The Muñeca, La Muñequita. This 5,000' peak, 30 miles west of the Potrero Chico, was previously unclimbed because of the vertical sandstone capstone (100' to 300', depending on which side). However, there are several good-looking cracks on every si...
Bhujang, First Ascent. When the main team of the Indian Siachen Glacier Expedition left for the Indira Col (see above), we descended to CIII to attempt a 6560-meter peak. From July 10 to 14, we established a Base Camp on the eastern bank of the ma...
Bhagirathi II. A 9-member Indian team led by Narayan Chandra Pramanik climbed Bhagirathi II. They set up two high camps. Prokash Kujur and high-altitude porters Rajendra Singh and Sher Singh from Lata reached the summit on August 8.Kamal K. Guha, ...
South Ridge of Teepe’s Pillar. Willi and Jolene Unsoeld and Norman Lee followed on August 10, 1957 the extreme southeast ridge of the triangular south face, using small ledges which overhang the face. The third lead, a very difficult pitch, was th...
The Brothers and The Sisters, Castle Dome Mountains. The Brothers and the Sisters are four separate summits forming a huge massif directly east of the end of the Castle Dome road northeast of Yuma. Jerry McCrea and I made the first ascent of all b...
Kuti Dorkush, First Ascent, Previously Unreported. The first ascent of Kuti Dorkush, attributed to a 1995 two-person Irish team via the Southwest Ridge, is now thought to have been first made in 1959 by two people who were part of a scientific exp...
Tyree, Shinn and the Vinson Massif. Mugs Stump made an impressive solo first ascent of the 8000-foot-high west face of Mount Tyree. He feels that it is “perhaps the hardest route yet accomplished by man.” This was the second ascent of Tyree. On th...
Sewing Machine Needle, Southern Canyonlands, Lake Powell. In May, dressed for the early desert summer, Fred Beckey, Reid Cunduff, Lou Dawson and I turned onto a dusty road between the bridges over the Dirt Devil and Colorado Rivers. Twenty-five ja...
Ala Daglar, Cimbar Valley, The Power of Silence, So It’s Life. Although climbing in Turkey has only recently come into vogue, the place is becoming well developed. Paolo Stoppini and I visited the Ala Daglar, where we put up two new routes in the ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE BELAY,INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn June 5, 1988, A1 Pelletier (44) took an eight meter leader fall and broke his neck on a 5.7 route near “Pine Tree Eliminate” at Cathedral Ledge. (So...
Human Adaptation. Amitabha Basu and Kailash C. Malhotra, editors. Indian Statistical Institute, Calcutta, 1984. 325 pages. Not priced.Twenty-five papers are collected here from an International Conference on Human Genetics and Adaptation held in 1...
Choquetira, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Nobumitsu Sakai and four members of Tohoku University Alpine Club reached Otaña village at the eastern foot of Panta through Yanama pass in mid-June, 1973. Ryozo Honkura and Yasutaka Kanamori on June 29 made the ...
WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, AMSOregon, Mount HoodOn June 9, Cassandra Kelley (38) was transported from the 3000 meter level on the south side of Mount Hood to Timberline Lodge. She was with a Mazama group, and was experiencing altitude sickness and hypo...
RAPPELLING ERROR – UNEVEN ROPES, HASTEColorado, Ouray Ice Park, New FrontierA climber rappelled off the end of his rope on February 17. He explained that he was in a rush. He set up an anchor, clipped the rope to the middle mark, threw the rope, s...
Peaks above the Kahiltna Glacier. After unsafe snow conditions prevented our carrying out our plans for climbs on Foraker and Hunter, Roger Robinson and I decided to do the 1200-foot north face of P 8060, which is immediately south of the southeas...
Joshua Tree National Monument—On October 30, 1954, Phillip Martin (17) and a companion joined a scheduled Sierra Club climb at Joshua Tree National Monument. They did not participate with the climbers nor climb under supervision, but climbed near ...
Lone Peak, Free Mexican Air Force. John Slezak and Cindy Ingraham did a new route on the Summit Wall they called Free Mexican Air Force (II 5.9 A2+). Their new route follows the west face of the arête, north of Left Thumb. It consists of four 150-...
Waddington Group, Coast Range. Several new routes were made in August from the Sierra Club climbing camp in the valleys south of Mount Waddington. An airdrop was placed on Whitetip Glacier near camp at Icefall Point. Good weather did not favor the...
Numri first ascent. Numri is south of Cho Polu and east of Chukung village. The 6,677m mountain was first climbed by a German team led by Olaf Rieck in November. The seven-member expedition established their base camp at 5,140m on the Imja Glacier...
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgPeaks above 6,500m; overview. The year 2010 proved extremely bleak for mountaineering tourism in Paki...