Tirich Mir West III. Swiss made the second ascent of Tirich Mir West III (c. 7400 meters or 24,279 feet), following shortly after French climbers, whose fixed ropes permitted a rapid ascent up the steep, difficult route. Base Camp was set up on Ju...
FALL ON ROCK – INADEQUATE BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATIONWyoming, Lander, Sinks Canyon, Scud WallChelsea Jackson (20) was sport climbing on the Scud Wall in Sinks Canyon on June 21 when this incident occurred. She had recently met her climbing partners, G...
A.A.C., New York Section. The New York Section offers its 200-odd members a diversity of activities including lectures, outings, an annual dinner and other social events. In 1987 members received invitations to six lectures followed by a social ho...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL INTO CREVASSE, HYPOTHERMIA, NO ICE AXES USED TO PREVENT ROPE CUTTING THROUGH SNOWWashington, Mount Shuksan, Fisher ChimneysOn July 7, 1992, at 1600, a nine person party was descending Mount Shuksan via Hel...
GILBERT J. ROBERTS, M.D.1934-2000Gil Roberts, a fine expedition mountaineer from the 1950s and 1960s, died on July 15, 2000, in Berkeley, California, from cancer at the age of 66. Gil dealt with death in the same uncompromising way he dealt with t...
Gorilla Monsoon. John Long, Chockstone Press, Denver, 1989. 177 pages. $12.95.In the eighteen largely autobiographical narratives in Gorilla Monsoon, John Long creates himself as a character: daring, exuberant, relentless in pursuit of experience,...
Modem Snow & Ice Techniques, by Bill March. Manchester, Cicerone Press: 1973. 76 pages 7 photographs. $3.00.This is the best manual on ice-climbing technique to hit print since the technical ice revolution began in the mid-sixties. Ten years a...
Kwangde Nup (6,035m), northeast face, Between Sun and Shadow (to 5,910m). From October 19 to 21 Martin Klestinec and I climbed a new line on the northeast face of Kwangde Nup, immediately right of the spur followed in 1989 by Alan Kearney, solo. W...
Guest of the Soviets, by Joyce Dunsheath. London: Constable & Co., Ltd. 1959. 183 pages, illus. Price 18s.This book is chiefly interesting to the reviewer, who himself visited the Soviet Union and the Caucasus in 1930, for the changes that hav...
The Catenary Ridge of LoganDonald Schmechel and James Given, Yale Mountaineering ClubOF THE big Alaskan and Yukon peaks, Mount Logan offers the largest number of unclimbed routes. Only four of the many route possibilities on Logan had been done be...
St. Elias’ East RidgeMalcolm MooreWE took off from Yakutat in a Cessna 180 and climbed through broken clouds, heading for Mount St. Elias. Four of us were squeezed in with packs, ropes, food, hardware, and as we droned toward the incredible St. El...
Memphis Mountaineers. Despite the lack of local climbing resources, the Memphis Mountaineers enjoyed a productive year. The 1991 membership of 51 included 33 regular members residing in the Memphis, Tennessee, area, six honorary members and 12 ass...
Mount Hubbard, Attempt on West Ridge. A five-man Italian expedition unsuccessfully attempted to climb the west ridge of Mount Hubbard, which rises almost 8000 feet to the summit of the peak. After being delayed by weather, they were flown from Gul...
In autumn, Peter Ackroyd, Sam McClary, and I hoped to make the first ascent of Tsartse on the east side of Hidden Valley, ca 10km northeast of Dhaulagiri. This peak is clearly visible from the Muktinath-Jomsom trail. Despite close proximity to the...
FALL ON ICE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On September 7, Ann Wild (20) was guiding four people up Mt. Rainier. They were on the Ingraham Glacier around the 13,000-foot level. According to witnesses in the guided party ahead of this one, the second per...
SLIP ON SNOW Alaska, Mt. McKinleySang-Don Ko (30), Ii-Kyo Lee (24), Hun-Kyu Park (30), and Un-Young Kim (45) were members of the Korean Mount McKinley Expedition. Before the start of their climb they joined forces with Harry Maringas and Yung Chu ...
N. Wing of the Columbia Group. This note calls attention to a recently issued reedition (dated 1947) of the Jasper Park South Sheet (1936 : 3 mi. to 1 in.), on which the central area, blank in the 1942 reprint, has been completed in contours. No n...
(3) Fresh field CroupWatershed Peak North of Pangman Peak, 9600 ft. This is the highest point between Pangman Peak: and Bush pass. First ascent, July 5. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, D. Duncan, A. Megrew, P. Kaufmann. From Freshfield tongue by wa...
FALL ON ICE/SNOW, UNROPED, POOR ROUTE CHOICE, HASTEAlberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount AthabascaOn August 29 at 0500, F.W. (43), S.C. (34), and U.T. (37) set out to climb the North Face of Mount Athabasca. They reached the summit at 1730 and started...
Chearoco and Quelluani. Our expedition was composed of 24 people. To avoid being shut up in Base Camp to acclimatize, we spent five days at 10,000 feet in Cuzco before arriving at La Paz. There we were amazed to find that some of the boxes which w...