Dorado Needle, West Buttress, 1985. In October 1985, Dan Cauthorn and I found our way to Dorado Needle. Our route starts in a recess to the right of the buttress proper and ascends a wall just left of a chimney for the first pitch. Several more mo...
California, Sierra Nevada, Matterhorn Peak. On 11 October Craig Williams (41), Bob Bowen (34), and Clarke Smith (35), all experienced mountaineers, were descending on a sunny day from a successful and uneventful ascent of Matterhorn Peak. This inv...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 18, 1983, Robert Muhnicki (28) was leading the tenth pitch on the Northwest Face of Half Dome when a large rock flake he was on broke away. He fell onto his climbing partner, Toivo Kodas. The roc...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers Climbing Committee sponsored a number of programs to serve all levels of climbing competence in the club. The best known of these is the Basic Climbing Course which enrolled 227 students and graduated 129. Gradua...
Dunagiri Attempt. Austrians Wolfgang Stefan, Peter Pavlag, and Oswald Duba and Swiss Hans Zebrowski left Reni on May 3 and ascended the Rishi Ganga to establish Base Camp near the Ramani Glacier on the 8th. Duba had to return to civilization becau...
Bear Creek Spire. In February, Bill Kerwin and I made the first winter ascent of this peak via a new route on the south face. Starting on slabby rock uphill of Rowell’s routes, we took a direct line to the summit through the upper steep headwall a...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn July 11, 1985, two climbers departed early on the normal route. Usual ascent speed was maintained until the climbers moved onto the steeper south face where difficulties increa...
Brammah’s Wife Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Richard Hester, Hugh Thornbery, Don Mabbs, Chris Parkin, Peter Blackburn and me as leader. We wanted to climb Brammah’s Wife (17,973 feet) and the Eiger (18,088 feet) alpine-style without fixe...
Le Diable Des Dolomites by Tita Piaz. Translated by Felix Germain. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1963. 268 pages, 20 illustrations. 18 francs.A translation of the autobiography of the guide Tita Piaz, who flourished in the Dolomites in early decades of the 1...
P 6568 (“Manda South”) and Jogin I. From Bheronghoti it took Peter Athans, Maggie Fox, Peter O’Neil, Rachel Cox and me three days to march up the precipitous Kedar Ganga to reach Base Camp at 15,500 feet on the slopes west of the Kedar Tal (lake) ...
Travellers in Switzerland, by G. R. de Beer, xviii + 584 pages, with 23 full-page illustrations. Oxford University Press, 1949. Price, $8.00.This is a biographical encyclopaedia of travellers in Switzerland from Willa of Ivrea, who crossed the San...
Crown Point, Peeler Pillar. Near the Twin Lakes area to the north of Yosemite, Crown Point lies between Crown and Peeler Lakes. Rising above Peeler Lake is an impressive pillar which Geert Dijkhuis (of Holland), Larry Johnson, and I climbed on Sep...
Sagas of the Evergreens, by Frank H. Lamb. 8 vo., 359 pages with illustrations. New York : W. W. Norton Co., 1938. Price $3.50.Evergreens everywhere are the living announcement to the climber that he is approaching the mountains. Climbers, hurryin...
Jichu Drake or Tsherim Kang Tragedy. Our 13-man expedition left Italy on August 21. We were flown in a small plane of the Bhutanese Airline to Paro at 7550 feet, where we were warmly received by representatives of the Ministry of Tourism and passe...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Besides the instructional trip every Sunday to Devils Lake, 40 miles north of Madison, many of our members take frequent outings to the “Lake” and other climbing areas. During the year many new high standard multi-pi...
University Peak (14,470'), southwest spur. Kevin Ditzler and John Kelley climbed this 8,500' route in seven days, summiting on April 17. They descended the north ridge to Beaver Basin, where they waited six days for a pickup with almost no food or...
Ama Dablam. This Swiss expedition climbed Ama Dablam by the normal south-ridge route. All six members reached the summit. On October 22 leader Pierre-Antoine Hiroz, the only French member Pierre Dutrievoz and Yves Rau- sis went to the top. Four da...
The Road to Coire. This is the story of a pilgrimage which began in Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn and ended at Coire, the chief city of the canton of Grisons. The year was 1890, the time midsummer, the length of the trek some 138 miles. Fo...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The outstanding feature of recent years has been the steady, rapid increase in club membership, which has amounted to 50% within the last four years. The membership currently totals about 2800 members, of whom about 170...
A.A.C., New York Section. The slide lecture program for members and guests of the Club continued to be popular, with excellent presentations by Vern Klevenger about Yosemite wall climbing and the High Sierra, and by Arlene Blum on the ascent of An...