Saltoro Kangri. The Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto, Kyoto University, sent an expedition under the leadership of Dr. Tsunahiko Shidei to join the Korakoram Club of Pakistan. Taian Kato, Dr. Kazuhiko Hayashi, Dr. Atsuo Saito, Kazumasa Hirai, Yatuka ...
Yosemite Valley, various activity. The big news in the Valley this year, once again, was the freeing of big wall routes, specifically on El Capitan. While this activity has become more popular, the usual suspects remain at the forefront. Yuji Hira...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, ALTITUDE SICKNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyNicholas Collins (age unknown) was a member of the three-man British McKinley expedition on the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. On April 3, 1981, the group was flown int...
The Mazamas of Portland have decided to conduct their 1931 outing into the Wallowa Mountain country, a beautiful and rugged region, from July 18th to August 2nd.
Shadow Peak, South Face. Seldom climbed even from the usual Garnet Canyon approach, Shadow Peak had never been ascended from Avalanche Canyon until this climb by Ted Vaill and Hank Janes on September 3. A long couloir led to a shallow cave at the ...
Cerro Piergiorgio, Esperando La Cumbre, and Other Activity. Maurizio Giordani and I made the first ascent of the northwest spur of Piergiorgio (east summit) via Esperando La Cumbre (VI+ Al, 850m), which included couloir ice up to 75° (WI4) and mix...
Cho Oyu, Various Ascents in the Post-Monsoon. Thirteen teams attempted Cho Oyu, and all were successful via the Standard Route from the west side in Tibet. Most of them were commercially organized. A total of 75 men and two women summitted from Se...
American Alpine Club Research FundGLACIERS OF THE GANNETT-FREMONT PEAK AREA, WYOMINGMark F. MeierIT was the author’s privilege to spend the summer of 1950 studying the glaciers of the higher regions of the Wind River Mountains. This study was made...
Mounts Triumph and Despair, Winter Ascents. The winter of 1986 was an unpredictable one in the Cascades. During the last two weeks of February, six feet of new snow were followed by torrential rains and spring-like clearing. On March 1, Mark Bebie...
Kamet, 1979. Kamet (25,447 feet, 7756 meters) was climbed by a new route from southeast of Meade’s Col on June 5, 1979 by Captain R. Yadav, Inder Singh, Amar Singh, Ajaib Singh, Dalchand, Bhuraram and Sangh Singh and on June 7 by Major Pratap Sing...
Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose; Mt. Church, Amazing Grace. After climbing the fantastic ice line of Shaken Not Stirred (2,200', V AI5) on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth, James Clapham and I returned to the unclimbed 5,000' east face ...
The Centennial Festival of the Matterhorn was celebrated at Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia from July 11 to 18. After one hundred years it was possible to recapture some of the noble obsession and that which was admirable in those men who dared attemp...
Kristian Gletscher Area, Schweizerland, East Greenland. In June, an international expedition left for East Greenland. It was composed of ten Italians: Antonio Colli, Mauro Corona, Maurizio Dall’Omo, Luciano De Crignis, Fabio Delisi, Lino Di Lenard...
For a variety of reasons, 2003 was not as busy as 2002. Some of the activists were elsewhere, otherwise occupied, or injured. Fires burning throughout the backcountry from July through September also curtailed activity. Nonetheless, it was a fairl...
SLIP ON SNOW-TWICE, NO BELAYWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranOn July 3, the Jones party signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station as two separate groups of four to climb the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran. On July 4, they sta...
The Editor,American Alpine Journal.Dear Sir:Believing it to be the policy of the American Alpine Journal to seek for accuracy in all matters concerning the mountains, I am enclosing a short article touching on the Cariboo Range, and trust that you...
Dankova Group, Various Ascents. It was reported that a 1996 expedition to the eastern end of the West Kokshaal-Tau resulted in the first non-C.I.S. climbers to enter the range, which is the southernmost range of the Tien Shan mountains and lies on...
Cordillera Yauyos. A group of six Californians climbed during June and July, 1966 in the Cordillera Yauyos, a region visited in 1963 by a Spanish Expedition. (See A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, pp. 209-210.) They approached from the north via the road throug...
At 7 a.m. on August 19, after a heinous two-hour approach, Bruce Kay (Squamish, B.C.) and I racked up at the toe of the steep pillar on the right side of Mt. MacDonald’s l,000m-high north face, for our first adventure together. We were surprised...
GeographicalDistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-82DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber ofAccidents1983DeathsTotal Persons - InvolvedCanadaAlbertaBritish ColumbiaYukon TerritoryOntarioQuebecEast ArcticWest ArcticPractice CliffsUnited StatesAlaska1636253...