Colorado National Monument, Various Ascents. One of the most beautiful areas for desert climbing, Colorado National Monument has traditionally been overlooked by the majority of desert climbers. Not entirely, however. Each year the deep sandstone ...
Mount Raleigh, Coast Range. Werner Himmelsbach, John Owen, Jim Woodfield, and I of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club, flew from Campbell River to Icewall Lake, some 30 miles southeast of the head of Bute Inlet. This was a hazardous landing ...
Ombigaichen, first recorded ascent of newly opened peak and first winter ascent. Ombigaichen (6,340m) is one of the new trekking peaks authorized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association in 2002. Our expedition consisted of Charles Burr (U.K.), Jo ...
Meru Central, northeast face, variation. On September 17 Marek Holecek and I reached base camp at Tapovan, with the intention of climbing the Shark’s Fin on Meru Central (6,310m). From the 18th to the 23rd we acclimatized and bouldered. On the 24t...
Cerro Torre, First British Ascent. Paul Morres (UK), Mark Wilford (US) and I (UK/US) found ourselves in Patagonia on October 25. I had climbed Fitz Roy 18 years earlier and was quite surprised to see the growth of the small village of Chalten. The...
Mount Sanford, Wrangell Mountains. Mount Sanford was climbed twice by the standard route. On July 15 Barbara Lilley, Richard Gnagy, J. Ohrenschall, T. Wheeler and A. McDermott made the sixth ascent. On July 24 O. Inoue, K. Yamaguchi and S. Uesugi ...
Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth in 2007, I trekked around the Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys for about nine days, hiking up hillsides, over passes, and up subsidiary valleys t...
Huascarán. After four days’ conditioning in the Cordillera Negra, Hans Zogg, leader, Mike Rees, Gary Rose, Lee West, Harold Williams and I used eight days to reach the summit of Huascarán on July 10. The climb was by the regular route.Victor Josendal
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn August 13, 1994, Arnold Schmidt and Patrick Dennis (39) were climbing on the Glacier Route of the Middle Teton when Dennis fell approximately 150 feet. Injuries ...
Huandoy Norte, Pisco. The expedition of the Klub Wysokogórski, Posnan, led by Stanislaw Zierhoffer, had hoped to climb the south face of Huandoy Sur, but found that it had already been done. They turned to Huandoy Norte. On August 17 and 18, 1976 ...
Mt. Hooker, Brain Larceny, Second Ascent, and Buffalo Head, East Face, The Skeptic. Cameron Teague and I made the second ascent of Brain Larceny (Donahue-Harvey, 1994) free in one day on August 25. The grade was confirmed at V 5.12R. The line foll...
Mount Russell. In late September Alan Bartlett and I climbed two new routes on the west side of this peak. 1). Bloody Corner. Just left of the Direct Southwest Buttress route is an obvious steep dihedral, the crux of our route. Climb up for a few ...
Tombstone Mountains Correction. On the last line of page 161 of A.A.J., 1982 Mount Monolith is incorrectly given as Mount Mordith.
Colorado, Dome Peak, Boulder Canyon—On August 7, Dan Sawtelle (17) and Larry West (17) climbed Dome Peak. They established a rappel by driving in two pitons and running a sling between them. West rappelled first successfully. Sawtelle then rappell...
Mount Sir Sandford, East Ridge, Selkirks. On our 18-day trip we made the first ascent of the east ridge of Sir Sandford and what is believed to be the second crossing of Austerity Glacier, by which Palmer climbed Austerity in 1911. We followed Pal...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE KNOTColorado, Ouray Ice ParkOn March 19, Greg Kowalsky (age unknown) fell 70 feet when his knot came undone as he was preparing to be lowered by his partner who was belaying him from the ground.Despite efforts of emergency ...
Chogolisa Attempt. On August 5, my partner Andrew Brash (Canada) and I reached Chogolisa Base Camp on the Baltoro Glacier. Our objective was to try a new route on the northeast face. This was quickly put to bed when we watched avalanches strafe ou...
Pinnacle Peak. Our group of fifteen traveled by bus over the White Pass-Yukon route and up the Alaska Highway to the air strip at Kluane Lake only to learn that our first objective, Mount King George, had just been climbed. We became a climbing ex...
Wyoming, Tetons, Symmetry Spire (2). On July 15 John Biehn and Albert Sickler (31) had completed a successful ascent of Symmetry Spire and were descending via the Symmetry Spire Couloir. They were glissading down the snowfield when Sickler slipped...
Pucahirca Oeste, Tayapampa, Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca. We arrived in the Quebrada Tayapampa towards the end of May, setting up Base Camp in the disused campamento on the shore of Pucacocha at 14,750 feet. Jim Jolly, our leader, who was suffering...