronique Himalayenne, L’âge d’or, 1940-1955, by Marcel Kurz. Zurich: Fondation Suisse pour Explorations Alpines, 1959- 441 pages, including index, 69 photographs, 16 maps. Price 75 Swiss Francs.(Editor’s Note: Fortunately this work is being trans...
A Logan TraverseWilliam D. Harrison, unaffiliatedMount Logan has been climbed about a dozen times since its discovery in 1890. When planning our 1967 ascent, Vin Hoeman, Alex Bittenbinder, Dave Shaw, Ed Ward and I found ourselves beset by an inter...
Detectives on Everest: The 2001 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition. Jochen Hemmleb with Eric Simonson. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2002. 208 pages, 70 black-and-white and 13 full color photos; 3 maps, 2 appendices, bibliography, and ind...
Mount Huntington— East Ridge and North Face Niels-Henrik L. Andersen SEEING the mass of Mount Huntington standing up from the glacier like a snow-covered, jagged knife, I thought, “That’s what a mountain should look like.” By the time our party ...
I was the only Alaskan member of the Polish-Alaskan expedition in 1976 and unfortunately an Alaskan who did not speak Polish. Our primary aim was to put up a new route on Mount Logan, and we established Base Camp on July 24, 1976 with this objecti...
Alaska, St. Elias—On July 16, Dave Tolland (23), Ray D’Arcy (25), Ritner Walling (24), and Leo Slaggie (22) were camped at about 11,500 feet just below the summit of a peak on the West Buttress route of Mt. St. Elias. They had been forced to camp ...
Up YerupajáW. V. Graham Matthews and David HarrahTHE Cordillera de Huayhuash, less than 20 miles long, contains some of the most spectacularly difficult peaks in Peru—a country where such peaks are the rule rather than the exception. Less than thr...
Kulu Pumori. Though the 1965 expedition did not succeed in climbing Banderpunch, interest had been born among the cadets of the National Defence Academy and I was asked by the Commandant to plan another trip to the Himalayas. The main party consis...
On April 1, 1995, as this Journal was at Nimrod Press being printed, its editor for the past 35 years, H. Adams Carter, died at his home in Milton, Massachusetts. This publication is but one example of his life of distinguished accomplishment and ...
FALL ON SNOW—LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 14, at 1045, Nathan Dick (51) lost control while glissading near the top of Lamb’s Slide on Longs Peak shortly after he had completed its asc...