California, Yosemite (4)—On June 9, 1956 an accident occurred on the lower part of the Royal Arches on a pitch known as the “Bear Hug,” an open, high-angle chimney that is climbed mainly by friction holds. The party was on a standard and frequentl...
Tirsuli West Attempt. Roger Payne and Julie Ann Clyma attempted this last 7000-meter virgin peak (7035 meters) in the Kumaon via the west ridge, reaching 6300 meters on June 12. They traversed two ridges to reach the west ridge. The route ahead wa...
New Zealand Expedition to Mount Everest. There were eight members of the New Zealand Everest Expedition: Keith Woodford, leader, Robert Cunningham, deputy leader, Michael Andrews, Richard Price, Fr. Michael Mahoney, Michael Brown, Nicolas Banks an...
Pico Los Portones and Púlpito Negro, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. The most impressive mountain in this range, Pico Los Portones (also called Picacho and San Pablín Norte), had been ascended for the first and only time in 1959 by two Cambridge Universit...
The Mountaineers of Seattle are planning to hold their twenty- fifth annual outing in Mount Garibaldi Park, British Columbia, July 26 to August 10, 1931. A permanent camp will be established in Black Tusk Meadows. This region of great interest was...
Veiled Peak, South Ridge. The belief that the small Veiled Peak held no interesting unclimbed routes was shattered by the ascent of the South ridge by William Buckingham and Margaret Pevear on August 17. This distinct ridge was approached from the...
Lhakpari, First Ski Descent. An expedition guided by Andy Broom (Out There Trekking) reached the summit at 11 a.m., September 22, via the west ridge. All skiing was randonée except Philip Ponder, who made the trip on a telemark system with three-p...
FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew York, ShawangunksJohn Mallory was climbing Transcontinental Nailway (5.10) when he took a 30-foot fall. He had placed a #1 and #2 Friend for protection, but the force of the fall caused the posts—and consequently...
Brammah I, Second Ascent and Tragedy. The members of the expedidition were Paul Belcher, Duncan Nicholson, Jon Scott and me. We began the four-day walk from Kishtwar to Base Camp up a good path beside the Munab River and then branched off up the N...
El Dorado Peak, North Couloir. The north face of El Dorado Peak is a hazardous enigma. In October, Dan Cauthorn and I—carrying plenty of noodles and tuna packed in oil—emerged from the depths of the Cascade forest empire to investigate this hidden...
California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Owens. On 12 December Donald Gibson (19) and a companion were attempting to climb the east ridge of Mt. Owens (class 4). One had tried twice before and apparently had some knowledge of belaying. The victim refused a ...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 11, 1983, Carol Moyer (28) fell about 100 meters to her death from the fourth pitch of Tangerine Trip on El Capitan.According to her climbing partner, Raymond Kovac, she was cleaning the...
Nanda Ghunti. A 13-man expedition from Calcutta climbed Nanda Ghunti (6309 meters, 20,700 feet) on May 18 when Pranesh Charkra- borty, Sukhendu Mukherjee and Sherpas Lakpa and Dawa reached the summit to make the third ascent. Four members, Nemai B...
FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IshbelOn July 13, 1985, two climbers were descending moderate slopes on the northeast face of Mt. Ishbel. The terrain consists of scree slopes broken by short cliffs and slabs. The cl...
Jogin I and III. Our team was Shrikant Oka, Anil Kumar, Ashok Raj- derkar, Sanjay Borole, Suhas Risbud and I as leader. From Gangotri we went up the Kedar Ganga Gorge to Base Camp at 15,200 feet at Akhari Bhuj-Kedar Kharak. We set up Camps I, II a...
Incredible Hulk. Greg Donaldson closed his description of the west face of the Incredible Hulk with the sentence, “So the summit is still waiting along with a thousand other possibilities.” (A.A.J., 1971, 17:2, p 353.) Note that this is no longer ...
In April 2011 I returned for a second visit to the Johns Hopkins glacier basin in the southern part of the Fairweather Range. In 2009 Guy McKinnon and I had been the first climbers to access the main glacier and had made two ascents. This time Vau...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Roger Massardier, the leader of this French expedition, broke both his legs very early in the climb while on moraine just above Base Camp and so there were only three members with no climbing Sherpas attempting an uncli...
P 19,580, Patrasi Himal. The Anglo-Welsh Expedition consisted of Edwin Hammond, leader, Dewi Jones, John Cheesmond, John Vincent, Dr. Ieuan Jones and me as deputy leader. We were to make an attempt on the main peak of the Patrasi Himal (21,742 fee...
New Peaks in the Atuel Valley. My primary goal was to collect local lore in the mountain valleys of southern Mendoza but I did have a chance to enter a district unvisted by climbers near the sources of the Arroyos (creeks) Malo and Blanco and east...