Northwest Twin Spire, Southeast Face. On July 28, Dave Adams and I climbed a new route on Northwest Twin Spire in the Chilliwack’s. From the northwest edge of the 7700-foot col between the northwest and southeast spires we scrambled up a prominent...
TABLE IIAccidentsGeographical Districts1947-19571958Atlantic States—North254South40 Central20 Colorado520Utah & New Mexico80 Wyoming354 Montana & Idaho80Accidents1947-19571958Arizona & Nevada50California456...
Temple Crag, North Peak, The Crystal Way, Previously Unreported. The Crystal Way (IV 5.10a) provides a day-long adventure up the 1,500-foot wall of North Peak (upper buttress) on semi-difficult ground. Scott Scully and I climbed the route in June,...
Ascents in 1965. A number of climbs were made in 1965 which were not reported in time to be included in the A.A.J., 1966. In Garhwal Ganesh Parbat (21,430 feet) was climbed on June 16 by an Indian Police expedition led by Shivraj Singh. The leader...
P 10,999 and P 10,000, North of Regal Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. The Alpine Club Cairn expedition was landed at Green Hill and ascended the Nabesna Glacier to establish Base Camp at 6800 feet five miles northwest of Regal Mountain. From a high ...
Middle Fork, Tule River Area. In the winter of 1980-81, Patrick Paul, Gary Kunkel, Randy Powers and I made the first ascent of the “Powerhouse Wall”, just south of the powerhouse on the Wishon Fork of the Middle Fork of the Tule River, east of Spr...
Penny-Nickel Arête. On April 7 Kep Stone and I climbed a new route on the wall to the left of the Penny-Nickel Arête. The route starts several hundred feet left of the arête and leads up cracks and ramps, angling slightly to the left for seven pit...
Spanish Reconnaissance, Huaytapallana and Vilcanota. Angel Anglada and Miguel Gómez Sánchez made the third ascent of Lasuntay (18,964 feet) in the Cordillera de Huaytapallana on August 8. In the Cordillera Vilcanota they tried the Campa peaks but ...
Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. Between the Grand Arch and Easter Tower lies a four-pitch mixed aid and free climb route on Halloween Buttress, first climbed on October 29 by Curtis Stout, Eric Bjornstad and me. Thirty-four pitons were used, and a fr...
New Routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. In July Charlie Logan and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Spearhead. The right side of the face is a triangular plate, laced with a spider’s web of cracks, and with a hooked top. Our route...
Kun and P 6300 above Phirtse Pass. Five German climbers, led by Ludwig Greissl, and a Sherpa climbed Kun on August 19. A second group of nine, led by Franz Klement, got to the top on September 2. Two of a group in the Zanskar climbed an unnamed pe...
Peaks in the Azufre area. Between January 26 and February 9, climbers of the Asociación de Andinismo de O’Higgins made the following first ascents in the Azufre group, located 40 miles east of San Fernando in Central Chile: Alto del Azufre, 4550 m...
Mercedario, East Face, 1978. On December 19, 1978 we established Base Camp at 15,100 feet in the Río Blanco valley. On December 25 Theo Dowbenka, Sebastian Hohenreiter, Rudolf Friedhuber, Dr. Joachim Kayser and I climbed unroped to “El Caballito,”...
Makalu, Solo Winter Attempt. Frenchman Ivan Ghirardini attempted first the very difficult west buttress of Makalu in winter. After a first sortie, on January 7 he bivouacked at 19,350 feet and on January 8 at 22,000 feet. On January 9 he reached 2...
Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur variation. The sun is setting, and the cold is creeping down the Kahiltna. It is May 16, and Eamonn Walsh and I have just been spit out of the last plane of the day at Kahiltna base camp. We stare up at the Moonflower Bu...
Kakhari and other peaks Northern Kohistan. From the roadhead at Gabral, A. Cormack, leader, R. Metcalfe, J. Peck, Dr. I. Piper and I walked up the Gabral valley for 25 miles and set up Base Camp at 11,000 feet. From there another camp was put in a...
Out of Mosquito Flats, and past Ruby Lake, on September 26 Miguel Carmona and I established the East Corner (IV 5.9) on the steep Ruby Wall (east wall) of Ruby Peak. The route climbs eight pitches to a summit where the East Arête and Left Ea...
Bethartoli South, Mrigthuni, and Attempts on Bethartoli Himal. Bethar- toli Himal was attempted by an expedition led by Professor Ramesh G. Desai and sponsored by the Climbers Club, Bombay. Others were Harish B. Kapadia, Jagdish C. Nanavati, Dr. P...
Winter traverse of the range; Mt. Marcus Baker, South Ridge-Knik variation. During the summer of 2003 we started talking about a winter traverse of the Chugach Range, from Prince William Sound to the road system. If we encountered favorable condit...
Skilbrum, Ascent and Tragedy. A 17-member Japanese expedition made the second ascent of Skilbrum (7360m) via either the original Southwest Face route or the South Face (it is unclear which) on August 17. Eight climbers made it back to base camp on...