Brammah’s Wife Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Richard Hester, Hugh Thornbery, Don Mabbs, Chris Parkin, Peter Blackburn and me as leader. We wanted to climb Brammah’s Wife (17,973 feet) and the Eiger (18,088 feet) alpine-style without fixe...
Le Diable Des Dolomites by Tita Piaz. Translated by Felix Germain. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1963. 268 pages, 20 illustrations. 18 francs.A translation of the autobiography of the guide Tita Piaz, who flourished in the Dolomites in early decades of the 1...
P 6568 (“Manda South”) and Jogin I. From Bheronghoti it took Peter Athans, Maggie Fox, Peter O’Neil, Rachel Cox and me three days to march up the precipitous Kedar Ganga to reach Base Camp at 15,500 feet on the slopes west of the Kedar Tal (lake) ...
Travellers in Switzerland, by G. R. de Beer, xviii + 584 pages, with 23 full-page illustrations. Oxford University Press, 1949. Price, $8.00.This is a biographical encyclopaedia of travellers in Switzerland from Willa of Ivrea, who crossed the San...
Crown Point, Peeler Pillar. Near the Twin Lakes area to the north of Yosemite, Crown Point lies between Crown and Peeler Lakes. Rising above Peeler Lake is an impressive pillar which Geert Dijkhuis (of Holland), Larry Johnson, and I climbed on Sep...
Sagas of the Evergreens, by Frank H. Lamb. 8 vo., 359 pages with illustrations. New York : W. W. Norton Co., 1938. Price $3.50.Evergreens everywhere are the living announcement to the climber that he is approaching the mountains. Climbers, hurryin...
Jichu Drake or Tsherim Kang Tragedy. Our 13-man expedition left Italy on August 21. We were flown in a small plane of the Bhutanese Airline to Paro at 7550 feet, where we were warmly received by representatives of the Ministry of Tourism and passe...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Besides the instructional trip every Sunday to Devils Lake, 40 miles north of Madison, many of our members take frequent outings to the “Lake” and other climbing areas. During the year many new high standard multi-pi...
University Peak (14,470'), southwest spur. Kevin Ditzler and John Kelley climbed this 8,500' route in seven days, summiting on April 17. They descended the north ridge to Beaver Basin, where they waited six days for a pickup with almost no food or...
Ama Dablam. This Swiss expedition climbed Ama Dablam by the normal south-ridge route. All six members reached the summit. On October 22 leader Pierre-Antoine Hiroz, the only French member Pierre Dutrievoz and Yves Rau- sis went to the top. Four da...
The Road to Coire. This is the story of a pilgrimage which began in Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn and ended at Coire, the chief city of the canton of Grisons. The year was 1890, the time midsummer, the length of the trek some 138 miles. Fo...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The outstanding feature of recent years has been the steady, rapid increase in club membership, which has amounted to 50% within the last four years. The membership currently totals about 2800 members, of whom about 170...
A.A.C., New York Section. The slide lecture program for members and guests of the Club continued to be popular, with excellent presentations by Vern Klevenger about Yosemite wall climbing and the High Sierra, and by Arlene Blum on the ascent of An...
North, Central, and South Towers of Paine, solo link-up. On February 16, 2002, I awoke in Campamento Japanese at 2:00 a.m., got caffeinated, and departed camp at 3:00 a.m. I intended to make a solo link-up of the Towers of Paine. With just over a ...
Putha Hiunchuli. The Japanese Zao Alpine Club had six members, including one woman and was led by Toyomi Oishi. They had plans to ski down the whole mountain. After establishing Camp III on April 18, they reached 18,735 feet, but bad weather put a...
Aconcagua National Park. Plaza de Mulas (14,000 feet), the Standard Base Camp for the normal route, now has radio service with three daily contacts with Mendoza and Puente del Inca. Climbers can now radio their needs directly to Puente del Inca. T...
P 7428, Saltoro Group. An Indian Army expedition of 54 members was led by Colonel Prem Chand. They established two camps on the Siachen Glacier before turning up a glacier north of the Saltoro group. They then placed three camps higher. Three clim...
Cerro Pereyra, first ascent; Aguja de L’S, The Thaw’s not Houlding Wright. Heeding the barrage of ice blocks and rocks cascading down, Leo Houlding, Cedar Wright, and I abandoned our plans for the Maestri-Egger, and my compadres steered me toward ...
Illiniza Sur and Ayapungo. The Ecuadorians José Bergés and Marco Cruz made the first ascent of the steep south face of Illiniza Sur (5266 meters, 17,278 feet) on Oct. 12. A cold bivouac had to be spent at a height of about 16,000 feet. The standar...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, FALLING ROCKIdaho, Sawtooth MountainsOn July 2, 1989, Louis Stur (65) fell to his death from an unnamed mountain nearBaron Peak. He was climbing with a friend, Frank Kreusi (70). Here are some excerpts fro...