Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Leo Pargil

Leo Pargil. An expedition of the Indian Dogra Regimental Centre on June 15 reached the summit of Leo Pargil (6791 meters, 22,280 feet). Reaching the top were Captain Haripal Singh, leader, Havildar Khem Singh, Lance Naik Lalit, Captains Govil and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Agdlerssakasit, East Face, First Ascent and Tragedy

Agdlerssakasit, East Face, First Ascent and Tragedy. At the beginning of August, British climbers Ben Bransby, Matt Dickinson, Gareth Parry, and Ian Parnell made the first ascent of the 1347-meter east face of Agdlerssakasit (1763m) in the Torssuk...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu, South Face Attempt

Cho Oyu, South Face Attempt. Six Italians led by Toni Klingendrath failed to climb the south face of Cho Oyu. Two members reached 21,325 feet on October 6 and another two the same point on October 12. They gave up the climb on October 20 after con...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ngojumba Kang Winter Ascent, 1988

Ngojumba Kang Winter Ascent, 1988. Under the leadership of Chung Jin-Yang, South Koreans Yu Wang-Yul and Choi Mi-Ho made the third ascent and the first winter ascent of Ngojumba Kang on February 11, 1988. They had hoped to continue on along the ea...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Toshe Peak

Toshe Peak. A German expedition led by Bernd Neubauer climbed Toshe Peak (6600 meters, 21,654 feet) in the late summer. Details are missing.


Book Reviews AAJ
Aus den Sextener Dolomiten

Aus den Sextener Dolomiten, by Otto Langl. 191 pages, with 23 photographic illustrations. Vienna: Verlag der Oesterreichischen Bergsteiger-Zeitung, 1951. Price, $2.00.The author is a distinguished Austrian climber, whose first and last love for ha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Sea Kayaking and Climbing in Chilean Patagonia

Sea Kayaking and Climbing in Chilean Patagonia. Rick Ridgeway describes this in a full article earlier in this Journal.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Oxford University Explorartion Club Expedition

Oxford University Exploration Club Expedition. P. J. Grubb, leader, M. R. Emerson, Dr. R. H. Johnson, J. R. Lloyd, T. R. Pennington, and T. C. Whitmore visited Mount Antisana (18,886 feet) and the foothills east of it from early July to mid-Octobe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, MT. Chung Sang, Probable First Ascent

Mt. Chung Sang, Probable First Ascent. On September 2, Geoff Hornby, Susie Sammut and Simon Hall made the probable first ascent of Mt. Chung Sang (5800m) via the southwest ridge. The climb was made in a short day from a camp at 5200 meters above t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Rock Tower near South Face of Kedarnath

Rock Tower near South Face of Kedarnath. Stefano Righetti, leader, Gian Carlo Grassi and I hoped to ascend the unclimbed 6000-meter rock tower near the south face of Kedarnath. Our Base Camp was at 4000 meters a few walking hours above Kedarnath v...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Condoriri, Huayna Potosí, Huacaña and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, Sajama, and Parinacota (Chile)

Condoriri, Huayna Potosí, Huacaña and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, Sajama, and Parinacota (Chile). Our Bayerische Naturfreunde (Bavarian Friends of Nature) expedition was composed of Theo Dowbenka, Alois Wolfram, Peter Rotter, Heinrich Handel, Jo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Attempt on Mount St. Elias

Attempt on Mount St. Elias. On June 15 Alan Batten, John Bryant, Mike Coffine, Jim Gregg, Rick Potrello and I of the Colorado State University St. Elias Expedition landed on the west side of Mount St. Elias at 7500 feet. Our proposed route was the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, P 6455, Palchung Hamga Himal

P 6455, Palchung Hamga Himal. We had received permission to climb Kanjiroba by its northern side. However, because of the difficulty of the approach up the Langu Khola, this proved to be impossible. Instead, Dr. Fritz Mross, Dr. Helga and Helmut S...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Pingora, North Face

Pingora, North Face. Accompanied by Aaron Schneider, on August 14 Ed Speth and I returned to the north face of Pingora (11,884 feet), a climb we had been forced off in 1963 by bad weather. From Lonesome Lake we hiked up the talus and tumbling cree...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, New Hampshire, Cannon Cliff

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffOn October 14, 1994, while ascending the talus slope below Cannon Cliff, a large section of rock (est. 100 feet across) fell off the cliff high above us. The rock broke up as it fell and swept do...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Corrections

Corrections. The ascent of M5 (20,900 feet) in central Lahul as reported in the A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, p. 471 was in fact a second ascent, the first having been made a month earlier on July 24, 1964 by climbers from the Himalayan Mountaineering Insti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Sanford Tragedy

Mount Sanford Tragedy. A 4-man Japanese expedition from Hokkaido University climbed Sanford by the normal route. While descending from the summit on June 24 Tokio Momono and Shigeru Senda were caught by a blizzard. Momono died during the second ni...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Jordan Peak Area

Jordan Peak Area. In late spring 1981, Eddie Joe and I discovered and climbed the first routes on a triple rock formation on the south side of Jordan Peak, just north of Camp Nelson. In the following month, Eddie, Randy Jewitt, Patrick Paul, Gary ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite, King Tut's Tomb

King Tut’s Tomb. In May, Mike Covington and I climbed a new five- pitch route one-half mile west of Sentinel Rock on the south side of Yosemite Valley. The route ascends a 400-foot buttress which is capped by a spectacular roof. It is within 100 y...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, A Further Note on Rondoy, Cordillera Huayhuash

A further note on Rondoy, Cordillera Huayhuash. The footnote on page 259 of the AAJ 1962, 13:1 has been confirmed. Ronday has two independent peaks joined by a ridge about a quarter of a mile long. The Italians climbed the north peak, which is abo...