The Crown (Huang Guan Feng) Attempt and Tragedy. A Himalayan Association of Japan expedition, led by Hideo Tateno, attempted the Crown (7265 meters, 23,835 feet) by its southern face. The members were Hideo Tateno, Jasuhiro Hashimoto, Dr. Isao Sug...
A massif of high peaks, which forms the Nepal-Tibet border southwest of the Nangpa La, is generally unnamed on maps, although one of the northerly summits, 6,781m, is sometimes referred to as Jobo Rinjang (also Ribjang or Rabzang) and on the outda...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAYCalifornia, Temple CragOn October 4, Gary Niblock, Mike Nichols (both 48) and Mark Harris (42) were climbing an ice chute northwest of Temple Crag. About 1300, Harris reached the top first and began watching his friend...
Everest Clean-Up. Our 1992 team consisted of Tom Leech, Pierre Braun- schwig, Steve Kin, Chris Naumann, Kyle Schmierer, Peter Nichol and me. We arrived in Kathmandu on July 1 after two years of careful planning, expecting a warm welcome from the C...
South Eagle Beak, Beagle Creeks. Fred Beckey had climbed this dome via the south face, and Fremont Bainbridge, Conrad Van Bruggen and I had done two routes on the northern beak; this was the first route on the wide southwest face. It follows an ob...
FALL IN CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierJohn Howard and a companion ascended the Athabasca Glacier on 23 February 1978 to attempt either Snow Dome or Mt. Kitchener. At 1540 hours, under the headwall of the Atha...
Swelokan, south face and northwest ridge attempts. A small Japanese team became the first climbers to attempt the remote 6,180m Swelokan, which lies on the Tibet border north-north-east of Manaslu, in what is sometimes referred to as the Kutang Hi...
From June 18 to 25, Enrico Rosso, Alessandro Vanetti and I climbed alpine-style the first 1000 meters of a new route on the buttress on the left side of the north face of Thalay Sagar (UIAA VII, 80° ice). We ascended the entire buttress from the n...
Aguja de la S, Ascent. Brad Schilling and Michael Clifford climbed the lower south summit, approaching it from the west side, in mid-January, 1997.
Illiniza Sur, Southwest Face. After two previous visits in poor weather we made a new route on the southwest face of Illiniza Sur on September 13, 1982. Our team consisted of Jorge and Delia Montopoli and me. The approach to this face is much more...
Mount Torment-Forbidden Peak Traverse, Cascades. The mile and a half long, truly Alpine ridge running from Mount Torment (8200 feet) to Forbidden Peak (8900 feet) had long been an objective of mine. On July 26, 1958 Buck Seller and Edward Cooper a...
Sierra Nevada Ascents. By the time you read this, a new Sierra Nevada Climber’s Guide will have appeared, authored by R.J. Secor and published by The Mountaineers. The following is a list of previously unreported Sierra Nevada routes that arrived ...
Annapurna Dakshin Tragedy. An 11-man Greek expedition had hoped to climb the east face of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South) by the east face to the east ridge, the same route as the Hong Kong team in 1976. Four members, Deputy Leader Dimitris Bo...
El Potrero Chico, Battle Royale. Going to Mexico was perhaps the best decision I ever made. It is a land of happy people, cheap beer, and soaring limestone walls. What more could a climber ask for? Arriving at Homero’s campground, I flipped throug...
Saipal East, Attempt. Bruno Baumann, a professional adventurer and writer who lives in Munich but is an Austrian citizen, gave up his hope of making the first ascent of a peak that he has decided isn’t actually there. The peak is listed by Nepal’s...
Bhagirathi II. Japanese climbed Bhagirathi II by its east face. On October 16, leader Yoshiki Yamanaka, Masaki Hayashi, Yoko Mihara, Yuki Sato, Hitoshi Tsuge and a porter reached the summit (6512 meters, 21,364 feet) from Camp III. They had to biv...
The Rabbit Ears. These two pinnacles lie near the center of the northwest ridge of the Grand Teton, which forms the western boundary of Valhalla Canyon. On July 17, 1957 Fred Ayres and Leigh and Irene Orten- burger found the south pinnacle exposed...
Earth Angel, Long Canyon. In the spring of 1974 Ross Hardwick and I found and climbed the largest of the sandstone towers yet ascended in the Sedona-Oak Creek area. Earth Angel is a lofty 800-foot beauty poised against a secluded canyon wall sever...
Oregon, Mount Jefferson (1)—On September 6, 1954, Ben Oman (32), Sam Tompkins (42) and Robert Lee (42) climbed to the top of Jefferson by the East route, a climb which should be done only by experienced climbers. The trail marked with wands by a p...
Goose Rock, Squamish, B. C. Destined to be the “Yosemite of the Northwest,” Goose Rock, at the head of Howe Sound, has been attracting rock climbers since the recent opening of the new road to Squamish. The west and north walls rise virtually from...