Penny-Nickel Arête. On April 7 Kep Stone and I climbed a new route on the wall to the left of the Penny-Nickel Arête. The route starts several hundred feet left of the arête and leads up cracks and ramps, angling slightly to the left for seven pit...
Spanish Reconnaissance, Huaytapallana and Vilcanota. Angel Anglada and Miguel Gómez Sánchez made the third ascent of Lasuntay (18,964 feet) in the Cordillera de Huaytapallana on August 8. In the Cordillera Vilcanota they tried the Campa peaks but ...
Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. Between the Grand Arch and Easter Tower lies a four-pitch mixed aid and free climb route on Halloween Buttress, first climbed on October 29 by Curtis Stout, Eric Bjornstad and me. Thirty-four pitons were used, and a fr...
New Routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. In July Charlie Logan and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Spearhead. The right side of the face is a triangular plate, laced with a spider’s web of cracks, and with a hooked top. Our route...
Kun and P 6300 above Phirtse Pass. Five German climbers, led by Ludwig Greissl, and a Sherpa climbed Kun on August 19. A second group of nine, led by Franz Klement, got to the top on September 2. Two of a group in the Zanskar climbed an unnamed pe...
Peaks in the Azufre area. Between January 26 and February 9, climbers of the Asociación de Andinismo de O’Higgins made the following first ascents in the Azufre group, located 40 miles east of San Fernando in Central Chile: Alto del Azufre, 4550 m...
Mercedario, East Face, 1978. On December 19, 1978 we established Base Camp at 15,100 feet in the Río Blanco valley. On December 25 Theo Dowbenka, Sebastian Hohenreiter, Rudolf Friedhuber, Dr. Joachim Kayser and I climbed unroped to “El Caballito,”...
Makalu, Solo Winter Attempt. Frenchman Ivan Ghirardini attempted first the very difficult west buttress of Makalu in winter. After a first sortie, on January 7 he bivouacked at 19,350 feet and on January 8 at 22,000 feet. On January 9 he reached 2...
Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur variation. The sun is setting, and the cold is creeping down the Kahiltna. It is May 16, and Eamonn Walsh and I have just been spit out of the last plane of the day at Kahiltna base camp. We stare up at the Moonflower Bu...
Kakhari and other peaks Northern Kohistan. From the roadhead at Gabral, A. Cormack, leader, R. Metcalfe, J. Peck, Dr. I. Piper and I walked up the Gabral valley for 25 miles and set up Base Camp at 11,000 feet. From there another camp was put in a...
Out of Mosquito Flats, and past Ruby Lake, on September 26 Miguel Carmona and I established the East Corner (IV 5.9) on the steep Ruby Wall (east wall) of Ruby Peak. The route climbs eight pitches to a summit where the East Arête and Left Ea...
Bethartoli South, Mrigthuni, and Attempts on Bethartoli Himal. Bethar- toli Himal was attempted by an expedition led by Professor Ramesh G. Desai and sponsored by the Climbers Club, Bombay. Others were Harish B. Kapadia, Jagdish C. Nanavati, Dr. P...
Winter traverse of the range; Mt. Marcus Baker, South Ridge-Knik variation. During the summer of 2003 we started talking about a winter traverse of the Chugach Range, from Prince William Sound to the road system. If we encountered favorable condit...
Skilbrum, Ascent and Tragedy. A 17-member Japanese expedition made the second ascent of Skilbrum (7360m) via either the original Southwest Face route or the South Face (it is unclear which) on August 17. Eight climbers made it back to base camp on...
Coast Ranges. In the summer of 1967, two projects of the Geological Survey of Canada did initial mapping of the Coast Mountains from Monarch Icecap south, through the Waddington group, to the Homathko Snowfield. Although basically a helicopter ope...
Two Expeditions to the North Pole. In 1978 Japanese Naomi Uemura reached the North Pole alone with a dog team. He was resupplied by air. He was airlifted back to his base. That same year other Japanese led by Kaneshige Ikeda also sledged to the No...
Elephants’ Perch, West Face. In July my brother Greg and I climbed the first lead of Beckey’s original route. Then, rather than traverse left to continue that route, we headed straight up, basically free, until after seven pitches we diagonaled le...
Mt. Boullard, Foster-Ricci. Mt. Boullard, a relatively benign-looking peak bordering both the Juneau Ice Field and the terminus of the Mendenhall Glacier to the east, rises abruptly from just above sea level to its 4,200' summit. Unusually good ic...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The Colorado College Mountain Club at Colorado Springs has a membership of about 60 collegiate climbers. Its principal out-of-state trip in 1961 was to Mexico, where ascents of Orizaba and Popocateptl were made. In ...
Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome South. A Polish expedition climbed in the Hispar Muztagh. They were Ryszard Kowalewski, leader, Andrzej Bielun, Dr. Jacek Gronczewski, Tadeusz Piotrowski and Jerzy Tillak. Their baggage was lost for two weeks by...