Museum at Lourdes. Visitors to the Pyrenees, when they pass through Lourdes, should not fail to visit the museum in the Chateau-Fort. Maintained since 1920 by the Touring Club of France, it is the country’s best regional museum. Besides many exhib...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the summer the club conducted its 14th western outing, with Jack Weisman as chairman, in the Grenadier range in southwestern Colorado. Base camp was in Elk Creek Valley and was attended by 56 people. Ascents wer...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Cascade Section had an active year in 1979. Our Activities Committee organized a slide show by the well- known British climber Chris Bonington with over 700 people attending. A scheduled slide and movie presentation by...
North summit of North Tower of Paine, free ascent. On February 17,2002, Allison Pennings and I climbed a new route on the west face of the north summit of the North Tower of Paine. Our route follows the route Adrenalina Vertical for two pitches be...
Dhaulagiri V. Dr. Tesuo Matsumura was the field leader of the Kyusho University Alpine Club expedition to Dhaulagiri V (24,992 feet). While attempting the south ridge, Fukashi Chijiwa, Yukio Asano and two Sherpas were on October 5 swept down 2000 ...
Aconcagua, 1989-1990 Season. A total of 353 expeditions registered last season to climb Aconcagua: 81 from Argentina; 77, United States; 39, Germany; 30, Spain; 24, Japan; 23, France; and 11, Switzerland. With less than 10 were Brazil, Bulgaria, C...
Rimo Group. An expedition of 25 Indian Army Engineers was led by Captain K.S. Sooch. From August 11 to 13 they divided up among seven different peaks and climbed them all. The highest one climbed was P 7159 (23,488 feet). The first ascent was made...
Aguja Saint Exupery, Austrian Ridge, first free ascent. Beginning on January 29, ten days after we arrived in Chalten, Jonny Copp and I were treated to nearly 16 days of continuous good weather, interrupted only occasionally by 10- to 15-hour peri...
New Routes on Picos Bolívar, Santander and Ojeda. After several weeks of difficulty both in obtaining permission from Indian authorities and in actually passing through Indian lands after permission was granted, we set up Base Camp at 15,000 feet ...
FALL ON ICE, FALLING OBJECT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Colorado, San Juan MountainsOn December 31, 1989, Kevin Kelley (28) was being top-roped on an ice climb near County Road 361 when he fell a little over a meter and dislodged a log (15 cm diameter ...
FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineOn January 25, a party of four was ascending the Fan in Huntington Ravine when one of them (3 8) fell and slid into two other people in his party, causing them t...
Ultar II Attempts. Our expedition consisted of Japanese Masahiko Fujimori, Masaaki Mori, Satoru Miyashita, Kazuo Kishi, Shigeo Furuhata, Ken Takahashi, Kiyohiko Sugimoto and me as leader, Pakistanis Tufail, deputy leader, Raja and Mansoor, and Ame...
A Tourist Guide to Mount McKinley, by Bradford Washburn. Anchorage (Northwest Publishing Co., Box 4-EEE, Anchorage, Alaska, 99503): 1971. Size 10? × 8¼, 80 pages, with 106 black and white or color photographs, mostly by Bradford Washburn, line dra...
Northeast Face of Disappointment Peak, Tetons. In mid-July, Willi Unsoeld and Richard Pownall made a new route of severe difficulty on this remarkably smooth face. After a few rope-lengths up the east ride of Disappointment Peak from the notch abo...
Utah—Petes Rock, Salt Lake County: In the early part of September, 1953, John R. Bendall (25) was rappelling 90 feet on the Wasatch Mountain Club practice rock. The rope used was a half-inch army nylon (not war surplus) 5 to 6 years old which seem...
Everest Attempt. Climbing the historic route which claimed the lives of Mallory and Irvine in 1924, the Wyoming Centennial Everest Expedition, commonly called “Cowboys on Everest,” led by Courtney Skinner, fought against weather conditions resulti...
NO HARDHAT OR CLIMBING HARNESS—British Columbia, Coast Range, Mt. Waddington. A party of eight persons, most of them members of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club, was packing 50-pound loads up to high camp for Mt. Waddington. Atop the Bravo...
SLIP ON ICE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Scott IcefieldOn August 18, 1993, J.B. and A.G. were out for a day trip on the Scott Glacier. J.B. was walking above A.G. and about 60 meters above the toe of the glacier, when J.B. slipped and fell. T...
New peaks in 2001. A press release from Kathmandu on April 10 declared that His Majesty’s Government would open 15 new peaks within one week and 50 more during the post monsoon season. However, after the spring season was underway the Government a...
Gasherbrum I Ladies’ Expedition and the Tragic Broad Peak Reconnaissance. Poles Wanda Rutkiewicz and Ewa Pankiewicz completed the first “ladies-only” climb of Gasherbrum I, which had been climbed by three different women, in 1982, 1986 and 1989. T...