Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Agjua de la S

Aguja de la S. A Japanese solo climber made several unsuccessful attempts at climbing a new route on Aguja de la S’s west face in November, 1995. Further details are lacking.Cameron M. Burns


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hayes, Southwest Face

Mount Hayes, Southwest Face. After climbing the east ridge of Deborah, Carl Tobin and I hauled loads on top-heavy, overloaded sleds over a 9450-foot col and down onto the Susitna Glacier. We were able to dump half our loads on the lateral moraine ...


Club Activities AAJ
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc.

Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. The Memphis Mountaineers had a productive year despite what seems to be a slow but steady reduction of available climbing spots. The 1992 membership consists of 63 members not only in Memphis, Tennessee, but throughout t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Chomo Lonzo, North and Central Summits, First Ascents

Chomo Lonzo, North and Central Summits, first ascents. An eight-man French team of Stéphane Benoist, Yann Bonneville, Aymeric Clouet, Yannick Graziani, Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Chris- tophe Moulin (leader), Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Chimborazo, Pico Nicolás Martínez

Chimborazo, Pico Nicolás Martínez. Of the four peaks of Chimborazo, its lowest (c. 5570 meters, 18,275 feet) is the most attractive and most difficult. It was named “Nicolás Martínez” after a great Ecuadorian pioneer of the early 1900s. In 1983, t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, The Titan, Sundevil Chimney, First Free Ascent

Potash Road/Wall Street, Desert Spindrift. In the middle of September Nathan Martin and I climbed a new route that went to the rim overlooking Potash. Our route began with an existing route called Pinhead (5.10). We then continued up the prominent...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Tahoma Glacier Route, Mount Rainier

Tahoma Glacier Route, Mount Rainier. On June 8, 1958 an interesting variation of the Tahoma Glacier route was made by a group of Tacoma Mountaineers, Leroy Ritchie, Larry Heggerness, Allan Van Buskirk, Edward Drues, Bob Walton, Monte Haun, and Mar...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on rock, Belayer Error, North Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Gumby's Roof

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, BELAYER ERRORNorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Gumby's RoofRingo Willoughby (31) and a female friend were top-rope climbing in the Gumby’s Roof area on Crowders Mountain during the afternoon of Saturday April 21. ...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Shasta

California, Mt. Shasta. On 9 October George Smith (28) and Henry Dodge (27) were descending the North Wintun Glacier on the east side of the summit of Mt. Shasta with Smith leading the descent. The party was unroped, but equipped with ice axes and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Neacola Mountains, First Full-Length Ski Traverse

Neacola Mountains, first full-length ski traverse. Next time you’re in Anchorage on a sunny evening, go downtown to Fourth Street and have a pint at Simon and Seafort’s Grill. As you hydrate, look through the picture windows across Cook Inlet. The...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Yutmaru Sar Attempt

Yutmaru Sar Attempt. Our expedition in the late summer found the southeast ridge of Yutmaru Sar objectively too dangerous and so we turned to a spur which led to the west ridge of Kanjut Sar, hoping to descend from there to the Kanjut-Yutmaru col....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Attempt

Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of James Merel, Yves Tedeschi, Jean Clauzier, Dr. Sylvie Romin, Jacques Maurin, Norbert Silvin and me as leader. Originally we had permission for the southwest buttress of Dhaulagiri but we changed i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, various ascents

Bugaboos, various ascents. In addition to climbs reported above, several other new routes and variations were made. In July, Jonathan Copp and Jeff “Pouche” Hollenbaugh added a 600' direct start, called Where’s Isaac? (5.11d), to the Pretty Vacant...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Mount Russell, West Face

Mount Russell, West Face. Steve Untch and I did a new route on the west face of Mount Russell (III, 5. 10d). We started about 20 feet right of the Rowell-Jones route and kept straight up for nine pitches. The short fourth pitch was 5.10a and the f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin, Winter Attempt 1984-5

Annapurna Dakshin, Winter Attempt, 1984-5. Three Japanese, led by Nobuaki Miyano, attempted Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South) by its west ridge. This first winter ascent did not succeed. They reached a high point of 6300 meters on January 6 and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Nuevo Leon, The Muñeca, La Muñequita

The Muñeca, La Muñequita. This 5,000' peak, 30 miles west of the Potrero Chico, was previously unclimbed because of the vertical sandstone capstone (100' to 300', depending on which side). However, there are several good-looking cracks on every si...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh-Rupshu, Bhujang, First Ascent

Bhujang, First Ascent. When the main team of the Indian Siachen Glacier Expedition left for the Indira Col (see above), we descended to CIII to attempt a 6560-meter peak. From July 10 to 14, we established a Base Camp on the eastern bank of the ma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Bhagirathi II

Bhagirathi II. A 9-member Indian team led by Narayan Chandra Pramanik climbed Bhagirathi II. They set up two high camps. Prokash Kujur and high-altitude porters Rajendra Singh and Sher Singh from Lata reached the summit on August 8.Kamal K. Guha, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, South Ridge of Teepe's Pillar

South Ridge of Teepe’s Pillar. Willi and Jolene Unsoeld and Norman Lee followed on August 10, 1957 the extreme southeast ridge of the triangular south face, using small ledges which overhang the face. The third lead, a very difficult pitch, was th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, The Brothers and The Sisters, Castle Dome Mountains

The Brothers and The Sisters, Castle Dome Mountains. The Brothers and the Sisters are four separate summits forming a huge massif directly east of the end of the Castle Dome road northeast of Yuma. Jerry McCrea and I made the first ascent of all b...