In Memoriam AAJ
Kermith F. Ross, 1910-1986

KERMITH F. ROSS 1910-1986Kermith Ross, known to some friends as “Lefty”, died of cancer on December 23 in Denver. He began climbing about 1948, in Colorado, and also climbed extensively in Wyoming and California. He participated in expeditions to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, North Cascades, Slesse Mountain, East Face

Slesse Mountain, East Face. Slesse Mountain (8,002') is a dark fang of granodiorite standing in a spectacular alpine environment. Dave Edgar and I were privileged to make the first ascent of the awesome east face in July, 1997. The route (VI 5.9+ ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Lupghar Sar East Attempt and Ascents of Dut Sar and Chikkorin Sar, 1993

Lupghar Sar East Attempt and Ascents of Dut Sar and Chikkorin Sar, 1993. Piercarlo Poletti, his wife Daniela Vanzini, Dino Cazzaniga, Riccardo Verderio, Claudio Ghezzi and I as leader hoped to climb virgin Lupghar Sar East (c. 7200 meters, 23,622 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P 11,300, West Face, West Fork of Ruth Glacier

P 11,300, West Face, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. From May 6 to 9, John Bauman and I climbed the 3600-foot-high west face of P 11,300. The most prominent feature of the route is a 900-foot-long, 12-foot-wide couloir of 65° to 75°, which has several ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot. On July 16, John Reisinger (25) and Gary Smith (18) had completed an ascent on Mt. Teewinot and were descending, unroped, via a snow-filled couloir. Reisinger began to slide out of control and before h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean—Argentine Patagonia, Paine Towers, North Tower and Attempt on the Central Tower, 1984

Paine Towers, North Tower and Attempt on the Central Tower, 1984. In January and February, 1984, the Club Alpino Italiano, Chilean Section, climbed in the Paine Towers. On January 28 Ms. Claude Batres and Karl Huber climbed Paine Chico or Almirant...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Dickey, South Pillar, Crime of the Century; and Mt. Bradley, Northeast Spur, Welcome to Alaska

Ruth Gorge, Mt. Dickey, south pillar, Crime of the Century; and Mt. Bradley, northeast spur, Welcome to Alaska. Our group flew to Ruth Gorge on May 4 with Doug Geeting Aviation (they were impressed by the amount of food we took!). We were nine mem...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, North Palisade, Putterman Couloir

North Palisade, Putterman Couloir. On July 2, Cameron Bums and I ascended what we believe to be a previously unclimbed couloir on the west side of North Palisade. On this face are three distinctive white cliffs. The original west-side route, first...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Chihuahua, Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, El Gigante, La Conjura do los Necios, Second Ascent

El Gigante, La Conjura de los Necios, second ascent. In May Slovenians Tanja Grmovsek (formerly Tanja Rojs) and Andrej Grmovsek took a prehoneymoon trip to El Gigante, where they repeated the 2001 German route, La Conjura de los Necios (The Conspi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Attempt

Broad Peak Attempt. After reaching Base Camp at 4850 meters on August 4, we had five days of snowfall. From August 10 to 14 we ferried supplies to 6000 meters and kept on to the summit ridge at 7950 meters, about 100 meters from the top before the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Gurla Mandhata

Gurla Mandhata. A Viennese student, Herbert Tichy, disguised as an Indian pilgrim with two Indian friends and Kitar, a porter of the last Nanga Parbat expedition, made a trip to the holy mountain, Kailas, and attempted the climb of Gurla Mandhata ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Argentina, Cerro de la Aguada, Ascent and Historical Note

Cerro de la Aguada, ascent and historical note. A group of Argentinean climbers of the Club Andino Mar del Plata and Janajman (Salta) ascended this 5,810m volcano that is near the massive Antofalla (6,409m). The ascent commemorated the 100th anniv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Odoray via the Northeast Ridge

Odoray via the Northeast Ridge. The northeast ridge of Odoray is the steep righthand skyline of the mountain when viewed from the Canadian Alpine Club hut in the O’Hara Meadow. Don Morrison and I set out from the cabin about 6:00 A.M. on July 19, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, IsA.A.C., South Face, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion

Isaac, South Face, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion. Over the Memorial Day weekend, Jeff Lowe and I climbed the crack system which follows the east side of the south face of Isaac. Two dirty, bushy pitches marred the otherwise clean route. Descent wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, P 11,920 ("The Nameless Pyramid")

P 11,920 (“The Nameless Pyramid”). In October, Richard Swayze and I approached this formation intent on repeating the original route on the east face. We knew that the normal route followed a very prominent crack several hundred feet to a huge hor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Himachal Pradesh, Peak 6250M, Ascent

Peak 6250m, Ascent. A British expedition led by Graham Boswell climbed an unnamed 6250- meter peak in August. This peak is situated toward the north of Chandra tal and is near point Tagne (5870m), which is marked on the map. The team turned east f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori Tragedy

Pumori Tragedy. An expedition of eight Americans and Australians hoped to make the winter ascent of Pumori by its southeast face. Australian George Curry fell and was killed on the first day of the attempt, December 28, when he was still only at 5...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kunbhakarna East Attempt

Kumbhakarna East Attempt. To make the first ascent of the extremely steep east face of Kumbhakarna (Jannu) has been a Slovene project since 1991. This autumn’s three-man party was the fourth Slovene group to plan its ascent. But Dušan Debelak and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Whitney Portal Buttress, Sartoris

Whitney Portal Buttress, Sartoris. This route lies on Whitney Portal Buttress a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Callis route. It was climbed in August by Steve Eddy, Alan Bartlett and me, and starts in the only continuous left-facing crack-fl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Range, Mount Alverstone, West Buttress

Mount Alverstone, West Buttress. It was reported that Bill Pilling and Carl Diedrich climbed the 6000-foot west buttress of Mount Alverstone in seven days of climbing, five on the ascent and two on the descent. Their route was 80 percent ice split...