Trisul I Attempt. A Spanish expedition, led by L. Juan Esteben and composed of nine members, attempted the west face of Trisul (7120 meters). They established C2 at 5560 meters on August 12. No further progress was possible due to heavy rains.Hari...

Standing Rock. The first ascent of the Standing Rock was made by Layton Kor and me on October 13-15. Kor led 50 feet late in the afternoon of the first day. Next day he and Steve Komito reached a point two- thirds of the distance to the summit and...

Sorcerer Needle, East Face. In The Needles, there are a number of interesting crack systems. Seen from a distant perspective, the break in the wall on the east face of the Wizard-Sorcerer massif, appears as a “natural”. Jim Stoddard and I packed t...

Chimborazo, Descent on Skis. On March 9 the Frenchman Thierry Renard, accompanied by Ecuadorians Rafael Gómez and Manuel Santa-maría, reached the top of Chimborazo, having established camps at 15,600 and 17,700 feet. Renard descended from the summ...

Eiger North Face, Harlin Direct Route, Switzerland. Fourth Ascent (First American Ascent) (Grade VI, ED Sup): One cold October night, Alex Macintyre of England and I crept into Grindelwald just below the Eiger. It is difficult to look to the Swiss...

Dongxung is the most northerly of a duster of peaks, several more than 6,000m, that lie a short distance south of the town of Yangbajain (Yangpachen). These peaks lie south of, but close to, the southwestern end of the Nyanchen Tanglha. Only one i...

Pico Colón and Other Peaks. We entered the Sierra by way of Nabusimake (San Sebastián) in January. The Indians, who own the land around the range, gave our Venezuelan expedition permission to stay twelve days in all and charged us $10 per day. Eur...

At the spring dinner of the Harvard Mountaineering Club the following officers were elected for the term 1931-1932: President, Alden F. Megrew; Vice-President, A. B. Callender; Secretary, F. Q. Brown, Jr.; Treasurer, H. B. Washburn, Jr.

Yosemite Point, North Face. On August 4, Peter Koedt and Rich Kettler made the first climb of this short and moderate face which rises above the forks of Cascade Canyon.

Tsurup, Direct Southwest Face. The route climbed by Juan Antonio Lorenzo and me started up the southwest face the same as that climbed by Fear, Lahr, Malataux and Ridgeway in 1972, (A.A.J1973, pages 325-7) but where they traversed upwards to the l...

Lixin and Changste. It was reported that a group of Italians climbed two 7000-meter peaks last spring. Claudio Bastrntaz reached the top of Lixin Peak (7113 meters) on May 13 while his partner, Dando Pignataro, stopped at around 7000 meters. On Ma...

Front Range Panorama, edited by Louisa W. Arps and published by the Colorado Mountain Club. Price $3.75.The Panorama consists of a cardboard folder 12” x 9" which opens like a double record album to reveal two pockets. In the left pocket is one l...

Mt. Balchen, west face. In early March Michael Williams and I landed on the west side of the dry Gillam Glacier on a snow-covered gravel bar. We hiked and skied 15 miles up to the base of the west buttress of Mt. Balchen (11,140'). Above our base ...

ILLNESSNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeIn August 1981, Chris Armelagos (25) was 20 feet up the first pitch of Refuse when he went into full cardiac arrest with no spontaneous pulse or respiration. CPR was begun immediately by climbers, including EMT...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Reed's PinnacleOn September 23, Aram Marks (21) was leading Stone Groove, a one-pitch 5.10b crack at Reed’s Pinnacle. Tricia (29) was belayi...

Peaks in Barnaj and Chiring Valleys. The North of England Kishtwar Expedition made several first ascents in August and September. We had initially hoped to attempt Barnaj II from the north but inspection showed an impossible river crossing and so ...

Cutthroat Peak, East Face of North Summit, North Cascades. Joe Bajan and I on September 21 did this fine route, which is about 500 feet north of the Chouinard and Burdo routes on the main east face. We followed granite flakes just right of the obv...

California, Yosemite National Park. On 26 September while descending a boulder field with a slope of approximately 45°, Gary Leonard (25) stepped out onto a large boulder about the size of a dining room table. It tipped forward, causing him to jum...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 3, 1983, Peter Kohl (20) and climbing partner Robert Fostner were starting the first pitch of the South Face of Washington Column. Kohl, who was leading, had progressed pas...

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. All in all, 1977 was a quiet year for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club continued its interest in the Chugach Mountains, which lie at our doorstep. However, we also had members climbing in the Talkeetnas an...