Manaslu East Face Tragedy. We arrived at Base Camp at 4300 meters on September 26 and spent five days reconnoitering, hoping to ascend the unclimbed east face of Manaslu. We were all in very good condition from climbing on the Soviet 7000ers. On O...
Everest, Winter Attempt. Ten British climbers and an American under the leadership of Lieutenant Colonel Philip Neame unsuccessfully attempted to climb Everest via the South Col. They reached a high point of 7850 meters on the Lhotse Face on Decem...
Some remarkable pictures of the Alps taken from the Puy du Dome and the Vosges at great distances appear in La Montagne for June, 1933. Mont Blanc at a distance of 305 km. and the Bernese Alps at distances of 180-230 km. among others. These pictur...
Broad Peak Attempt. Sixteen Italians under the leadership of Arturo Bergamaschi had hoped to climb Broad Peak from the Chinese side. Unfortunately, they were unable even to get to the base of the mountain via the Shaksgam region. In June, high wat...
South Eagle Beak, Opening Farewell and Five Years. In June, Fremont Bainbridge and I returned to the South Eagle Beak to climb these two easy face routes a few hundred feet right of Beagle Creeks (above). Opening Farewell (F5) follows the obvious ...
ERIK F.B. FRIES1899-1990Erik F. B. Fries died on November 7, 1990 at the age of 91 years in Falmouth, Massachusetts.Dr. Fries received his Ph.D. from Harvard in 1930 in biology. After working for a publishing company as a consulting editor, he joi...
Wind River Range, 1946: Gannett-Dinwoody Group. Nearly 200 climbers and skiers visited the Gannett Peak Camp in upper Dinwoody Canyon during the 1946 season. In August, which proved to be the popular climbing month, 80 attended the Colorado Mounta...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HATWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, TeewinotKeith Hensler (64) was supposed to pick up a friend, Lance Brown, at the Lupine Meadows trailhead on the afternoon of September 4. When Brown arrived ...
Aguja de la S, East Face. On February 6, I climbed the east face of Aguja de la S (2350 meters, 13 pitches, 60° 5.10b A0) with the Argentine climber Gadi Slomka. In excellent weather we reached the rimaya, climbed the first three pitches of snow (...
Under A Sheltering Sky: Journeys To Mountain Heartlands. Colin Monteath. Christchurch, New Zealand: Hedgehog House, 2003. 240 pages. Hardcover. $60.00.Under A Sheltering Sky is a large format photography book with unexpected visions of the enchant...
Zhou Peng and I spent October in the northwestern sector of the Minya Konka Range, arriving at base camp (4,300m) in the Riuche Valley on the 1st. Being National Day the valley was filled with Chinese trekkers on the popular route south over a...
FALL ON ROCK, LOOSE ROCKWashington, Tumwater ButtressOn Sunday, April 26, Linda Olson was participating in a rock climbing field trip as a student in the Seattle Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Course. She was leading the second pitch of Tumwat...
“The Angry Wife,” first ascent, via north ridge (Raindog Arête); Daogou, first ascent, via south face (Salvage Op). In early September Jay Janousek, Joe Puryear, Stoney Richards, Paul Saddler, and I left Seattle for the Qionglai Mountains, with ou...
Shisha Pangma Attempt on Skis. Stephen Koch invited me to join Chuck Armatys, Mike Sinclair, Scott Gould, Kurt Papenfus and Australian David Hume on a post-monsoon fast and light attempt on Shisha Pangma. We bicycled from the Nepalese-Tibetan bord...
The White Tower, by James Ramsey Ullman. 8vo.; 479 pages.Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1945. $3.00.Five mountain climbers, of as many nationalities, and a guide, meet during wartime by super-coincidences in Kandermatt, Switzerland, where they de...
Northeast Utah. A series of first ascents and new routes were made in Dry Fork Canyon (north of Vernal) and Dinosaur National Monument in 1983. Dry Fork Canyon features a variety of spires as well as cracks on the desert-varnished canyon walls. Th...
The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practice in Mountain Sports“Stretch your limits, lift your spirits and aim for the top”Adopted by the Future of Mountain Sports Conference, Innsbruck, September 6-8, 2002All over the world, millions of people practice...
Logistical notes on reaching Shanghaizi from Chengdu. The public bus leaves the Chadianzi station early in the morning. It is wise to buy tickets the day before and have a local call to confirm about bus schedules beforehand. The bus ride itself h...
GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG1876-1958As boys, G. W. Y. and his brothers lived at Formosa, the family place on the Thames. Their father, who had been a contemporary of Swinburne at Eton and of Leslie Stephen at Cambridge, edited the poems and essays of ...
Angel’s Landing, Lowe Route, first free ascent with variations. After a successful spring trip to Yosemite, I resolved to establish my own long free route, somewhere near my home in Utah. Zion was the obvious venue, and with some advice from the p...