Why I Climb: Personal Insights of Top Climbers. Steve Gardiner. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, PA, 1990. 130 pages, 27 black-and-white illustrations. Paperback, $12.95.Steve Gardiner, bravely reaching for the impossible, has created an entertaining ...
FALL ON ROCK WHILE SETTING UP RAPPELOregon, Rocky ButteOn February 24, Allison O’Grady (21), a Pacific University junior, fell from the top of Rocky Butte as she and a companion were setting up a rappel so they could descend their climb of the but...
Unnamed Peak, North Face, Ritacuba Group, Cordillera Oriental. Venezuelans Ricardo Hansen and I climbed on December 26, 1980 for the first time the steep north face of the sharp ice peak immediately south of Alto Ritacuba. Probable height is 5200 ...
Paria Point, Blitzkrieg. Established in May by Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson, Blitzkrieg (IV 5.9+ A2+/C2+) is an excellent Zion route with a moderate approach and excellent solitude. No other climbers and only a few hikers were encountered durin...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 25, at 0100, David Gallegos and his brother George (26) left from Covenant Height's Camp to climb Kiener's Route (III, AI1, 5.4) on the Ea...
Pabuk Kang, first known attempt. Two Japanese, led by the explorer-mountaineer Tamotsu Ohnishi, who specializes in visiting remote areas along Nepal’s border with Tibet, planned to try the south side of Pabuk Kang [6,244m; just east of the Pabuk L...
Diran, North Ridge. Our 11-man expedition placed Base Camp on the Minipin Glacier at 3400 meters on June 11. We crossed the Minipin Glacier to the foot of the north ridge, establishing Camps I and II at 3800 and 4600 meters on June 14 and 20. Camp...
P 10,600, Near Mount Hunter. On April 30 Stephen Mascioli and I looked up nearly 4000 feet to P 10,600, which forms the western rampart of Mount Hunter’s long curving south ridge. It lies 4¾ miles nearly due south of Hunter and ¾ of a mile west of...
Colorado, Boulder Canyon Cliff. On September 2, Tink Wilson, Art Dennison, and Robert Powers (27) were climbing a cliff in Boulder Canyon. They were in the above order with Wilson up about 220 ft. where he was being belayed by Dennison for the sum...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mt. Dan BeardDave Kempfer (19) and Grant Henke (19) both of Anchorage, Alaska, were part of a group of five climbers spending the month of May in the Sheldon Amphitheater area. The two were experienced rock and...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Aberdeen, North GlacierOn October 14, a party of five was climbing the lower tongue of this snow and ice route. The party solo climbed the ice tongue until the angle reached about 45...
Mt. Bona, St. Elias Mountains. On May 27, Paul Claus flew AAC members Steve Malmberg, George Rodway, Dan Vogt, and I to 10,500 feet on the upper Klutlan Glacier, just south of the Bona-Churchill plateau, to attempt Mt. Bona (16,421'). Our original...
Dhaulagiri. Our expedition was originally to attempt the southwest pillar but without enough tested Himalayan climbers living in Canada, we changed to the first-ascent route. We were Jon Jones, leader, Dr. Chuck Masters, Jim Elzinga, Don Gardner, ...
Mt. Plinth, North Face, New Route and Ski Descent. On February 11, Jia Condon, Sean “Woody” Tribe, Chris “Beeker” Rameski, and Darrel White snowmobiled 50 kilometers to Meager Hotsprings, where they spent a relaxing night. Way early the next morni...
Aguja Guillaumet Correction. On Page 211 of A.A.J., 1983 it was suggested that the route taken by the Buscainis on the Aguja Guillaumet may have been the same as that taken by Jennings and Beager. It appears that the Jennings-Beager route was well...
Ruth Gorge, The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, new variation. After trying to do ice and mixed climbing on Denali and Mt. Hunter, Julian Neumayer and I changed our plans because of Alaska’s tropical temperatures, flying to ...
South Inylchek Glacier, Various Ascents. It was reported that in this popular region, which gives access to the well-known Khan Tengri (6995 m) and Peak Pobeda (7439 m), an important repetition was made when a four-man team from St. Petersburg (P....
Cerro Torre. On January 10 Josef Heinl, Karl Schrag and I began our Patagonian adventure. Although we had hoped to climb the Cerro Torre by a new route, we are pleased to have got to the summit by the 1970 Maestri route on the southeast buttress o...
Vampire Spire, The Coffin and The Dark Side. On July 17 Pat Goodman and I began what seems to have become our annual journey to the Vampire region of Canada’s Northwest Territories. A blown alternator left us stranded in Fort St. John, B.C., for t...
Kangchenjunga Winter Ascent, 1988. A South Korean expedition led by Jung Sang-Moo made a winter ascent of the southwest face of Kangchenjunga. Lee Jeong-Chel made the 24th ascent of the mountain on January 2, 1988. On the way to Base Camp, a membe...