FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION CAME OUT, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Linville Gorge, North Carolina WallOn September 8, Colin Treiber, (20), and his partner were climbing Bumblebee Buttress (5.8), located on the North Carolina Wall in the Linville Gorge ...
Handbook on Ski-Touring and Glacier Ski-ing. Ski Club of Great Britain and the Alpine Ski Club. Second edition completely revised, 1961. 97 pages. Price 4s6d.The two British clubs responsible for this useful, compact, well organized book have rend...
Kutshkulin Sar, Ascent. In August, a six-man international team visited the Karambar Glacier region of northern Pakistan. We were entirely self-funded. The Karambar Glacier lays at the northern limit of the Ishkoman Valley with the surrounding mou...
New Ascents in the Cashmere Crags. Of a number of new climbs on the Nightmare Needles in the Cashmere Crags, the first of the 1950 season was the ascent of Cynical Pinnacle by J. Hieb, W. Fix, J. Schwabland and F. Beckey. An open chimney on the N....
Central Staunings Alps, various first ascents. Laubie Laubscher, Mark Litterick, Ken Moore, Stephen O'Sullivan, Heike Puchan-Whitworth, Brian Shackleton, Brian Whitworth, and I comprised the Scottish Mountaineering Club expedition to Scoresby Land...
INADEQUATE BELAY ANCHOR, POOR POSITION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, SeattleOn a field trip to Camp Long in Seattle, a Seattle Mountaineers climbing class was using the belay towers when the following occurred on February 22, 1985.It was the end...
Chearoco Valley. During five weeks in the summer of 2001 a British female team comprising Adele Pennington, Catrin Thomas, Nancy Brooks, and I enjoyed a successful expedition to this remote and underdeveloped region. Although the trip was hampered...
The Iowa Mountaineers are continuing their safety program with demonstrations given on local trips similar to those held by the Chicago Mountaineers. There has been close liaison between these two organizations. The Iowa group, with a membership o...
Washington, Peshastin Pinnacles. On 28 June Jim Nieland and Gerald Calbaum (32) were climbing Peshastin Pinnacles. Jim Nieland led the direct west face of Dinosaur Tower. He reached the upper ledge where he belayed Calbaum. The latter clipped into...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED California, Mount ShastaOn Saturday, October 10, 1987, Mike Zamzow (22), Steve Jenevein (18), and I (30) set out to climb Mount Shasta via the Hotlum–Bolam Glacier route. We got a late start, not actu...
PHOTOGRAPHS of unclimbed Kate’s Needle (10,002 ft.) and Devil’s Thumb (9077 ft.) led me to plan, for my first postwar opportunity, a trip to the icy wilderness W. of the Stikine River. Although they do not rise so high as the great mountains farth...
Chumpe (Jatunriti) traverse, Colquecruz 1 attempt (Alcamarinayoc). Intrigued by the scarcity of information despite extensive research, Amy Bullard and I spent three weeks exploring and climbing in the northern Cordillera Vilcanota from April 21 t...
Mount Logan, Altitude, Ascents, Attempts. Using GPS equipment, a joint Royal Canadian Geographical Society, Geological Survey of Canada and Canadian Parks Service determined that Mount Logan is 5959 meters or 19,545 feet tall. The 1992 climbing se...
P c21,325, Kanjiroba Himal. The Shigakukai Osaka Alpine Club expedition was led by Kazuyuki Abe, accompanied by three others. On October 25 from Camp III at 18,375 feet Koji Mizutani and Shoji Miyoshi climbed to the summit of P c21,325, which lies...
McKinley, 1981 Michael KennedyThin MIST veiled the weak sun; another gust of wind-driven snow swept the rocks above as I zipped up my pants and returned to the tent. Another brew, a bit of cheese, a few crackers; more time to think, to brood, more...
With special thanks to David Harrah for his help in compiling this year's sectionJOSEPH STETTNER1901 - 1997With the passing of Joe Stettner at age 95 on March 14, we must acknowledge the loss of one of the most remarkable figures in American mount...
FALL ON ROCK – MISJUDGED PENDULUMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanAt 0545 on July 18, Eric Ruderman (32) and Skiy DeTray (31) started a one- day ascent of the Nose on El Capitan (31 pitches, VI5.9 C1, per SuperTopo). They were a strong team ...
Saser Kangri Attempt. Our Franco-Indian expedition jointly led by K.C. Mehra and me was never really able to make an attempt on Saser Kangri. The reason doubtless was the undeclared war in the Siachen region between India and Pakistan. We French w...
More About Mountain MysticismHoward PalmerTHE topic “Mountaineering and Mysticism” which has lately received attention from literary climbers in books and shorter papers, is a tempting one. Almost everybody who has climbed at all harbors ideas of ...
This Climbing Game: An Anthology of Mountain Humour. Walt Unsworth, compiler. Drawings by Ivan Cumberpatch. Viking, Harmondsworth, 1984. 220 pages. £9.95.Drawing upon guidebooks, factual accounts, and fantasy, Walt Unsworth has assembled some fift...