Apolobamba Area, Various Ascents. The first team out during the 1997 season was the Walsall expedition of Dean Wiggin, Eamonn Flood and Yossi Brain (U.K.), who climbed in the Katantica group north of the Pelechuco Valley. The torture of the 18-hou...
Americans on Everest. The official account of the ascent led by Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. By James Ramsey Ullman and Other Members of the Expedition. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1964. 429 pages, with a glossary. 67 photographs in...
Austrian HolidaySoft laughter rings above the crusted snow, Light footsteps hurry past.—A. C. Benson.1.AS I look from the hotel window at Kufstein, I am delighted by the prospect. Below me on a terrace tables have been placed, shaded by gay umbrel...
The Sacred HimalayaJohan ReinhardHIMALAYAN EXPEDITION accounts often mention a fascination with the local people and their culture. Many climbers have felt that their experiences going to and from the mountains were more meaningful than those on t...
Alpine Lakes Region. We enjoyed twelve days of exploring the Alpine Lakes region. Our approach was from Elk Heart Park through Bald Mountain Basin. Instead of using Angel Pass, we climbed northwest from the basin up a canyon and crossed the divide...
Ketil, West Face. Jon Allen, Doug Byerly, Jim Funsten and Mike Wood visited the spectacular granite climbing mecca of Greenland’s southern fjord country in July. European climbers have climbed fairly extensively in the region in the past 20 years ...
Annapurna IV. A South Korean expedition was led by Chun Byung- Koo. Climbing the northwest ridge of Annapurna IV (24,688 feet), on April 23 Dong Ok-Yu, Sirdar Pasang Norbu Sherpa and Pemba Sherpa climbed to the summit from Camp IV at 21,650 feet.M...
Tennyson and the Mountain-MaidDavid Allan Robertson, Jr.To praise the “small Sweet Idyl” in Book VII of Tennyson’s Princess has been natural and customary for these last hundred years. It is evidently most uncommon, on the other hand, to venture ...
High-Altitude Pulmonary and Cerebral EdemaCHARLES S. HOUSTON, M.D."In the next few hours his breathing became progressively more congested and labored. He sounded as though he were literally drowning in his own fluid, with an almost bubbling sound...
Kulu. An Army Mountaineering Association party in Kulu was beset by last-minute political difficulties, which are becoming a sad but familiar feature of climbing in India. As a result we had to reduce the size of the party and change objectives fr...
Tetons, Wyoming: (3) Middle Teton. On 21 July 1948 a party of five from the Chicago Mountaineering Club, led by Paul Stettner and including also Mary Casebeer, John Farr, William Primak and Arthur Tielsch, left Garnet Canyon on their first day of ...
FALL ON ICE, ANCHOR AND CARABINER PROBABLY FAILEDPennsylvania, Kitnersville, The Main FlowAbout noon on December 27, JW (43) and BA (36) started on an ice climb popularly know as “The Banana” (WI4) but more correctly called “The Main Flow” in Kitn...
University Peak, South Face; Barnard Glacier, ascents and ski descents. On April 1 Paul Claus dropped Bob Kingsley, Lance McDonald, John Whedon, and me at 7,000 feet, below the south face of University Peak. We had come to the St. Elias Range to a...
Carstenz North Face, Dugundugoo North Face, Ngga Pulu, Irian Jaya (New Guinea). Irian Jaya is under Indonesian military-police control and so Hilary Collins and I first had to obtain a travel permit. We spent two weeks following a hazardous trail ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE and FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierThis report tells of two accidents which occurred within the same climbing party at 3300 meters on their descent of Mount Rainier.A part...
MARJORIE HURD 1886-1977 It was on a train to the White Mountains for a rock-climbing week end at Pinkham Notch some fifty years ago that I first got to know and appreciate Marjorie Hurd’s interest in climbing, white-water canoeing and other outdo...
Vocation Alpine, by Armand Charlet. 206 pages, with 13 illustrations and a preface by Dr. Azéma. Neuchâtel and Paris: VictorAttinger, 1949. Price, 450 francs.Armand Charlet will go down in mountaineering history as the most brilliant guide the val...
North Howser Tower, The Real Mescalito. In August, Crosby Johnston and I connected in the East Creek Basin. My schedule gave us only two days—the time it takes most parties just to make the approach and exit. We knew we’d have to light a fire unde...
FALL ON ROCK—INADEQUATE BELAY (INCLUDING NO KNOT IN THE END OF THE CLIMBING ROPE), NO HARD HATCalifornia, Tahquitz Rock, WhodunitOn May 23, my partner and I had just arrived at the base of Whodunit (5.9) about 9:00 a.m. A female belayer (c. 25) wa...
Yugoslav Climbs in the Yazgulem Glacier Area, Pamir. Our group of 14 climbed in the central Pamir from the same camp as Polish, Czechoslovakian and Soviet climbers during the second half of July and the beginning of August. In spite of relatively ...