In Memoriam AAJ
John Dupuy Graham, 1896-1981

JOHN DUPUY GRAHAM1896-1981John D. (Jack) Graham was one of the most vigorous members of the American Alpine Club. Although he began his hiking and mountaineering in 1927, he did the major number of his climbs after he had passed the age of fifty. ...


Book Reviews AAJ
H.W. Tilman: The Seven Mountain-Travel Books

H. W. Tilman: The Seven Mountain-Travel Books. Diadem Books, Ltd., London; The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1983. 896 pages, black and white photographs, maps. £14.95/$30.00.This book does not belong in a mountaineer’s library, it belongs on the bedside...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Summary of Activities

Summary of activities. Livingston Island is a rugged mountain massif, home to the highest point of the South Shetland Islands, off the northwestern tip of the Peninsula. It is also the location of a number of scientific research stations from diff...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahaul, Peak 6111m. Ascent

Peak 6111m, Ascent. An Indian expedition led by Jyotrimay Dutta made an ascent of Peak 6111m in August. This peak is situated near Baralacha La, to the north of Suraj Tal. The team set up Base Camp on August 20 at 4870 meters and Camp I at 5330 me...


Feature Article AAJ
The North Wall of Mount Edith Cavell

The North Wall of Mount Edith CavellYvon ChouinardMount Edith Cavell, in Jasper National Park, rises on its north side a full 4000 feet above its base. Even in normal years its cliffs are plastered with ice and snow. For Dan Doody and me it stood ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, Winter Attempt, 1990

Pumori, Winter Attempt, 1990. South Tiroleans led by Anton Stocker attempted to climb Pumori by the normal southeast face route but they could get no higher than 6750 meters, which they reached on January 22, 1990.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park

FALL ON ROCKOregon, Smith Rock State ParkOn Sunday morning, November 4, Jim Anglin (55) was descending into the Lower Gorge by a Fourth Class climbers’ way at the southeast end of Smith Rock State Park when he lost his footing and fell about 100 f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, The Environs of Silver Star

The Environs of Silver Star. Three separate climbing trips were made the summer of 1952 to the granitic wonderland around Mt. Silver Star, one of the highest peaks in the Chelan-Methow region, harboring the most eastern glacier in the state of Was...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Maestri-Egger Route Attempt, Domo Blanco and Cerro Doblado

Cerro Torre, Maestri-Egger Route Attempt, Domo Blanco and Cerro Doblado. From April 2 to June 17, Gerold Dünser, Toni Ponholzer and I were based at the Bridwell Camp, hoping to climb the Maestri-Egger route on Cerro Torre. We stocked supplies at t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram

Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram. Last summer (1959) our Army Mountaineering Association sponsored an expedition to the Karakoram. The object was to introduce new people to the area and to train them...


Feature Article AAJ
The East Buttress of Mount McKinley

The East Buttress of Mount McKinley William A. Read Mount McKinley, or Denali, a far more deserving title, had for each of us been a long kindled ambition. Through the years most of us had been involved in some preparation to climb the mountain ...

| Keywords
| Published 1963 | Author William Read


Feature Article AAJ
Chimborazo and Monja Grande

Chimborazo and Monja GrandeJ. Richard HechtelTHREE attempts on Iliniza, the shakedown peak for our expedition, had failed and no wonder—in a half a week its two summits had been visible for a total of fifteen minutes. The rock faces of the north s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Navlikin and Malitskovo Glaciers, First Ascents

Navlikin and Malitskovo glaciers, first ascents. At the start of September our ISM expedition made the now-familiar trip via Naryn to the Kokshaal-Too and established base camp at the delightful lake below the west side of the Navlikin Glacier. Th...


Book Reviews AAJ
Un Uomo va Sui Monti

Un Uomo va Sut Monti, by Giorgio Brunner. Bologna: Edizione Alfa, 1957. 499 pages; ills.; drawings. Price 1500 lire.This is a long and unusual book about mountains by a man who cares for them passionately. Giorgio Brunner is an engineer from Tries...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-721973NumberTotalNumberTotalGeographicalofPersonsofPersonsDistrictsAccidentsDeathsInvolvedAccidentsDeathsInvolvedCanadaAlberta502065101British Columbia7324105424Yukon Territory9822000Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic112000Practice Cliffs11...


Accident Reports ANAM
Protection Pulled When Weighted — Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

PROTECTION PULLED WHEN WEIGHTED - FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 26, Michael Schmoelzer (52) and Ritchie Edelsbacher (44), both experienced climbers from Austria, were in their third day of an ascent of The Nose (3...


Feature Article AAJ
Ruwenzori, 1951

Ruwenzori, 1951Ray GarnerCAIRO does not seem to be a logical place to start a climbing expedition, but that is where this one began. I had just spent four and a half months travelling the length of Egypt, doing the field production for a film on t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Peaks above Chong Kumdan and Aq Tash Glaciers

Peaks Above Chong Kumdan and Aq Tash Glaciers. Our members were Arun Samant, Muslim Contractor, Monesh Devjani, Vijay Kothari, Ashwin Popat and I as leader. We visited the last two major glaciers in the Eastern Karakoram and climbed peaks northeas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, Southwest Ridge

Pumori, Southwest Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Philippe and Marie Odile Bernardin, Alain Boissy, Jean Clemenson, Philippe de Nuncques, Alain Robert, Gérard Siguèle, my wife Claudine and me as leader. The southwest ridge route, which compa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, K7, Attempt on Southwest Pillar; BC Tower, Possible First Ascent; Badal Wall, Attempt

K7, attempt on southwest pillar; BC Tower, possible first ascent; Badal Wall, attempt. A team of Slovak climbers visited the Charakusa Valley from June 11 to July 31. Over three days in late June, Gabriel Cmarik, Jan Sofranko, and Viliam Sujan att...