A Different Way on DhaulagiriRick Allen, Alpine Climbing GroupTHIS IS A PERSONAL VIEW OF CLIMBING with Russian friends while making a new route on the north face of Dhaulagiri.* * * * *An invitation to join a group of Russian climbers in the Tien ...
The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude. In late winter Cedar Wright and I opened three new free climbs in Zion National Park in an “onsight in a day” style. These adventures were preceded by a gut-wrenching journey to Kas...
Primitive Areas in Great BritainErnest S. Griffith1THE average American tourist thinks of a visit to Great Britainin terms of its cities and cathedrals, its literary and historical associations, its countryside, Oxford. Britain to him would be alm...
GORDON L. DOTY1931-1993I came to Portland, Oregon, in June of 1971 for my internship. I climbed South Sister in August. In September, I read about a Gordon Doty, who had just returned from an expedition to Mount Logan. Late one afternoon shortly t...
Various ascents, descents, and exploration. Flying to Ellesmere Island on June 17, Blue Eisele, Jonas Cabiles, and I (all U.S.A.) landed at Mt. Barbeau, intent on trekking to Lake Hazen, the largest freshwater lake in the Arctic, some 50 miles awa...
Field Research and Expeditionary MountaineeringROBERT B. FORBESDepartment of the Army Expedition Project SupervisorIN recent years, American mountaineering parties have become increasingly active in the remote or unexplored mountain ranges of the ...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1991. The 1991 mountaineering season on Denali began with a rumble as a major earthquake hit the range on April 30. It measured 6.1 on the Richter scale. The epicenter was just south of Mou...
The Mountain World, 1958/59.Once again The Mountain World has chronicled nobly the significant climbs of the period. The era of the Eight Thousanders is nearly closed in this volume, with accounts of Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, and Manaslu. (Of the...
On March 17, Dave Johnston and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the northwest face of 12,010' Mt. Drum in Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains. This mountain is well known to anyone who has driven the Richardson or Tok highways, as it is the ...
Mt. Amery, Aurora. Mt. Amery (3,329m) is not the first mountain you notice while driving up the Icefields Parkway. But if you drive that road enough times, your eye will eventually be drawn to the broad stratified sweep of its north face, capped b...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF—STRUCK BY ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment PeakOn August 17, John Taylor (29) was climbing the Lake Ledges route on Disappointment Peak when he dislodged a rock. The rock struck him on the left chest, and th...
Embree Glacier, First Exploration and Various Ascents. Bob Elias, Kurt Cox and I flew from Punta Arenas to Patriot Hills on November 13, 1998. We were forced to wait for one week by bad weather before we could fly to our objective, the Embree Glac...
Taulliraju, El Centelleo. Riding a bike for three days from Carhuaz (2,650m) to Punta Olimpica/ Pasaje de Ulta (4,890m) sounded like a fast, simple method of acclimatization. Two hours after Matej Flis, Tadej Golob, and I departed, though, I reali...
Annapurna Dakshin Tragedy. A German expedition hoped to climb Annapura Dakshin via the southwest ridge to the south face, a route done by Japanese in 1978. They examined the south face, deciding to do the central spur, but almost continuous snowfa...
VARIOUS INCIDENTS AND SOME DATAWashington, Mount Rainier National Park, Mount RainierThere were 9,714 climbers registered in 2003, a relatively light year when compared to the record high of 13,114 in 2000. Of those registered, 3,520 were led by a...
Greenland, by Vilhjalmur Stefansson. 8 vo., 338 pages with illustrations. New York: Doubleday, Doran Co., 1942. Price $3.50.Few mountaineers, reading the great accounts of Greenland exploration, have not wondered what sort of mountains there were ...
The Way to Shambhala: A Search for the Mythical Kingdom beyond the Himalayas. Edwin Bernbaum. Anchor Books, Garden City, New York, 1980. 316 pages, black and white photographs, glossary, bibliography. $6.95.In his remarkable study, Edwin Bernbaum ...
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Otro Dia Otro Largo. In March 2009 Francisco Parada and I established a new route on the Pared de Profetas, which is the right side of the main wall in the Valle de Paloma. The three-hour approach follows the path cut t...
P 6721. A North Irish-English expedition led by Dr. Simon Wheeler made the successful ascent of P 6721 (22,050 feet) above the Swachand Bamak in the Gangotri region. Details are missing.
FALLING ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, INADEQUATE BELAY, OFF ROUTEOregon, Mount WashingtonMei Ding Stamplis (24) and husband Mathew Stamplis posted the following on a popular climber’s Bulletin Board:“We were on the North Ridge (July 2). Hadn’t climbed ...