Scientific Programs on the Wyoming Everest Expedition. Expedition members participated in valuable scientific programs including atmospheric chemistry sampling; geological research pertaining to the uplift history of the Everest region; demonstrat...
On June 26, 1974, Blair Mitten (21), an experienced climber who was a student in the Assistant Guides Course sponsored by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, was leading a mixed class 5 and easier pitch on the south side of Mt. Victoria. ...
SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount DeltaformOn August 21, 1993, K.V. and R.P. were doing the traverse of the Ten Peaks from west to east. While descending the east ridge of Mount Deltaform (3425 meters) unroped, K.V. slipped on a...
New Peaks for 2002. The Government of Nepal officially announced the opening of 103 additional peaks to foreign expeditions. The announcement came on Christmas Eve 2001 and took effect from March 1, 2002. Unlike the 10 peaks brought on to the list...
Gasherbrum I. Our expedition was composed of Kim Byong-Man, Song Yul-Heoun, Ryu Sung-tae, Yoon Sang-Ho, Park Hyeok-Sang, Cha Yong-Suk, Lee Suk-Gyu, Yoon Suk-Min, Park Myun-Gu, Ju Chung-Ick and me as leader. From June 4 to 30, the weather was good ...
Bhagirathi enchainment attempt. Americans Jonathan Copp and Dylan Taylor were attempting the ambitious project of an enchainment from Bhagirathi III (6,454m) to Bhagirathi II (6,512m) over the smaller unclimbed summit of Bhagirathi IV. They planne...
In This Short Span: A Mountaineering Memoir, by Michael Ward. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd, 1972. 304 pages, 40 photographs, 5 maps. £3.75 (about $9.00)By his own account Michael Ward was the first British climber seriously to advocate an approach ...
P 6193 Attempt. In late August, a Slovene expedition attempted the west face of shapely P 6193 (20,320 feet), which lies above the Gangotri Glacier southeast of Bhagirathi II. Janez Kešnar, leader, and Marjan Kovac reached 6000 meters but bad weat...
KERMITH F. ROSS 1910-1986Kermith Ross, known to some friends as “Lefty”, died of cancer on December 23 in Denver. He began climbing about 1948, in Colorado, and also climbed extensively in Wyoming and California. He participated in expeditions to ...
Slesse Mountain, East Face. Slesse Mountain (8,002') is a dark fang of granodiorite standing in a spectacular alpine environment. Dave Edgar and I were privileged to make the first ascent of the awesome east face in July, 1997. The route (VI 5.9+ ...
Lupghar Sar East Attempt and Ascents of Dut Sar and Chikkorin Sar, 1993. Piercarlo Poletti, his wife Daniela Vanzini, Dino Cazzaniga, Riccardo Verderio, Claudio Ghezzi and I as leader hoped to climb virgin Lupghar Sar East (c. 7200 meters, 23,622 ...
P 11,300, West Face, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. From May 6 to 9, John Bauman and I climbed the 3600-foot-high west face of P 11,300. The most prominent feature of the route is a 900-foot-long, 12-foot-wide couloir of 65° to 75°, which has several ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot. On July 16, John Reisinger (25) and Gary Smith (18) had completed an ascent on Mt. Teewinot and were descending, unroped, via a snow-filled couloir. Reisinger began to slide out of control and before h...
Paine Towers, North Tower and Attempt on the Central Tower, 1984. In January and February, 1984, the Club Alpino Italiano, Chilean Section, climbed in the Paine Towers. On January 28 Ms. Claude Batres and Karl Huber climbed Paine Chico or Almirant...
Ruth Gorge, Mt. Dickey, south pillar, Crime of the Century; and Mt. Bradley, northeast spur, Welcome to Alaska. Our group flew to Ruth Gorge on May 4 with Doug Geeting Aviation (they were impressed by the amount of food we took!). We were nine mem...
North Palisade, Putterman Couloir. On July 2, Cameron Bums and I ascended what we believe to be a previously unclimbed couloir on the west side of North Palisade. On this face are three distinctive white cliffs. The original west-side route, first...
El Gigante, La Conjura de los Necios, second ascent. In May Slovenians Tanja Grmovsek (formerly Tanja Rojs) and Andrej Grmovsek took a prehoneymoon trip to El Gigante, where they repeated the 2001 German route, La Conjura de los Necios (The Conspi...
Broad Peak Attempt. After reaching Base Camp at 4850 meters on August 4, we had five days of snowfall. From August 10 to 14 we ferried supplies to 6000 meters and kept on to the summit ridge at 7950 meters, about 100 meters from the top before the...
Gurla Mandhata. A Viennese student, Herbert Tichy, disguised as an Indian pilgrim with two Indian friends and Kitar, a porter of the last Nanga Parbat expedition, made a trip to the holy mountain, Kailas, and attempted the climb of Gurla Mandhata ...
Cerro de la Aguada, ascent and historical note. A group of Argentinean climbers of the Club Andino Mar del Plata and Janajman (Salta) ascended this 5,810m volcano that is near the massive Antofalla (6,409m). The ascent commemorated the 100th anniv...