California, Mt. Darwin—On August 13, Mrs. Hunt (42), her husband, and son were descending Mt. Darwin in a storm consisting of thunder, hail, snow and rain. They had traversed the ridge and were descending a snow chute above the Darwin glacier to t...
FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow GlacierOn June 4, at 1130, Wendt Andreas (34) of the High Dreams expedition checked in at the 14,000 foot Ranger Camp. Andreas had frozen all his fingers on both hands. His companions Mario Bornsch...
Mount Russell’s East FaceCharles TownsendWE HAD SEEN THE PEAK both from Hunter and Foraker—it stood out like a shark’s fin on the horizon—and the Washburn photos in the rangers’ notebooks got us even more fired up. Mount Russell had been climbed t...
Ulamertorssuaq, Jacques Cousteau. It was reported that in 1997, Spanish climbers Miquel Angel Gallego, José Luis Clavel, José Matas and José Seiquer put up Jacques Cousteau (F6c A4, 1000m) on the left side of Ulamertorssuaq’s west summit. Further ...
Meru North and Shivling II. German Bahillo, Juan Carlos Bahillo, Simón Elias and I arrived at Base Camp at Tapovan at 4400 meters on September 4. Our first climb was a new route on the 1250-meter-high east face of Meru North (6450 meters, 21,162 f...
Aguja de la S. A Japanese solo climber made several unsuccessful attempts at climbing a new route on Aguja de la S’s west face in November, 1995. Further details are lacking.Cameron M. Burns
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face. After climbing the east ridge of Deborah, Carl Tobin and I hauled loads on top-heavy, overloaded sleds over a 9450-foot col and down onto the Susitna Glacier. We were able to dump half our loads on the lateral moraine ...
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. The Memphis Mountaineers had a productive year despite what seems to be a slow but steady reduction of available climbing spots. The 1992 membership consists of 63 members not only in Memphis, Tennessee, but throughout t...
Chomo Lonzo, North and Central Summits, first ascents. An eight-man French team of Stéphane Benoist, Yann Bonneville, Aymeric Clouet, Yannick Graziani, Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Chris- tophe Moulin (leader), Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon...
Chimborazo, Pico Nicolás Martínez. Of the four peaks of Chimborazo, its lowest (c. 5570 meters, 18,275 feet) is the most attractive and most difficult. It was named “Nicolás Martínez” after a great Ecuadorian pioneer of the early 1900s. In 1983, t...
Potash Road/Wall Street, Desert Spindrift. In the middle of September Nathan Martin and I climbed a new route that went to the rim overlooking Potash. Our route began with an existing route called Pinhead (5.10). We then continued up the prominent...
Tahoma Glacier Route, Mount Rainier. On June 8, 1958 an interesting variation of the Tahoma Glacier route was made by a group of Tacoma Mountaineers, Leroy Ritchie, Larry Heggerness, Allan Van Buskirk, Edward Drues, Bob Walton, Monte Haun, and Mar...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, BELAYER ERRORNorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Gumby's RoofRingo Willoughby (31) and a female friend were top-rope climbing in the Gumby’s Roof area on Crowders Mountain during the afternoon of Saturday April 21. ...
California, Mt. Shasta. On 9 October George Smith (28) and Henry Dodge (27) were descending the North Wintun Glacier on the east side of the summit of Mt. Shasta with Smith leading the descent. The party was unroped, but equipped with ice axes and...
Neacola Mountains, first full-length ski traverse. Next time you’re in Anchorage on a sunny evening, go downtown to Fourth Street and have a pint at Simon and Seafort’s Grill. As you hydrate, look through the picture windows across Cook Inlet. The...
Yutmaru Sar Attempt. Our expedition in the late summer found the southeast ridge of Yutmaru Sar objectively too dangerous and so we turned to a spur which led to the west ridge of Kanjut Sar, hoping to descend from there to the Kanjut-Yutmaru col....
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of James Merel, Yves Tedeschi, Jean Clauzier, Dr. Sylvie Romin, Jacques Maurin, Norbert Silvin and me as leader. Originally we had permission for the southwest buttress of Dhaulagiri but we changed i...
Bugaboos, various ascents. In addition to climbs reported above, several other new routes and variations were made. In July, Jonathan Copp and Jeff “Pouche” Hollenbaugh added a 600' direct start, called Where’s Isaac? (5.11d), to the Pretty Vacant...
Mount Russell, West Face. Steve Untch and I did a new route on the west face of Mount Russell (III, 5. 10d). We started about 20 feet right of the Rowell-Jones route and kept straight up for nine pitches. The short fourth pitch was 5.10a and the f...
Annapurna Dakshin, Winter Attempt, 1984-5. Three Japanese, led by Nobuaki Miyano, attempted Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South) by its west ridge. This first winter ascent did not succeed. They reached a high point of 6300 meters on January 6 and ...