SLEEP was fading away with the help of hot coffee, and once again I became aware of the glacier stretching away from my tent door. Somewhere down that glacier the drone of an airplane rose and fell, steadily coming closer. By the time I stumbled...
Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, Pik Sally; Pik 4,705m, attempt. In August David Jorden, Chris Lloyd, Tom Sutherland, Ben Sutton, and I traveled to ...
JOHN DALE MENDENHALL1911-1983John Mendenhall died in Seattle July 30, 1983, three weeks after suffering a stroke. John, his wife Ruth, and other family members were vacationing in the Tetons when John was stricken on the night before a planned cli...
Andes, Peru, Yanauccha and Huaytapayana Ranges. Richard Kimball, my wife, Alice, and I spent the second week of August, 1953, climbing and exploring the Yanauccha and Huaytapayana ranges of central Peru. We drove our equipment and food to Huancayo...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...
Kedarnath South Face Attempt. James Garrett, David Pollari, Mel Brown and I spent the month of September envisioning a new route on the south face of Kedarnath to the western crest of the massif. We established Base Camp behind the southern latera...
Du Kenya au Kilimanjaro, by Roland Truffaut. 251 pages, 2 maps, 2 sketches, 16 pages illustrations. Paris: Rene Julliard, 1953. Price bound, Fr. Fcs. 1090.This little book is the story of the small French expedition of 1952, which visited Africa a...
From Everest to the South Pole, by George Lowe. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1961. viii + 216 pages, with 6 maps and plans; 32 pages of photographs. Price $4.50. First published in England under the title Because It Is There. London: Cassell and ...
"Pick an objective that you feel will contribute something to the development of American climbing, gather the strongest group of technical climbers available to do the job and the AAC will back the venture.” This was the invitation offered me by ...
FALLS ON ROCK (12), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), DISLOCATIONS (4), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (3), INADEQUATE BELAY, RAPPEL ERROR, FALLING OBJECT, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITY, STRAINED GROINNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksEighteen reports were sub...
Le Terrain de Jeu de l’Europe, by Leslie Stephen, translated by Claire-Eliane Engel. 8 vo., wrappers, 268 pages, with two illustrations. Paris: Victor Attinger, 1935. Price, Fr. 6.50; bound, Fr. 9.50.Under the inclusive title of “Montagne” this is...
The Kenai Peninsula, AlaskaJ. Vincent HoemanIf the Aleutians are the jaunty beard of the craggy Alaska headland, then the Kenai Peninsula must be the prominent Adam’s apple, though it is shaped more like a reptilian head itself. Perhaps one day sl...
AVALANCHE, EUPHORIA FROM GOOD WEATHER AND PERFECT BACKCOUNTRY SKIING, NOT HEEDING INDICATIONS OF INSTABILITY, PARTY SEPARATEDColorado, San Juan MountainsFour of us from New England were skiing powder gullies and open trees below peak 12,311 in th...
On July 16, a male climber (22) fell as he descended from the top anchors on the sport route Plate Tectonics (5.9). After cleaning the top anchors, he descended on a double-rope rappel. Unfortunately, one end of his rope did not reach the ground. ...
Mount Columbia from the NorthCHRISTOPHER A. G. J ONESThis spring Toni Hiebeler was in Yosemite Valley with Fritz Wiessner, and knowing that an Alpinismus article on North American climbing would result, I was interested to hear what areas Hiebeler...
The Endless Summer ExpeditionA quest to lose oneself between Alaska and Antarctica.Alun HubbardIn 1999 Dave Hildes and I scraped our pennies together and bought a 47-foot steel ketch called Gambo, which, over the next four years—with the help of a...
Gasherbrum II and III. To mark the International Women’s Year the Polish Ladies Expedition was organized under the leadership of Mrs. Wanda Rutkiewicz. For safety reasons, a men’s team was added to the expedition with separate objectives. The foll...
Gangotri, Meru South, northeast face direct. At 4:30 p.m. on July 13 the sky finally opened for three Korean climbers standing at the top of the northeast face of Meru Peak (6,660m).Three instructors from the Extreme Riders Alpine Club, Kim Sejun ...
Hayes Group. Hayes, Deborah and Hess have received a good deal of attention in the past, but several unclimbed 12,000ers and many fine smaller peaks attracted Larry Muir, Tom Knott, my wife and myself to these mountains. Our approach was from Blac...
FALL ON ROCK AND FALLING OBJECT—LITTER California, TahquitzI went to Tahquitz on Sunday 12 June, ostensibly to help a friend practice aid climbing, but in reality to try to dissuade him from attempting the Regular Route of Half Dome as his first-e...