Champará Group. In July we spent ten days in the Champará group. We entered the Quebrada Coronquillo from the Hacienda Mira Santa by a circuitous route dictated by the earthquake damage of the previous year. We climbed P 5273 (17,300 feet) and two...
Mark Rolofson, Stuart Ritchie and I climbed a six-pitch variation to the 1964 Robbins route on the north face of Mount Hooker. We climbed the route entirely free except for 50 feet of A2 on the 14th pitch. We felt that if the rock were dry, this s...
On January 10, 2010, Waldo Farias and I did a new route, Inanición (“Starving”), on Cerro Freile (4,598m), Marmolejo Valley, Chile, 100km west of Santiago. The mountain is an island of granite between the typical bad rock of the Central Cordille...
Annapurna, Middle Summit, South Face. Our expedition was made up of only Nil Bohigas and me, though we had two friends in Base Camp. We intended to climb the route attempted by Alex MacIntyre and René Ghilini in 1982, but from the beginning it was...
Mount Charleston. As seen from the desert to the east, the northern upper crest of Mount Charleston in appearance justifies its local name, “Mummy Peak.” In October Scott Hamell and I climbed the northwest buttress, so prominent from the Lee Canyo...
California, Yosemite National Park, Indian Caves Area. On 25 March Jon Martin Spangler (18) and five companions were bouldering at Indian Caves. Spangler lost his grip and traction, slid 6 to 8 feet down an angle of rock, bounced and Hipped around...
Api. An eight-man expedition from Matsumoto Alpine Club was led by Katsuyuki Fukuzawa. After having delays on their approach due to porters being injured in a heavy snowstorm at Luwakhola from March 2 to 4, they got to Base Camp on March 24. Their...
Cerro Trinidad Sur, Der Grantler. On February 8, 2011, Mario Gilemann and I made the first ascent of Der Grantler on Cerro Trinidad Sur. The 230m route climbs close to and left of Pegadito en la Pared (7 pitches, 5.11c AO, Hartmann-Reimay, Februar...
Appalachian Mountain Club. Our members spent their summer in pursuit of diverse mountaineering challenges. Probably the most noteworthy was the ascent of Mount Huntington in Alaska by the east ridge by a party of five co-led by Frank Zahar and Nie...
P 6840, Ramparts. Billy Shott and Steve Gorhman ascended the southwest face of P 6840, a 1700-foot-high granite wall (5.10, A2). This peak lies west of P 6850, which was first climbed in 1991 by Fred Beckey and Clay Wadman. This is the second moun...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain, Bankhead ButtressA group of six soldiers were climbing on a cliff known as Bankhead Buttress, a few kilometers east of Banff. The leader came off w...
On August 11, a rock climber was stung more than 1,000 times when he and his three partners encountered a beehive about 6:30 p.m. and were attacked atop Mount Lemmon. His partners were able to escape the swarm, but he was stranded for several...
Poincenot, Banana Wall. After studying the region in hopes of opening a new route, we found a picture in the AAJ showing this magnificent north face with no line up the fractured center, between Old Smugglers (800m, 5.10+ A1/2, Crouch-Donini 1996)...
Drifika and Kapura, attempts. A six man Dutch team comprising Fedor Broekhoven, Coenradd Doeser, Wouter Dorigo, Bas Henzing, Martin Jongmans, and I were unsuccessful in our main objective, 6544m Kapura, south of the Charakusa Glacier. This beautif...
The Mountains, by Lorus J. Milne and Margery Milne and the Editors of Time-Life Books. New York: Time-Life Books. 1962, Revised 1970. 192 pages, 136 photographs, 35 drawings.This attractively designed presentation spans the vast subject of mountai...
Manaslu Attempt. Our objective had been to climb the normal northeast face of Manaslu and then I was to make an extreme ski descent of the southeast face. We were Michel-Albert Chamot, Jean-Pierre Susini, Patrick Gavard, Sylvain Baud, Serge Kempa ...
Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, new route attempt. The Slovenian, Tomaz Humar, was hoping to make an audacious solo ascent of a new route on the huge Rupal Face. From the beginning of July he made several attempts to acclimatize on the 1970 Sou...
Everest. Our international group consisted of Frenchmen Michel Vincent, leader, Jean-Pierre Maurus, Phillipe Arvis, Spanish Basque José Luis Sesma, Mexican Oscar Rodríguez, Canadian John Arnold, Sherpani Pasang Lhamu, and Americans David Powers an...
Aconcagua, Vía de los Guías de Mendoza. During nine days in early February, the Second Ecological Expedition to Aconcagua carried out its objectives of making a variant to the right of the normal route and left of the southwest ridge and of inspec...
Himalayan Guides. Jan Kielkowski. (Potsdamer Strasse 45, D-4000, Düsseldorf, Federal Republic of Germany.) These volumes vary in length from 45 to 85 pages and are in paper. 15 German Marks each.This remarkable set of studies of various Himalayan ...