Ishinca, Ranrapalca, and Urus Oeste, Cordillera Blanca. The Swiss Bernhard Wörner led a group largely made up of women to the Cordillera Blanca. The climbers were Marie Fischer, Rösli Bosshard, Martha Pfeiffer, Dorli Schnaufelberger, Erich and Suz...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURES—INADEQUATEPROTECTION, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 18, 1994, at 0200, Jenny Lake Rangers received a 911 call regarding cries for help coming from the north side of...
Pisco and Yanapaccha. Basques L. Blanco, J. Ortís and J.J. González made in August ascents of Pisco Oeste, Yanapaccha (5460 meters, 17,914 feet) and Yanapaccha Norte (5380 meters, 17,651 feet), the last peak by its steep south face, which required...
Cleaning Half Dome—Twenty-Two Years After. Bart O’Brien told it as it was (“Climbing Half Dome—Twenty Years After,” A.A.J., 1978, pp. 466-470). The bivy site and the foot of the northwest face of Half Dome were deep in the litter of hundreds of cl...
Noel Peak, Stikine Icecap. Between June 27 and July 18, Stacia Cronin, Jay McCubbrey, Peter VanderNailen, Tony Watkin, Beverly Wilson, David Wilson, Les Wilson, and I visited the northern Stikine Icecap of British Columbia. Our primary objective w...
FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPED, NO HELMETColorado, Eldorado State ParkOn March 25, a thirty-two year old female experienced climber and her partner had just completed the first pitch of Blind Faith (5.10) on the west side of the Bastille. Rather...
Wyoming, Tetons, Symmetry Spire (3). On August 20 Thomas Morgan (16) and Robert Rosch had completed an ascent of Storm Point and were descending via the Symmetry Spire Couloir. Morgan decided he would try glissading down the snow field even though...
Langtang Lirung, East Ridge. A joint Nepalese-Japanese expedition, led by Akira Ban, was composed of four Nepalese from Tribuvan University and nine Japanese from Osaka City University. They completed a new route, which had been twice unsuccessful...
Lhotse Attempt. Our expedition of 14 Spaniards and 14 Sherpas began reconnaissance of the Khumbu Icefall on March 22. We were there at the same time as the Polish and Basque expeditions. Our objective was Lhotse by the northwest couloir. We were J...
The Boxtop, East Face. The east face of this interesting tower in the Cashmere Crags was first climbed on July 6 by Tom Oas and me. It is a two-hour, strenuous route on superb rock. One first scrambles to the top of the Mount Temple ridge east of ...
Kangtega from the North. A second Sangaku Doshisha expedition, composed of Kazuo Yuda, leader, Makoto Ishibashi, Yoshiyasu Hondo, Koichi Takeuchi and Dr. Hiroshi Maruyama, climbed a new north-face route on Kangtega from the Hinku Nup Glacier. Afte...
Nalkankar. The Northwest Nepal Scientific Research Expedition of Hokkaido University had as objectives to climb Nalkankar (24,032 feet) and to investigate the catchment basin of the Karnali River geologically. Led by Hisao Ando, they consisted of ...
Himlung Himal Attempt. An 11-man Japanese-Nepalese team was led by Masatoshi Sato. Three full members were Sherpas and there were also three Sherpa high-altitude porters. They attempted the northeast ridge from the southeast of Himlung (7126 meter...
Aconcagua, Clean-Up Operation. The operation “Aseo del Aconcagua” was undertaken by 18 members of the Club Universitario de Andinismo, Mendoza, seven of whom were women and all under 24. Their objective was to clean up the normal route on Aconcagu...
East Peak, Vowell Group, South Face and East Ridge. On September 6 Thom Nephew and I climbed the south face of East Peak via a large chimney system. The route lies on the extreme right side of the face and joins the existing east-ridge route well ...
Huandoy Sur, South Buttress. In A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, p. 400 it stated that the Japanese Kyoto expedition had repeated the American route of 1964. Up to 18,500 feet the two routes were separate; the Japanese climbed the right side of the buttress an...
Mount Temple, North Face, 1988. In August 1988, Fred Beckey, Carl Horton, Paul Guajardo and I climbed an oblique system of cracks crossing the north face of Mount Temple. We ascended halfway up a giant couloir which bisects the lower part of the f...
Dragoon Mountains, Cochise Stronghold. There are many waves and spines of granodiorite in outline along the ridges and flanks of the Dragoon Mountains. The northern side had apparently never been visited by rock climbers. In February Phil Warrende...
California, Yosemite National Park, South Face Washington Column. On 25 April William Chadwick (23) and William R. Smith (20) were climbing the above route. Chadwick led the pitch to Dinner Ledge. Smith had belayed Chadwick from a large (6×8 foot)...
Cleveland Mountaineers. Since its inception almost ten years ago, Ohio’s major mountaineering organization has begun to accumulate a substantial background in mountaineering experience.Because of Cleveland’s geographical location, not many people ...