Yukshin Gardan Sar Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Shigenobu Otake, leader, Tetsuya Nisiyama, Hiroshi Hori, Kaneyuki Sugimoto, Kosuke Kamio and me. We made the approach from Nagar to Temporary Base Camp (13,775 feet) on the Kunyang Glacier...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. A 15-man Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Has- egawa failed to climb Dhaulagiri by the normal northeast-ridge route. Hasegawa and Shinishi Ishi made a bid for the summit on November 3 from Camp III at 24,600 feet and reached 2...
Canadian Rockies, summary. The variable weather of summer 2002 defied forecasting but paved the way for a remarkable fall. July saw some notable ascents in the front range. The northeast aspect of Mt. Rundle is lined with rock buttresses up to 500...
P 13,680+, Mount Sill, Mount Mendel and Other climbs, 1990. In June, 1990, Ken Kenega and I climbed a dihedral on P 13,680+ for seven pitches on the right of the Rowell route (III, 5.10a). In July, Kevin Malone and I did a direct finish of Mount S...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. An expedition from the Slovenskega Planinskega Drustva Trst (Slovene Mountain Club of Trieste) led by Luciano Cergol tried to climb Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South) by its southwest ridge. Cergol and Luciano Milic rea...
El Potrero Chico, Feral Dover Ridge and Monster Truck. Feral Dover Ridge (15 pitches, 5. 10dX, Cindy Tolle and I, September) starts on Dope Ninja and follows the ridge for 2,000' to the summit of the Sense of Religion Wall (it’s essentially a cont...
Changla, First Ascent. In the autumn, the west summit of Changla in northwestern Nepal on the border with Tibet was successfully scaled for the first time. Changla had been attempted only once before, 15 years ago, by Japanese, who are believed to...
Bhagirathi II. We established Base Camp at Nandanban on August 24, Camp I at 16,650 feet on August 30 and Camp II at 19,020 feet on the southeast ridge on September 1. On September 3, Swapan Kumar Ghosh, Sher Singh Rawat, Ashok Ghosh, high-altitud...
Northeast Face of Teewinot Mountain. William and Evelyn Cropper and John Dietschy climbed this impressive face July 13, 1957 directly up its center. This significant new route proved to be moderately difficult.
Passes over the Central Asian Watershed, First Crossings. John Mock and Kimberley O’Neil completed a 29-day exploration of the Ghujerab Mountains in the northern Karakoram Range northeast of the Shimshal Pass and west of the Shaksgam (Muztagh) and...
Kangchenjunga Traverses. The second Soviet Himalayan expedition had 32 members, of whom 22 climbers spent two years of hard training and high- altitude acclimatization in the Caucasus, Pamir and Tien Shan. The leader was Eduard Myslovsky, who in 1...
Totem Pole, Monument Valley. Ken Wyrick and I were hired by Universal Studios to “put the rope up” for the filming of the desert part of the movie Eiger Sanction. We spent 14 days on the Totem Pole and its nearby walls. Our duties were primarily t...
Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090m), southeast face, Yel-la Sadike; south face, Kabir Hajar. I knew little about climbing in Oman until January 3,2008 when Pavle Kozjek showed me a picture of Jabal Misht. Things then progressed fast, and by the 20...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE New Hampshire, Canon CliffOn October 16, 1988, Marc Fragge (23) and Joel Sunshine (24) were killed when the granite block they had anchored to apparently came off. One was rappelling and the other was tied off, waiting to rap...
High Altitude Deterioration. J. Rivolier, P. Cerretelli, J. Foray, and P. Segantini, editors. Karger, New York. 1985. 227 pages, many diagrams and tables. $65.00.In March 1984 some 350 doctors and climbers from 20 countries met in Chamonix to hear...
Negruni Group, Huayna Potosí, Chearoco, Casiri, Illampu, Pico del Norte, Cordillera Real, 1973. From June to August 1973 the Württemberg Friends of Nature Expedition carried out its Bolivian Expedition. Günter Schnait, Dr. Alexander Schlee, Georg ...
FALLS, FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATPennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap N.R.A.There continues to be more climbing and off-trail hiking in this reservation. Two of the three reports we received involved rappels. In May, a 17 year old female was climbing u...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE PULLED THROUGH BELAY DEVICEColorado, Clear Creek Canyon, Wall of the 90'sOn March 10, I (36) had successfully climbed the route Hot Stuff (5.10c). My two partners and I were climbing on a 70m rope, a standard length for this rou...
P 5705, Tokosha Mountains. My Dad dropped Dr. Richard Griffith and me off by plane on Home Lake, which is along the Tokositna River five miles south of the higher peaks of the Tokoshas and 5500 feet lower than Tokosha Peak. We had cached a canoe t...
Kings Canyon, Windy Cliff—On August 27, 1954, Roy Arnold (approx. 30) and Ed Barnes (approx. 30) rappeled down the face of Windy Cliff in Kings Canyon in an effort to get at the entrance of Cliff Cave which is located near the top but on the face ...