In August 2001 an Appalachian State student named Chris and I climbed a new 800' variation to the High Route on the Enclosure. It parallels the High Route on the right and goes at IV 5.10+R/X.In October 2001 Bob Webster and I made the first ascent...
On May 9, Russel Mitrovich, Mike Libecki, and Josh Helling arrived in the small village of Clyde River, Baffin Island. The next day was spent traveling 60 miles across the frozen Arctic Ocean on snowmobile. The highly inspired expedition team pu...
Mount Winstone, North Face, British Columbia Coast Range, 1986. In August 1986 Gary Silver and I approached via Taseko Lakes. The climb began at the same place as the Pilling-Gerson climb of 1983 but bears directly up steep snow and ice toward the...
FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, FATIGUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Stanley PeakOn July 23, 1983, three climbers were unable to make the summit of Stanley Peak via a route on the north face and turned back around noon. During the descent of a gully on the l...
Jaonli Tragedy. A five-woman expedition from Tokyo was overwhelmed by an avalanche on September 23. The leader Yoko Kominami, Yoko Tajime, Reiko Kato and an Indian porter died.
Central Pillar of Ulamertorssuaq, What’s Bred in the Bone. Jia Condon and Rich Prohaska spent a total of 13 nights on the central pillar of Ulamertorssuaq in July. This wall is located to the right of the well-known west face which sports the all-...
Cho Oyu. Reinhold Messner, Michl Dacher and Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) on May 5. This was one of the fastest ascents of an 8000er ever and surely the fastest from the capital city to the summit. They...
Watkins Mountains, first ascents from the Fleece Glacier. Toward the end of May a British expedition comprising Jim Hall, Bob Kerr, Ros Murray and Rae Pritchard was landed on the Wooley Glacier at 2,400m and from here explored a previously unnamed...
Africa, Far-Flung Explorations. Briton Tony Howard, who, with his partner, Di Taylor, has been exploring north Africa and the Middle East from a climber’s perspective since the 1960s, shares some of his tales and insights in an article that appear...
Cho Oyu, West-Southwest Ridge Attempt. Our team was composed of Bill Roos, Wally Berg, Frank Coffey, Dr. Chuck Coffey, Alan Roberts, Ted Keresote, Rob Gustke, Scott Thorburn, Brad Udall and me as leader. Our approach march started from Jiri on Sep...
Kichatna Spires. During the month of July a group of Alaska climbers, Clancy Crawford, Charlie Hostetler, Paul Denkewalter, Peter Sennhauser and I, climbed, skied and explored a small portion of the Cathedral Spires. A1 Curtis flew us under the cl...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Hooman Aprin, Les Ellison, Evelyn Lees and me as leader. After a few days’ delay in Rawalpindi because our liaison officer had not arrived, we were granted permission to leave without ...
Südtirol, by J. G. Oberkofler. 157 pages of full-page photographs by Hugo Atzwanger, with interspersed sections of text. Innsbruck-Vienna: Tyrolia-Verlag, 1950. Price, $3.00.South Tyrol has many names, among them The Land of Mountains and Glaciers...
Peineta, 1990. On page 201 of AAJ, 1991, a report appears of the ascent of a peak in the Paine group, the location of which was not known to us. The mountain lies a kilometer to the northeast of the Torre Norte del Paine and is connected to it by ...
Colón, Bolívar, El Guardián and Loma Cebolleta, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Peter Devine, David Mainer and I, of a mountain climbing and spider collecting expedition of five, climbed Pico Colón (18,947 feet), and Pico Bolívar (18,943 feet) on Ja...
Wyoming—Wind River Range (1): Miss Maltby was one of a number of AMC members attending their summer outing in the Wind River Range. A sizeable party including the leaders of the outing ascended Dinwoody Peak on Sunday, August 18, 1952. In descendi...
Cordillera Blanca. In 1993, the apparent return of political stability and less activity by the Sendero Luminoso resulted in a new interest on the part of foreign climbers in climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. The weather was less normal with more...
Umanak District, West Greenland. In June, July and August the late Piero Ghiglione led a small Italian expedition which explored the region between 71° and 73° north latitude on the west coast of Greenland. These mountains were relatively unexplor...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1957 our organization sponsored 14 local outings, which averaged about 40 people on each occasion. On non-sponsored weekends numerous groups climbed in the various local areas. Several members climbed in the Alp...
British Columbia, Mount Assiniboine. On July 25th Andrew Killick (age 25) had successfully soloed Mt. Assiniboine and was descending the long snow chute at the base of the north face. The weather was overcast with temperatures in the 50’s. Killick...