North, Central, and South Towers of Paine, solo link-up. On February 16, 2002, I awoke in Campamento Japanese at 2:00 a.m., got caffeinated, and departed camp at 3:00 a.m. I intended to make a solo link-up of the Towers of Paine. With just over a ...
Putha Hiunchuli. The Japanese Zao Alpine Club had six members, including one woman and was led by Toyomi Oishi. They had plans to ski down the whole mountain. After establishing Camp III on April 18, they reached 18,735 feet, but bad weather put a...
Aconcagua National Park. Plaza de Mulas (14,000 feet), the Standard Base Camp for the normal route, now has radio service with three daily contacts with Mendoza and Puente del Inca. Climbers can now radio their needs directly to Puente del Inca. T...
P 7428, Saltoro Group. An Indian Army expedition of 54 members was led by Colonel Prem Chand. They established two camps on the Siachen Glacier before turning up a glacier north of the Saltoro group. They then placed three camps higher. Three clim...
Cerro Pereyra, first ascent; Aguja de L’S, The Thaw’s not Houlding Wright. Heeding the barrage of ice blocks and rocks cascading down, Leo Houlding, Cedar Wright, and I abandoned our plans for the Maestri-Egger, and my compadres steered me toward ...
Illiniza Sur and Ayapungo. The Ecuadorians José Bergés and Marco Cruz made the first ascent of the steep south face of Illiniza Sur (5266 meters, 17,278 feet) on Oct. 12. A cold bivouac had to be spent at a height of about 16,000 feet. The standar...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, FALLING ROCKIdaho, Sawtooth MountainsOn July 2, 1989, Louis Stur (65) fell to his death from an unnamed mountain nearBaron Peak. He was climbing with a friend, Frank Kreusi (70). Here are some excerpts fro...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - NO HEADLAMPSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineOn January 26, a novice climber (44) and his partner started up Odell Gully around 3:00 p.m. on Saturday afternoon. After com...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our original objective was a new route on Nanga Parbat, the route attempted by Mummery on the Diamir Face. Persistent bad weather and observation of the numerous avalanches on the lower part of the face made us decide to...
Climber’s Guide to the Olympic Mountains, Olympic Mountain Rescue. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1972. 225 pp., 18 photographs, 17 sketches, 4 maps, $4.95.With the publication of this attractive volume, the Olympic range is given its first treatment ...
South Face of Symmetry Spire, Tetons. The Teton Range, in general, and Symmetry Spire, in particular, have been so thoroughly climbed in recent years that one might think that nothing important remains to be done; prior to 1956, there were nine di...
New Mexico—Devil’s Thumb, West Face of Sandia Mountains: On 8 August 1953, Hugh DeWitt (23) and three companions were climbing on the Devil’s Thumb the last 1000 ft. of which required the use of ropes. At about 300 ft. from the summit they decided...
Scientific Programs on the Wyoming Everest Expedition. Expedition members participated in valuable scientific programs including atmospheric chemistry sampling; geological research pertaining to the uplift history of the Everest region; demonstrat...
On June 26, 1974, Blair Mitten (21), an experienced climber who was a student in the Assistant Guides Course sponsored by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, was leading a mixed class 5 and easier pitch on the south side of Mt. Victoria. ...
SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount DeltaformOn August 21, 1993, K.V. and R.P. were doing the traverse of the Ten Peaks from west to east. While descending the east ridge of Mount Deltaform (3425 meters) unroped, K.V. slipped on a...
New Peaks for 2002. The Government of Nepal officially announced the opening of 103 additional peaks to foreign expeditions. The announcement came on Christmas Eve 2001 and took effect from March 1, 2002. Unlike the 10 peaks brought on to the list...
Gasherbrum I. Our expedition was composed of Kim Byong-Man, Song Yul-Heoun, Ryu Sung-tae, Yoon Sang-Ho, Park Hyeok-Sang, Cha Yong-Suk, Lee Suk-Gyu, Yoon Suk-Min, Park Myun-Gu, Ju Chung-Ick and me as leader. From June 4 to 30, the weather was good ...
Bhagirathi enchainment attempt. Americans Jonathan Copp and Dylan Taylor were attempting the ambitious project of an enchainment from Bhagirathi III (6,454m) to Bhagirathi II (6,512m) over the smaller unclimbed summit of Bhagirathi IV. They planne...
In This Short Span: A Mountaineering Memoir, by Michael Ward. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd, 1972. 304 pages, 40 photographs, 5 maps. £3.75 (about $9.00)By his own account Michael Ward was the first British climber seriously to advocate an approach ...
P 6193 Attempt. In late August, a Slovene expedition attempted the west face of shapely P 6193 (20,320 feet), which lies above the Gangotri Glacier southeast of Bhagirathi II. Janez Kešnar, leader, and Marjan Kovac reached 6000 meters but bad weat...