Dunagiri. Polish students led by Grzegorz Benke repeated the original Swiss route and made what is probably the seventh ascent of Dunagiri (7066 meters, 23,183 feet). Benke and Andrzej Hartmann reached the summit on August 18 after nights in camps...
Ruby Wall. In September, Malcolm Ives and I added a third new route to this fine wall, “Wide Sargasso Sea.” Our climb takes a direct line to the summit, staying right of Galen Rowell’s 1982 route until the summit dihedral. Eight pitches with a del...
FALL ON SCREE SLOPE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tower of BabelOn June 8, 1985, three scramblers had ascended the Tower of Babel at Moraine Lake by the trail up the back side. They decided to return by the normal descent route, the scr...
Barnaj II, Padar, Kishtwar. Our expedition comprised Jim Curran, Tony Riley, Bob Toogood, John Yates, liaison officer Hanuman Suthar and me. Toogood fell ill and had to return home from Massu. Late processing of our application in Delhi held us up...
North Face in Winter by Toni Hiebeier. Translated from the German Im Banne der Spinne by Hugh Merrick. New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1963. 121 pages, 21 photographs. Price $3.95.Hiebeler’s account of the first winter ascent of the Eigerwand is a...
Manda. Our members were Masatosi Sasaki, Tomoyuki Sogabe, Takanori Sasaki, Hiroyuki Kawaguchi and I. We set up Base Camp on May 29 at 13,775 feet at Kedarganga Kharak. We set up Camp I on June 2 on the Manda Glacier at 16,400 feet and Camp II on J...
Two Mountains and a River, by H. W. Tilman. xii + 232 pages, with plates and maps. Cambridge University Press, 1949. Price, $3.75.It is probable that if Tilman were landed on the moon he would succeed in penetrating its least accessible places, li...
Domeland. One of Domeland’s most prominent rock formations is a large crag with a smokestack tower on its south end. It was dubbed Steamship Rock by Jim Stoddard and me after we made the first ascent of its east face in November 1970. This is a fo...
Escape on Skis, by Brian Meredith. 8 vo., pp. 200, with illustrations. New York: Dodge Press, 1938. Price $3.00.As one schusses through the pages of the snows of Canada and Switzerland one catches the idea of a technique which is never mentioned i...
English Coast and Eastern Ellsworth Land, 1984-5. On December 11, a seven-person U.S. Geological Survey party, including Pete Rowley, leader, Karl Kellogg, Tom Laudon, Dave Lidke, Mike O’Neill, Janet Thomson and me, flew from McMurdo Station to Fi...
University of Wyoming Outing Club. Last spring the activities of the club, under the able leadership of Gary Pouch, included several noteworthy events. Among them was the second winter ascent of the Medicine Bow Diamond by J. Halfpenny, T. Warren,...
On October 10 local Anchorage climber John Kelley and I walked to the north face of Mt. Yukla, via Icicle Creek, for some early season alpine climbing. We climbed a previously tried line that shared its start with two of John’s established routes,...
Ama Dablam West Face. Our expedition was composed of Swiss Ruedi Homberger, Christian Jäggi, Willi Kuhn and Franco Giorgetta and Czechoslovaks Josef Rybicka, Michal Brunner, Jirí Havel, Miroslav Mžourek, Karel Jerhot, Günter Koch and me as leader....
Museum at Lourdes. Visitors to the Pyrenees, when they pass through Lourdes, should not fail to visit the museum in the Chateau-Fort. Maintained since 1920 by the Touring Club of France, it is the country’s best regional museum. Besides many exhib...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the summer the club conducted its 14th western outing, with Jack Weisman as chairman, in the Grenadier range in southwestern Colorado. Base camp was in Elk Creek Valley and was attended by 56 people. Ascents wer...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Cascade Section had an active year in 1979. Our Activities Committee organized a slide show by the well- known British climber Chris Bonington with over 700 people attending. A scheduled slide and movie presentation by...
North summit of North Tower of Paine, free ascent. On February 17,2002, Allison Pennings and I climbed a new route on the west face of the north summit of the North Tower of Paine. Our route follows the route Adrenalina Vertical for two pitches be...
Dhaulagiri V. Dr. Tesuo Matsumura was the field leader of the Kyusho University Alpine Club expedition to Dhaulagiri V (24,992 feet). While attempting the south ridge, Fukashi Chijiwa, Yukio Asano and two Sherpas were on October 5 swept down 2000 ...
Aconcagua, 1989-1990 Season. A total of 353 expeditions registered last season to climb Aconcagua: 81 from Argentina; 77, United States; 39, Germany; 30, Spain; 24, Japan; 23, France; and 11, Switzerland. With less than 10 were Brazil, Bulgaria, C...
Rimo Group. An expedition of 25 Indian Army Engineers was led by Captain K.S. Sooch. From August 11 to 13 they divided up among seven different peaks and climbed them all. The highest one climbed was P 7159 (23,488 feet). The first ascent was made...