Odoray via the Northeast Ridge. The northeast ridge of Odoray is the steep righthand skyline of the mountain when viewed from the Canadian Alpine Club hut in the O’Hara Meadow. Don Morrison and I set out from the cabin about 6:00 A.M. on July 19, ...
Isaac, South Face, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion. Over the Memorial Day weekend, Jeff Lowe and I climbed the crack system which follows the east side of the south face of Isaac. Two dirty, bushy pitches marred the otherwise clean route. Descent wa...
P 11,920 (“The Nameless Pyramid”). In October, Richard Swayze and I approached this formation intent on repeating the original route on the east face. We knew that the normal route followed a very prominent crack several hundred feet to a huge hor...
Peak 6250m, Ascent. A British expedition led by Graham Boswell climbed an unnamed 6250- meter peak in August. This peak is situated toward the north of Chandra tal and is near point Tagne (5870m), which is marked on the map. The team turned east f...
Pumori Tragedy. An expedition of eight Americans and Australians hoped to make the winter ascent of Pumori by its southeast face. Australian George Curry fell and was killed on the first day of the attempt, December 28, when he was still only at 5...
Kumbhakarna East Attempt. To make the first ascent of the extremely steep east face of Kumbhakarna (Jannu) has been a Slovene project since 1991. This autumn’s three-man party was the fourth Slovene group to plan its ascent. But Dušan Debelak and ...
Whitney Portal Buttress, Sartoris. This route lies on Whitney Portal Buttress a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Callis route. It was climbed in August by Steve Eddy, Alan Bartlett and me, and starts in the only continuous left-facing crack-fl...
Mount Alverstone, West Buttress. It was reported that Bill Pilling and Carl Diedrich climbed the 6000-foot west buttress of Mount Alverstone in seven days of climbing, five on the ascent and two on the descent. Their route was 80 percent ice split...
California, Yosemite (4)—On June 9, 1956 an accident occurred on the lower part of the Royal Arches on a pitch known as the “Bear Hug,” an open, high-angle chimney that is climbed mainly by friction holds. The party was on a standard and frequentl...
Tirsuli West Attempt. Roger Payne and Julie Ann Clyma attempted this last 7000-meter virgin peak (7035 meters) in the Kumaon via the west ridge, reaching 6300 meters on June 12. They traversed two ridges to reach the west ridge. The route ahead wa...
New Zealand Expedition to Mount Everest. There were eight members of the New Zealand Everest Expedition: Keith Woodford, leader, Robert Cunningham, deputy leader, Michael Andrews, Richard Price, Fr. Michael Mahoney, Michael Brown, Nicolas Banks an...
Pico Los Portones and Púlpito Negro, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. The most impressive mountain in this range, Pico Los Portones (also called Picacho and San Pablín Norte), had been ascended for the first and only time in 1959 by two Cambridge Universit...
The Mountaineers of Seattle are planning to hold their twenty- fifth annual outing in Mount Garibaldi Park, British Columbia, July 26 to August 10, 1931. A permanent camp will be established in Black Tusk Meadows. This region of great interest was...
Veiled Peak, South Ridge. The belief that the small Veiled Peak held no interesting unclimbed routes was shattered by the ascent of the South ridge by William Buckingham and Margaret Pevear on August 17. This distinct ridge was approached from the...
Lhakpari, First Ski Descent. An expedition guided by Andy Broom (Out There Trekking) reached the summit at 11 a.m., September 22, via the west ridge. All skiing was randonée except Philip Ponder, who made the trip on a telemark system with three-p...
FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew York, ShawangunksJohn Mallory was climbing Transcontinental Nailway (5.10) when he took a 30-foot fall. He had placed a #1 and #2 Friend for protection, but the force of the fall caused the posts—and consequently...
Brammah I, Second Ascent and Tragedy. The members of the expedidition were Paul Belcher, Duncan Nicholson, Jon Scott and me. We began the four-day walk from Kishtwar to Base Camp up a good path beside the Munab River and then branched off up the N...
El Dorado Peak, North Couloir. The north face of El Dorado Peak is a hazardous enigma. In October, Dan Cauthorn and I—carrying plenty of noodles and tuna packed in oil—emerged from the depths of the Cascade forest empire to investigate this hidden...
California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Owens. On 12 December Donald Gibson (19) and a companion were attempting to climb the east ridge of Mt. Owens (class 4). One had tried twice before and apparently had some knowledge of belaying. The victim refused a ...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 11, 1983, Carol Moyer (28) fell about 100 meters to her death from the fourth pitch of Tangerine Trip on El Capitan.According to her climbing partner, Raymond Kovac, she was cleaning the...