Meru Central, northeast face, variation. Yasuhiro Hanatani, Hiroyoshi Manome, Yasushi Okada, and I planned to climb Meru Central (6,310m) by the oft-tried line of the Sharks Fin or northeast pillar. We had attempted the route in 2004 but retreated...
North Tower Of Paine, East Face. Marko Prezelj and Andrej Stremfelj climbed a new 750-meter route on the east face of North Tower of Paine. They named it Born Under A Wandering Star (VI 5.10a A4 -). They arrived at basecamp on January 18. The firs...
Mount Gakona, Eastern Alaska Range. March found Steve O’Brien, Mark Hottman, Toby Wheeler and me planning the first and the first winter ascent of Mount Gakona (9850 feet) in the Delta Mountains. Gakona has two peaks a mile apart along a hairy kni...
Siguniang, southwest ridge integral. Over eight days in late September, Dylan Johnson and Chad Kellogg made the first complete ascent of the southwest ridge of Siguniang (6,250m) in the Qonglai Shan. In July 1992 eight Japanese climbers led by Chi...
Attempt on Cajavilca, Cordillera Blanca. During the last two weeks of August, Gary Ziegler and I attempted Cajavilca (18,947 feet). We had traveled overland from Colorado to Lima, largely by hitch-hiking. When we arrived in Lima, we had less than ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn August 13, 1994, Arnold Schmidt and Patrick Dennis (39) were climbing on the Glacier Route of the Middle Teton when Dennis fell approximately 150 feet. Injuries ...
Saptasring, Northeast Ridge Attempt. It was reported that a British expedition led by Andrew Blett reached a height of 5400 meters on May 29 on this unclimbed 5781-meter peak before being turned back by deep and unconsolidated snow. (High Mountain...
Huantsán, West Summit. After enormous delays and problems in the customs, the expedition of the Club Montanyenc Sant Cugat of Barcelona assembled in Huaraz. They were José María Navarro, Jorge Farrés, Miguel Garrell, Santi and Alfonso Ferrer, Vice...
Cathedral Peak, South Tower Direct. The spectacular 1,200-foot face of Cathedral Peak rises above Cathedral Lake, just seven miles from the Dickenson Park Trailhead on the Lander side of the range. Until Chris McNamara and I climbed the South Towe...
Charlotte Dome, E.B. White. Alan Bartlett and I put up a new route on this magnificent formation in August. Several hundred feet right and slightly uphill from Charlotte’s Web is a small pillar below two parallel water grooves. Our route follows t...
Climbing Season in Kluane National Park, Icefield Ranges, St. Elias Mountains. Mountaineering in the St. Elias Mountains was greatly reduced this summer as there were only ten groups in all. The following were successful. Americans Jim Himmes, Dav...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park—On July 31, Lester Reeble (45), Mrs. Al Spencer, George Lowe, and Amel Landgraf (leader), attempted to climb Chiefs Head (13,579) in Rocky Mountain National Park. The group left the parking area at 6:30 a.m. ...
Canadian Mountain Historical Societies. Historical Societies have recently been formed in Banff and Jasper for the purpose of preserving documents and other items relating to these areas of the Canadian mountains. The society in Banff has quarters...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONColorado, Eldorado State ParkOn February 22, a thirty year old female climber was walking along the base of the Rincon Wall when she was struck on the right forearm by a falling rock about the size of a climbing helmet. ...
Gosherbrum IV Attempt. It was reported that the South Korean team referred to above reached a height of 6400 meters before deciding conditions were too dangerous to continue. (High Mountain Sports 157)
Mount Kennedy, Second Ascent. On April 9 Michael Shor, Arthur Fitch and I were flown from our Mount King George Base Camp to about 8500 feet on Cathedral Glacier. We planned to follow the route taken by the first-ascent party a few weeks earlier. ...
Wyoming, Tetons, Symmetry Spire (1). On June 23, a party of five was making an ascent of Storm Point. They ascended the Symmetry Spire Couloir. As Mrs. Slansky (44) was traversing the upper end of the snowfield, she slipped and fell and slid down ...
Pichincha and Illiniza Norte. On August 6 Sallie Jordan, Charles Sproull, Arthur Wilder and the Ecuadorian Marta Carrera climbed Pichincha (15,718 feet). On August 12 Sproull, Wilder and I were stopped at 18,500 feet on Cotopaxi (19,350 feet) by a...
Dr. and Mrs. Visser, who returned to the Himalayas in 1929 for a two-year stay, have now come back with a notable record of exploration. Although they crossed the Zoji La early in the season they were able to use ponies for transport by traveling ...
Prospectors’ Mountain, East Face. The east and especially the north faces of this sedimentary-capped peak have considerable exposures of excellent crystalline rock. On August 28, Ted Vaill and John Thomas worked out what will undoubtedly prove to ...