Huascarán Norte, Northeast and Northwest Ridges. A Yugoslavian expedition from Celje was led by Franc Canžek and composed of Janez Crepinšek, Mišo Culk, Francek Knez, Ivan Lesjak, Aco Pepevnik, Joše Zupan and Dr. Joše Cetina. The original objectiv...
Matterhorn, North Face. Tobin Sorenson soloed the north face of the Matterhorn in early December in nine hours.
Noijin Kangsang lies immediately north of the Gyantse-Lhasa road at 28.9° N, 90.1° E. At least five routes have been climbed: the west ridge (Japanese, 1999); southwest ridge (Tibetan Mountaineering Association, 1986); south-southwest spur and sou...
Pico Bolívar and Other Ascents, Venezuelan Expedition. A group of twelve climbers of the Asociación Distrital de Andinismo, Caracas, ascended Tairona (c. 16,500 feet), Bolívar and Colón (both 18,975 feet), between December 8 and 27, 1978. For the ...
The Alpine Club of Canada will hold its twenty-sixth annual camp July 20 to August 3, 1931, in Prospector’s Valley in Kootenay National Park—a main camp to be established about three miles from the head of the valley beside Tokumm Creek, with auxi...
Disappointment Peak, Gyunt Arête Variation. This variation, the “Open-Book”, was climbed by Philip Jacobus and Steve Larsen on August 21. It was a very difficult rock climb, generally following a prominent open-book formation on Grunt Arête. Eight...
Puscanturpa Group, 1981. (A brief report in A.A.7., 1982 on page 182 was unfortunately not totally correct. The following was received too late for publication last year. See photos of Puscanturpa Norte and Sur in A.A.J., 1975, Plates 59 and 60.) ...
Lobuche Kang II, First Ascent. A Swiss party from Neuchatel established Base Camp at 5300 meters. Camp I was above the difficult 400-meter-high serac barrier at 5750 meters, Camp II was at 6300 meters on the col between Lobuche Kang I (7367 meters...
Field Book—The Wind River Range from Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas with Supplement, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sagebooks, 1960 and 1962. 148 pages, 37 ills., 8 maps, index, 1962 supplement. Pric...
Peak 7,600' and Mt. Kimball. On August 12 I laid eyes on Bethan Gilmartin for the first time. August 13 found us driving to the Richardson Highway Monument and starting to hike east toward Mt. Kimball (10,200'). Due to inclement weather and poor m...
RAPPEL FAILURENew Hampshire, Cannon CliffsIn September, a climber rappelled off the end of his rope and fell 30 feet to the scree below, sustaining only a sprained neck. He was assisted to the road by Fish and Game personnel. (Source: Rick Wilcox,...
INCOMPLETE TIE-IN, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, The Needles, Sorcerer NeedleOn September 4, two climbers were on Thin Ice (5.10b) at the Needles, an easy route for their abilities, after earlier climbing two short, multi-pitch routes, Igor Unchained (5...
Minar and M6, Kishtwar Region. A British Joint Service team, led by Squadron Leader Emlyn Thomas, was joined by members of the Indian Air Force. Base Camp was in the Chandra valley. They made the first ascent of two peaks between June 24 and July ...
Dorado Needle, West Buttress, 1985. In October 1985, Dan Cauthorn and I found our way to Dorado Needle. Our route starts in a recess to the right of the buttress proper and ascends a wall just left of a chimney for the first pitch. Several more mo...
California, Sierra Nevada, Matterhorn Peak. On 11 October Craig Williams (41), Bob Bowen (34), and Clarke Smith (35), all experienced mountaineers, were descending on a sunny day from a successful and uneventful ascent of Matterhorn Peak. This inv...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 18, 1983, Robert Muhnicki (28) was leading the tenth pitch on the Northwest Face of Half Dome when a large rock flake he was on broke away. He fell onto his climbing partner, Toivo Kodas. The roc...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers Climbing Committee sponsored a number of programs to serve all levels of climbing competence in the club. The best known of these is the Basic Climbing Course which enrolled 227 students and graduated 129. Gradua...
Dunagiri Attempt. Austrians Wolfgang Stefan, Peter Pavlag, and Oswald Duba and Swiss Hans Zebrowski left Reni on May 3 and ascended the Rishi Ganga to establish Base Camp near the Ramani Glacier on the 8th. Duba had to return to civilization becau...
Bear Creek Spire. In February, Bill Kerwin and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via a new route on the south face. Starting on slabby rock uphill of Rowell’s routes, we took a direct line to the summit through the upper steep headwall a...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn July 11, 1985, two climbers departed early on the normal route. Usual ascent speed was maintained until the climbers moved onto the steeper south face where difficulties increa...