ILLNESSNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn August 1981, Chris Armelagos (25) was 20 feet up the first pitch of Refuse when he went into full cardiac arrest with no spontaneous pulse or respiration. CPR was begun immediately by climbers, including EMT...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Reed's PinnacleOn September 23, Aram Marks (21) was leading Stone Groove, a one-pitch 5.10b crack at Reed’s Pinnacle. Tricia (29) was belayi...
Peaks in Barnaj and Chiring Valleys. The North of England Kishtwar Expedition made several first ascents in August and September. We had initially hoped to attempt Barnaj II from the north but inspection showed an impossible river crossing and so ...
Cutthroat Peak, East Face of North Summit, North Cascades. Joe Bajan and I on September 21 did this fine route, which is about 500 feet north of the Chouinard and Burdo routes on the main east face. We followed granite flakes just right of the obv...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 26 September while descending a boulder field with a slope of approximately 45°, Gary Leonard (25) stepped out onto a large boulder about the size of a dining room table. It tipped forward, causing him to jum...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 3, 1983, Peter Kohl (20) and climbing partner Robert Fostner were starting the first pitch of the South Face of Washington Column. Kohl, who was leading, had progressed pas...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. All in all, 1977 was a quiet year for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club continued its interest in the Chugach Mountains, which lie at our doorstep. However, we also had members climbing in the Talkeetnas an...
Dunagiri. Polish students led by Grzegorz Benke repeated the original Swiss route and made what is probably the seventh ascent of Dunagiri (7066 meters, 23,183 feet). Benke and Andrzej Hartmann reached the summit on August 18 after nights in camps...
Ruby Wall. In September, Malcolm Ives and I added a third new route to this fine wall, “Wide Sargasso Sea.” Our climb takes a direct line to the summit, staying right of Galen Rowell’s 1982 route until the summit dihedral. Eight pitches with a del...
FALL ON SCREE SLOPE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tower of BabelOn June 8, 1985, three scramblers had ascended the Tower of Babel at Moraine Lake by the trail up the back side. They decided to return by the normal descent route, the scr...
Barnaj II, Padar, Kishtwar. Our expedition comprised Jim Curran, Tony Riley, Bob Toogood, John Yates, liaison officer Hanuman Suthar and me. Toogood fell ill and had to return home from Massu. Late processing of our application in Delhi held us up...
North Face in Winter by Toni Hiebeier. Translated from the German Im Banne der Spinne by Hugh Merrick. New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1963. 121 pages, 21 photographs. Price $3.95.Hiebeler’s account of the first winter ascent of the Eigerwand is a...
Manda. Our members were Masatosi Sasaki, Tomoyuki Sogabe, Takanori Sasaki, Hiroyuki Kawaguchi and I. We set up Base Camp on May 29 at 13,775 feet at Kedarganga Kharak. We set up Camp I on June 2 on the Manda Glacier at 16,400 feet and Camp II on J...
Two Mountains and a River, by H. W. Tilman. xii + 232 pages, with plates and maps. Cambridge University Press, 1949. Price, $3.75.It is probable that if Tilman were landed on the moon he would succeed in penetrating its least accessible places, li...
Domeland. One of Domeland’s most prominent rock formations is a large crag with a smokestack tower on its south end. It was dubbed Steamship Rock by Jim Stoddard and me after we made the first ascent of its east face in November 1970. This is a fo...
Escape on Skis, by Brian Meredith. 8 vo., pp. 200, with illustrations. New York: Dodge Press, 1938. Price $3.00.As one schusses through the pages of the snows of Canada and Switzerland one catches the idea of a technique which is never mentioned i...
English Coast and Eastern Ellsworth Land, 1984-5. On December 11, a seven-person U.S. Geological Survey party, including Pete Rowley, leader, Karl Kellogg, Tom Laudon, Dave Lidke, Mike O’Neill, Janet Thomson and me, flew from McMurdo Station to Fi...
University of Wyoming Outing Club. Last spring the activities of the club, under the able leadership of Gary Pouch, included several noteworthy events. Among them was the second winter ascent of the Medicine Bow Diamond by J. Halfpenny, T. Warren,...
On October 10 local Anchorage climber John Kelley and I walked to the north face of Mt. Yukla, via Icicle Creek, for some early season alpine climbing. We climbed a previously tried line that shared its start with two of John’s established routes,...
Ama Dablam West Face. Our expedition was composed of Swiss Ruedi Homberger, Christian Jäggi, Willi Kuhn and Franco Giorgetta and Czechoslovaks Josef Rybicka, Michal Brunner, Jirí Havel, Miroslav Mžourek, Karel Jerhot, Günter Koch and me as leader....