Book Reviews AAJ
The Age of Mountaineering

The Age of Mountaineering, by James Ramsey Ullman. 352 pages, 24 photographs, 6 maps and sketches. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1954. Price, $6.00.Banner in the Sky, by James Ramsey Ullman. 252 pages. Philadelphia and New York:...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, P 20,101 and Others, South Parbati Region, Kulu

P 20,101 and. others, South Parbati Region, Kulu. A small English party comprising John Cardy, Geoff Cohen, Dick Isherwood and me visited the South Parbati region. We enjoyed excellent weather and conditions and climbed six peaks, including P 20,1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Rakhmat (5,144m), North Face and Northeast Ridge; Pik 4,887m, West Face and South Ridge; Tushunbodum (5,081m), North Face Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Djangart Range

Armed with much useful information provided by Mike Royer after his expedition to the region in 2010 (AAJ 2011), we traveled from Mallorca to Bishkek, arriving July 14. Two days later we started our long road trip to the mountains in the company o...

| Published 2011


Book Reviews AAJ
Lumpy Ridge and Estes Park Rock Climbs

Lumpy Ridge and Estes Park Rock Climbs. Scott Kimball. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1986. 184 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings. $15.00 (paper).This guidebook represents a compilation and updating of Scott Kimball’s three earlier work...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tadjikistan, Southwestern Pamir, Pik Engels, West Face to Foresummit, Russian Roulette II

Pik Engels, west face to foresummit, Russian Roulette II. In August the Alpine Fund of Tajikistan organized an expedition to Piks Karl Marx (6,723m) and Engels (6,510m) in the Gorno-Badakhshan region of Tajikistan. The expedition comprised Murod A...


Club Activities AAJ
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The activities of the Hoofer Mountaineers for 1956 included three major trips to western areas in addition to regular Sunday practice climbs at Devil’s Lake State Park, Wisconsin. These bluffs are an ideal place to q...


Feature Article AAJ
Fitz Roy's West Face

Fitz Roy’s West FaceRobert Gálfy, lames, Slovak Mountaineering AssociationTranslated by Tamara KoricanskaCZECHOSLOVAKIAN climbers led by Michal Orolin spent nearly two months from December 27, 1981 to February 17, 1982 on Fitz Roy, hoping to ascen...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Yogeshwar

Yogeshwar. Our team was composed of Steve Adderley, Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and me. On October 2, the latter three made the second ascent of Yogeshwar (6678 meters, 21,910 feet) by a new route on the objectively dangerous south face. We thought...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Rope Stuck, North Carolina, The Amphitheater, Linville Gorge Wilderness Area

STRANDED, ROPE STUCKNorth Carolina, The Amphitheater, Linville Gorge Wilderness AreaTwo climbers with limited experience on moderate trad routes planned on spending several days camping and climbing at Linville Gorge. On November 23, they hiked in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shimshal Area—Ghujerab Muztagh, Four First Ascents in the Ganj'dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley

Four first ascents in the Ganj’dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley. Before meeting Yannick Graziani to make the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South (featured in this Journal), Christian Trommsdorff led a small group of experienced clients to Pakistan’s Shims...


Feature Article AAJ
The North American Andean Expedition 1958

The North American Andean Expedition 1958Leigh OrtenburgerUPON return from an expedition which had no other purpose than to attempt mountain ascents, from an expedition on which a very good friend died of pneumonia almost at the very beginning, fr...


In Memoriam AAJ
Harry Fielding Reid, 1859-1944

HARRY FIELDING REID1859-1944When an ardent mountaineer becomes a professional geologist whose chosen fields of research include the mechanics of mountain building and the operation of glaciers, the combination is a happy one. Sport and study then ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Exposure, Inadequate Equipment and Physical Conditioning, Weather, Inexperience, Washington, Mount Rainier

EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND PHYSICALCONDITIONING, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn March 8, 1993, at 0920, RMI senior guide George Dunn radioed to Paradise that three independent climbers would need to be rescued. The climbe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Adams

Washington, Mt. Adams—On June 30, at 2:15 A.M. a party of six men from Yakima, Ellensburg, and Toppenish started the ascent of Mt. Adams by the Adams Glacier. Bob McCall (35) and Don Jones (19) comprised the first rope; Mike McGuire (20) and David...


Feature Article AAJ
Trisul's Aleš Kunaver Memorial Route

Trisul’s Aleš Kunaver Memorial RouteVlasta Kunaver, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaTRISUL, THE FAMOUS MOUNTAIN with its three summits, had long fascinated us. Trisul stands for the three-pointed trident of the goddess Nanda, Shiva’s consort....


Accident Reports ANAM
Accidents Occurring in 1958 not Previously Reported, California, Mt. Darwin

California, Mt. Darwin—On August 13, Mrs. Hunt (42), her husband, and son were descending Mt. Darwin in a storm consisting of thunder, hail, snow and rain. They had traversed the ridge and were descending a snow chute above the Darwin glacier to t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow Glacier

FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow GlacierOn June 4, at 1130, Wendt Andreas (34) of the High Dreams expedition checked in at the 14,000 foot Ranger Camp. Andreas had frozen all his fingers on both hands. His companions Mario Bornsch...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount Russell's East Face

Mount Russell’s East FaceCharles TownsendWE HAD SEEN THE PEAK both from Hunter and Foraker—it stood out like a shark’s fin on the horizon—and the Washburn photos in the rangers’ notebooks got us even more fired up. Mount Russell had been climbed t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Ulamertorssuaq, Jacques Cousteau

Ulamertorssuaq, Jacques Cousteau. It was reported that in 1997, Spanish climbers Miquel Angel Gallego, José Luis Clavel, José Matas and José Seiquer put up Jacques Cousteau (F6c A4, 1000m) on the left side of Ulamertorssuaq’s west summit. Further ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Meru North and Shivling II

Meru North and Shivling II. German Bahillo, Juan Carlos Bahillo, Simón Elias and I arrived at Base Camp at Tapovan at 4400 meters on September 4. Our first climb was a new route on the 1250-meter-high east face of Meru North (6450 meters, 21,162 f...