FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew York, ShawangunksJohn Mallory was climbing Transcontinental Nailway (5.10) when he took a 30-foot fall. He had placed a #1 and #2 Friend for protection, but the force of the fall caused the posts—and consequently...
Brammah I, Second Ascent and Tragedy. The members of the expedidition were Paul Belcher, Duncan Nicholson, Jon Scott and me. We began the four-day walk from Kishtwar to Base Camp up a good path beside the Munab River and then branched off up the N...
El Dorado Peak, North Couloir. The north face of El Dorado Peak is a hazardous enigma. In October, Dan Cauthorn and I—carrying plenty of noodles and tuna packed in oil—emerged from the depths of the Cascade forest empire to investigate this hidden...
California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Owens. On 12 December Donald Gibson (19) and a companion were attempting to climb the east ridge of Mt. Owens (class 4). One had tried twice before and apparently had some knowledge of belaying. The victim refused a ...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 11, 1983, Carol Moyer (28) fell about 100 meters to her death from the fourth pitch of Tangerine Trip on El Capitan.According to her climbing partner, Raymond Kovac, she was cleaning the...
Nanda Ghunti. A 13-man expedition from Calcutta climbed Nanda Ghunti (6309 meters, 20,700 feet) on May 18 when Pranesh Charkra- borty, Sukhendu Mukherjee and Sherpas Lakpa and Dawa reached the summit to make the third ascent. Four members, Nemai B...
FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IshbelOn July 13, 1985, two climbers were descending moderate slopes on the northeast face of Mt. Ishbel. The terrain consists of scree slopes broken by short cliffs and slabs. The cl...
Jogin I and III. Our team was Shrikant Oka, Anil Kumar, Ashok Raj- derkar, Sanjay Borole, Suhas Risbud and I as leader. From Gangotri we went up the Kedar Ganga Gorge to Base Camp at 15,200 feet at Akhari Bhuj-Kedar Kharak. We set up Camps I, II a...
Incredible Hulk. Greg Donaldson closed his description of the west face of the Incredible Hulk with the sentence, “So the summit is still waiting along with a thousand other possibilities.” (A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, p 353.) Note that this is no longer ...
In April 2011 I returned for a second visit to the Johns Hopkins glacier basin in the southern part of the Fairweather Range. In 2009 Guy McKinnon and I had been the first climbers to access the main glacier and had made two ascents. This time Vau...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Roger Massardier, the leader of this French expedition, broke both his legs very early in the climb while on moraine just above Base Camp and so there were only three members with no climbing Sherpas attempting an uncli...
P 19,580, Patrasi Himal. The Anglo-Welsh Expedition consisted of Edwin Hammond, leader, Dewi Jones, John Cheesmond, John Vincent, Dr. Ieuan Jones and me as deputy leader. We were to make an attempt on the main peak of the Patrasi Himal (21,742 fee...
New Peaks in the Atuel Valley. My primary goal was to collect local lore in the mountain valleys of southern Mendoza but I did have a chance to enter a district unvisted by climbers near the sources of the Arroyos (creeks) Malo and Blanco and east...
Chogolisa from the Northwest and Broad Peak. Our group, Louis Deuber, Swiss, Richard Franzl and Harald Navé, Austrians, and my wife Alice Zebrowski and I, Germans, left Rawalpindi on May 16 and proceeded to Concordia on the Baltoro Glacier. For ou...
California—Mt. Shasta: On 28th November 1953 a party which included Edgar Werner Hopf (30) and eight companions left Horse Camp intending to climb Mt. Shasta. They left the cabin at about 4:20 a.m. in 10- minute intervals and agreed to meet at Lak...
Three Swiss, Simon Anthamatten, Urs Stocker and Reiner Treppte, made the third ascent to the summit of the ca 1,350m Spanish Route, Impossible Star (Juan Aldeguer, Sergio Martinez, Jose Moreno, and Juan Thomas; May 1984) on the west face of 6,454m...
Bhagirathi II. Spaniards Carlos Dávila and Adolfo García climbed Bhagi- rathi II by the east face, arriving at the summit (6512 meters, 21,364 feet) on September 13.
Tupilak East, New Route. It was reported that in September, 1997, Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowacz and eight others put up a 700-meter route on the south face of Tupilak East (2264m) in the Tasermiut Fjord area of east Greenland. The 22-pitch route was...
PROTECTION PULLED, OFF ROUTEAlberta, Ha Ling Peak (formerly known as Chinaman's Peak)On July 6, two climbers set out on the Northeast Ridge of Ha Ling Peak (5.6/ 5.7). The climbers got off route on the third or fourth pitch, and discovered by the ...
Chako, first ascent. A 10-member Kanagawa Alpine Federation party, led by Tatsumine Makino (62), made the first ascent of Chako (6,704m), via the southwest ridge. The team approached via Nar Gaon and Phu Gaon, making their base camp on July 9 at 5...